Motorenkunde 1,6 D/TD (Gelöst) | Posts 16+

Hi Steffen,
How fast is the car now, and how long does it take to go from 0 to 100?
hg
Herbert.

Hello!

The vehicle owner is testing it out today.
I will write the results tomorrow evening.

Enjoy your meal! / Have a good lunch!

Steffen G wrote:

... But at least for the JP, I could probably find some injectors for a few euros. Was it sensible that at least the fuel injection pump and the injectors would match each other?

Used nozzles?
Stay away from it unless you have a pressure gauge and can assess the spray pattern and read the opening pressure.

If the car is running well with the currently installed injectors, there's no reason to adjust them.

You wrote that the lower linkage (LL) can no longer be adjusted downwards. Which screw did you turn to achieve this?
Nachdem sich der LL bei gezogenem KSB erhöht nehme ich an die Pumpe hat schon die LL Verstellung mit der Stange, s. Image:

http://system-jockel.de/crash/pict0004.jpg

If that's the case, you need to adjust the remaining amount if you have increased the flow rate too much.
The residual amount is simply the lower limit of the throttle lever's travel, i.e., the point where the lever rests when no gas is applied.
To adjust it, turn the screw out slightly, give a short burst of throttle, and then the RPM should drop from its high point to the idle speed (LL). If the RPM drops too low and then recovers to the idle speed, you've turned the screw out too much. If the RPM stays high or only slowly decreases towards the idle speed, you need to turn it out further.

Okay, perhaps first check if, when the level switch (KSB) isn't activated, the lever on the pump cover (see picture, where the rod with the spring is located, in the upper right of the image) is already at its lower limit. If it is, then turning the rod won't make a difference, as that limit can be easily adjusted from above.

I would set the start time to the maximum allowed early start value, and for the motor/pump combination, I would adjust the Pi x Eye ratio to between 0.95 and 0.98.
When I was experimenting a lot with different pump pressures and nozzle openings (in a heating system), I always relied on the sound of the engine and the oil temperature to assess the performance of the fuel burner. However, that requires some experience in this area.

You can determine if the displacement piston is the same size in both pumps by looking at the Bosch pump designation. It should start with "VE4/x...", where 'x' indicates the piston size: for example, x=8 means an 8mm piston, and x=9 means a 9mm piston.

Hi, Jockel.

Hi there,
The ESP system from JP likely doesn't yet have this more complex mechanism with separate adjustments for residual fuel and idle speed. Instead, the idle is probably still adjusted at the lower limit of the throttle lever travel. With the 1V model, these settings are separated.
hg
Herbert.

As far as I know, with the JP version, it also started at a certain level of MJ (presumably referring to a measurement or quantity).

Enjoy your meal! / Have a good lunch!

"As far as I know, all Golfs and Passats from around 1987 had separate low-beam and high-beam adjustment settings, but I might be mistaken."

Hi, Jockel.

Therefore, as mentioned above, the question was about a picture (photo) of the installed pump.
hg
Herbert.

Hello!

Okay, let's go in the correct order:

Okay, I have a nozzle marking device and know how to use it.
Adjust the nozzles using the shims.

So, the fuel injection pump doesn't have the linkage for idle speed adjustment, and at the top it only has the simple, one-piece "throttle lever," if that's what you mean.
The original pump had the two-piece "gas lever."

The idle speed has therefore increased slightly due to the adjustment of the quantity.
but it's still acceptable. I adjusted the free play on the "throttle lever," which meant it wasn't pressing against the lever anymore and was therefore loose.

Just spoke with the vehicle owner; the car is already performing significantly better and has recovered about 80% of its previous performance.

We are now considering whether to increase the pump's output slightly, install injectors that are compatible with the injection pump, and then see if it stops smoking and if the idle is okay.
But he's almost there.
It's still possible to buy a suitable pump; one is currently being offered for €200 on the E*** website by a commercial vendor.

Luckily, the pump that was installed recently didn't cost much. So, that could also be an option.
Surely the best, right?

Quote:

So, that would also be a possibility. Surely the best, or what?

If the purchased pump is in good condition, that would definitely be the best solution.

On the other hand, I understood that it's no longer really worth it for the vehicle...

Hi!

