Polo 6N1 Getriebe DKE | Posts 16+

Do you mean that the material can be extended reversibly under tensile stress?
hg
Herbert

Please don't ask me about foreign words, I only know that I converted the Golf II, T4, and also a 6N to manually adjustable cables because the automatic versions had a problem. You only have to treat them incorrectly once, and then they can break.

Assume that there is no or little play in the clutch pedal, the clutch lever does not move, and after placing a piece under the cable, the problem disappears.
What is then broken?

Herbert

Not broken, my opinion is that it's the gearbox. I would then try the simplest thing, which is to install a new clutch cable.

Today, I'm talking to my wife about putting the car in reverse, and she says: "Actually, it's gotten better."

So, I'll take a short spin after they've come home and the engine has warmed up. It's actually gotten better.

I noticed that the dust protection sleeve on the cable is torn. The release lever immediately responds to pressing the clutch pedal. Nevertheless, my intuition tells me that it's the rope.

Therefore, I will take the following measures:

Change the gear oil so that I can (possibly) inspect the clutch

Replace the clutch cable

Yesterday, I took the clutch cable from a donor vehicle with the same transmission. During this process, I noticed that the old cable could be easily pulled out. In my opinion, it was definitely worn out. Afterwards, I drained and refilled the transmission oil as a precaution. I didn't find any shavings in the gear oil.

I am not satisfied with the result because, even when the transmission is warm, the noises when shifting into reverse gear are still present.

I would like to install a new clutch cable. Used ones often have a broken cable when you remove them --> Experiences

Best Manually Adjustable Auction House Item Number:

132141155994

Rüdi wrote:

I would recommend replacing the clutch cable as well. Used ones often have frayed ends when you remove them --> Experiences

Thank you for the tip. Have your experiences been reproducible? I have often read that the process was reverted to manual reeling. So far, I haven't had any problems with it.

I need to open the old [OBJECT] to see what might be causing it to wear out.

It doesn't wear out; something in the self-correcting mechanism breaks, as I've already said more than once, especially if it's been detached.

A new, manually adjustable cable has been ordered. I'm curious to see if it's actually the gearbox.

Practice makes perfect, and the advantage is that used gearboxes can be bought for amounts in the tens of euros.

Rüdi wrote:

Practice makes perfect, and used gearboxes can be found for amounts in the tens of euros.

The transmission is quite rare. It is DKE with a rope pull switch.

Yesterday evening, I installed the manually adjustable version. Everything seems to be working fine during the warm-up phase. In the warm state, the previously described problems reappear.

It is also noteworthy what preload I need to apply to the rope. The thread is almost completely stripped.

I am now certain that the record is worn out and this is causing the problems. I installed the Sachs clutch kit 100,000 km ago.

Which clutch kit would you recommend? Should I go with Sachs again? Or Lutheran University?

It doesn't matter...

vag-driver wrote:

Yesterday evening, I installed the manually adjustable version. Everything seems to be working fine during the warm-up phase. In the warm state, the previously described problems reappear. It is also noteworthy what preload I need to apply to the rope. The thread is almost completely stripped. I am now certain that the record is worn out and this is causing the problems. I installed the Sachs clutch kit approximately 100,000 km ago.

Hi,

I'm very excited about the outcome.

So, as it seems, either the clutch lever must be bent strongly towards the flywheel (or worn down), or the problem lies elsewhere. Have you already checked the pedals and the spray booth?
A spray wall that has been installed in the area of rope rigging would exactly achieve the effect you describe. A bent/broken pedal or a detached pedal block also.

edit:
Just heard that in a polo, a plastic block is used as a counter-support on the splash shield. It could also be the case that he gives up.

Greetings from Berlin,
olli