Synchronisationswinkel 16V PD BRD (GELÖST) | Posts 16+

@ Autoservice - I was referring to the SSP209. It seems we are both right about that.
"@ Björn - You don't correct valve timing by changing the voltage; you adjust it by altering the relative position of the crankshaft (KW) and camshaft (NW). So, depending on the direction of the desired correction, gently rotate the crankshaft while the camshaft sprocket is loosened. In your case, one of the camshaft sprockets has the lobes for the common rail injectors slightly late, so with the camshaft fixed and the front sprocket removed, you need to rotate the crankshaft against the direction of rotation to advance the camshaft."hg
Herbert.

Even Aunt Edit makes sense, but only for the NW corner where the PD elements are located.

Autoservice wrote:

Don't act like that now... The ZR voltage is set in the specific adjustment position, not at any random location. And it must be correct at precisely that position - period. Everything else will follow from there. It doesn't matter whether the wheel is round, oval, or triangular.

ganz Deiner Meinung! Hätte ich auch sonst nie in Frage gestellt. Angefangen hatte meine Verunsicherung ja auch erst, als Du/ich festgestellt hatten, dass die Spannung nach ca. 40 Testkilometern zu hoch war (in der Absteckposition). 1 Tag später passte es dann. Daher hatte ich mir die Spannung in anderen Positionen zusätzlich angesehen, weil verunsichert. Da war ich erstaunt, das sich die Spannung bis kurz vor den Anschlag der Spannrolle ändert. DaHere's the translation:

"Like this post."

Autoservice wrote:

The rest has already been described. Why make simple things so complicated? Of course, one would not want to remove the timing chain tensioner at tax time. You only need to offset the camshafts slightly (approximately 0.5 degrees of crankshaft rotation) relative to the cam gears in the direction of rotation, or offset the cam gears accordingly against the direction of rotation. Where is the problem here? Just think logically for once.

Exactly, I had that thought as well. Thinking logically >.
I was wondering - how do I adjust both camshafts equally by approximately 0.5° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center)? both
My Herbert's explanation: "Only relevant for the northwest side, where the PD elements are located."
Is the synchronization of the other camshaft significantly less critical?

Or would it be better to have the counterweight wheels rotate in the opposite direction – then it would distribute the force evenly (via the timing belt that drives both counterweight wheels)?
I already mentioned this, but I will adjust the belt tension at the traction tower (since the crankshaft probably won't rotate along with it), and I need the counterholder T10172.

Thank you very much for your help!

Björn.

Quote:

Why my Herbert: "only makes sense for the north-west side, where the PD elements are attached." Ist die Synchronisation der anderen Nockenwelle weit weniger kritisch?

Counter question: How many hall sensors (G40) are there, and on which connectors? Also, which sensor provides the measurement value for the synchronization angle?
hg
Herbert.

Hello Herbert,

It's a Hall sensor (G40) that provides the measurement for the synchronization angle. Of course, I need to investigate that; that much is clear.

I was referring to the other Northwest (direction) – wouldn't adjusting it by about 0.5 degrees be worthwhile?

B.C. wrote:

Ist die Synchronisation der anderen Nockenwelle weit weniger kritisch?

VG
Björn.

Quote:

Ist die Synchronisation der anderen Nockenwelle weit weniger kritisch?

The STG (likely referring to a specific organization or system) isn't affected by the second wave. My opinion: if it has to be done, then let's do it properly. It hardly requires much effort...

At the second Northwest station, he has no way to check anything other than confirming its presence.
My thought was to optimize only the water flow acting on the PD elements, in order to achieve a faster pressure build-up. The question is whether there is actually a lack of power in the first place.
hg
Herbert.

Hello,

Thank you both! I'll tackle that tomorrow.

I just checked where the G40 is located (its mounting position).

VG
Björn.

Quote:

Die Frage ist ohnehin, ob überhaupt Leistungsmangel vorliegt.

He already has a misalignment of almost 1.5° KW with the new timing chain. If this misalignment increases over time, it may soon reach the tolerance limit.

I don't understand the problem. He just needs to loosen three M8 screws each time and rotate the camshaft wheels by approximately 0.5° relative to the camshaft. A mark should be placed on both camshaft wheels beforehand, and that's it.

Personally, I carefully turn the motor back a tiny bit. However, I don't recommend doing this, especially since the rear wheel is no longer accessible on his model.

Quote:

...and rotate the NW wheels approximately 0.5° northwest relative to the camshaft. Before rotating both NW wheels, make a mark on each and that's it.

When he applies the marking in the area of the elongated holes, it is within a radius of approximately 40 mm.
sin 0.5° = 0.009, which means that when rotating, it must observe an arc length of 0.35 mm.
hg
Herbert.

Thank you all for the tips! You've been a great help to me!
I tried it today (both camshafts) - and you're right, it's only a very slight rotation...
Engine (cold start) measured: -0.74°. So, a little too much .
"I initially thought that as the engine warms up, the angle would move towards 0° – indicating the optimal setting had been found. Unfortunately, that's not the case. When warm and idling, it's at -1.49°. At approximately 2000 RPM, it's at -1.09°, at around 3000 RPM it's at -0.84°, and above approximately 3800 RPM it's at -0.35°."
I'm now wondering: should I try again and aim for 0° timing at idle (with a warm engine)? Or should I accept the -1.09° to -0.35° across the RPM range, because the timing belt is still stretching?

Here's the question again: Where exactly is the G40 located? I can't seem to find it. It's supposed to be a Hall sensor, so it should be easy to see .

VG
Björn.

Thank you for the feedback .

Quote:

Ich frage mich jetzt: nochmal ran und die 0° im Leerlauf anstreben (bei warmen Motor)? Oder die -1,09° bis -0,35° über das Drehzahlband akzeptieren, weil sich der Zahnriemen noch längt?

Leave it as is! - It will gradually approach zero over time.
The older 1.9 TDI PD engines actually performed slightly better in the higher RPM range with this setting.

You're welcome, I thank you!

Okay, I'll leave it as is! By the way, I checked the timing belt tension again today (while I was at it), and it has tightened up a bit more. It's now not centered in the recess anymore, but about 1 mm further to the left.
Then I finished it just in time - tomorrow he will be sent to VAG.
Action 23K1: New PD units are available free of charge if the 03G 130 073M unit is still installed.
what I assume...

VG
Björn.