Opinions change faster than the weather.
Especially now that he knows the engine seems to have survived the crack in the timing chain.

Enjoy your meal! / Have a good lunch!

Steffen G wrote:

Okay, I have a nozzle marking device and know how to use it. Adjust the nozzles using the shims.

Great, put in DN0SD297 with 155 bar pressure, and that's it.
You can find 4 pieces of decent quality for 48 euros online. Alternatively, I could search; I have some still in their original packaging that I no longer need, and they would be cheaper. If you're interested, please send me a private message.

Quote:

So, the fuel injection pump doesn't have the linkage for idle speed adjustment, and at the top it only has the simple, one-piece "throttle lever," if that's what you mean. The original pump had the two-piece "gas lever." The idle speed has therefore increased slightly due to the adjustment of the quantity. but it's still acceptable. I adjusted the free play on the "throttle lever," which meant it wasn't pressing against the lever anymore and was therefore loose.

Okay, so there's no remaining amount to adjust... If the lever isn't hitting its stop, check if there's any slack in the throttle cable; it might be stuck.

Quote:

Just spoke with the vehicle owner; the car is already performing significantly better and has recovered about 80% of its previous performance. We are now considering whether to increase the pump's output slightly, install injectors that are compatible with the injection pump, and then see if it stops smoking and if the idle is okay.

I would try turning it on.

Quote:

But he's almost there. It's still possible to buy a suitable pump; one is currently being offered for €200 on the E*** website by a commercial vendor.

It's a lot of money, but on the other hand, with a commercial product, you can assume that it works, and if it doesn't, you can return it.
I immediately found only one offer on eBay from a reseller, and the pump is used and not refurbished. Depending on how long it's been stored and how it was handled, you're more likely to end up with something that doesn't work than something functional.
A reliable seller on eBay would be Bugetti3000, who delivers quality products, but they tend to cost more. Or just ask; it doesn't cost anything to inquire.

Quote:

Luckily, the pump that was installed recently didn't cost much. So, that could also be an option. Surely the best, or what?

What about the original pump?
If the direction seal has leaked, it's possible that the shaft seal on the drive shaft is defective. If there is still little or no play, you could replace the seal and reinstall the pump.
Or completely seal it; a sealing kit costs less than 20 euros, and you can find instructions online (search for "Uwe Reimann").

Hi, Jockel.

Hello!

Okay, thank you all very much for the many responses.
We've turned the pump up a bit more now.
Currently, approximately 90% of the original performance is restored (or perceived to be).

"That's the way it is, but of course, it's not ideal. Originally, it wasn't even planned to be 100%."

He said the power delivery was a bit uneven.

I might have come up with a "Plan C" as well:
Would anyone be willing to try and repair the broken pump?
I have the pump there, and the lid on top is open.
But I haven't messed around with anything else.
"It's easy to ship something like that – a pump..."

Hello Steffen,

Steffen G wrote:

Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. I might have come up with a "Plan C" as well: Would anyone be willing to try and repair the broken pump? I have the pump there, and the lid on top is open. But I haven't messed around with anything else. It's easy to ship something like that, a pump...

Do it yourself?
Instructions on how to seal can be found here, among other places:

http://www.uwereimann.de/poel/esp-wdr.htm

Who removed the lid?

Hi, Jockel.

Jockel wrote:

Who removed the lid? hello, Jockel

Hi!
Of course, the vehicle owner.

Steffen G wrote:

Jockel wrote: Who removed the lid? hello, Jockel Hi! Of course, the vehicle owner.

*grin*

How did I know that...?

The problem is that he may have adjusted certain settings while working on it, and if he didn't record where and how he made those adjustments, it will be very difficult to readjust the pump using readily available tools (i.e., at the vehicle itself). Furthermore, he may have damaged the spring that connects the low-level shutoff mechanism to the flow control valve.
Basically, you could just start tinkering with it yourself or send the pump to someone who has access to a test bench or wants to try it out on their own car. Personally, I would probably tinker and experiment, but I don't have an engine to test it on.

Hi, Jockel.

Hi!

Okay, I'm going to take a look at the repair manual.

As far as I could see, he hadn't broken anything on the pump yet.
However, the bearing of the drive wheel is worn out; I've already noticed that.