VCDS and OBD diagnostic device in the On-Board Diagnostics Shop
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VW T4 2.5 TDI Fehler Mengenstellwerk | Posts 16+

 
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Blaumann
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Post24-07-2019, 6:51    Subject: Quote

Hi.

You can insert something like a shim or screwdriver in the lowest part where you access it, and then press down on top.

Alternatively, use two small pliers: one to hold the material in place and one to bend it.

Are you redoing all the solder joints?

Greetings.


Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:09.
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Post24-07-2019, 22:35    Subject: Quote

Hello!

Okay, I'd like to add a little more solder to it.
And I'm also considering using solder connectors.
They are thicker heat shrink tubes with solder inside.
There will be a black cover on top of them, so hopefully they won't fall off, even if they aren't completely diesel-proof.
I'd like to get some from Würth. They have a shrinkage ratio of 3:1 and should hold the wires together securely.
I really suspect that they heated those components for too long, which caused the solder to become brittle. You don't usually hear about connections coming loose so frequently.


Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:10.
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guste100
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Post25-07-2019, 10:05    Subject: Quote

Could you please repost the image of the connections with better resolution?
Then we might be able to better assess the cause. From what I can see in the blurry picture, it looks like the right pins are surrounded by solder, while the left pins barely have any.

Regarding your solder joints: I wouldn't introduce any plastic into the fuel system unless its compatibility with fuel has been verified. It would be extremely frustrating if components from the plastic were to break off and narrow the pump or injector passages.

Regards,
Sure.

Here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Guste" means "gust" in English. It can also be used as a verb, meaning "to gust."


Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:12.
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Post25-07-2019, 20:34    Subject: Quote

It seems that all the contacts are under a lot of tension. When trying to solder them, they practically jump out at you.
I'm not sure if soldering will be enough here.
I don't want to continue driving with the feeling that those things could come loose at any moment.
I really want to send the pump to a true expert and then send the bill for the repair to the person who caused the problem.
My lawyer advised me to do the same thing last time.



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Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:13.
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Post25-07-2019, 21:22    Subject: Quote

Here's another picture of the initial damage.
Back then, only 3 out of the 4 screws on the lid were fastened.
All the solder joints have far too little solder, and the wires are under tension.



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Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:14.
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Herbert
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Post25-07-2019, 22:41    Subject: Quote

Hi,
What do you imagine a specialist for MSW repairs to be like? That's not something typically found in an auto repair shop. There are no standard repair procedures outside of the manufacturer, only the kind of talent demonstrated by people like those documented here. The results achieved so far speak for themselves. Understanding and doing it yourself is key.
hg
Herbert.
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Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:15.
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Post25-07-2019, 23:01    Subject: Quote

So, the workshop I hired specializes in repairing fuel injection pumps. Their company name even includes "Diesel Technology," and they overhaul fuel injection pumps for traditional workshops throughout Austria.
Even Autocenter Kirchheim, a specialist for VP44 pumps, has their VP37 pumps serviced there.
So, you can't blame me for anything.
It wasn't cheap either.
In this case, I'm going to say that I probably would have done it better.
And even if there were no specific repair instructions, wires and cables must not be under tension.


Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:17.
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Post26-07-2019, 6:21    Subject: Translating...

[Translating...]

In dem Link hier findest Du eine Explosionszeichnung der VP37: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=8537 . Die Teile sind (waren) vom Hersteller Bosch für eine Instandsetzung zu haben. Das Mengenstellwerk selbst wird da als ein Teil betrachtet. Es gibt noch einen weiteren Aufbruch des MSW, der Winkelgeber (mit Anschlüssen) ist aber kein Ersatzteil.
Bei einer professionellen Instandsetzung müßten die Kontakte ja auch punktiert werden.
hg
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Post26-07-2019, 8:44    Subject: Quote

For me, it doesn't look like the soldering is "too hot".

Quite the opposite. Especially with the right pins, I feel that the solder doesn't flow up onto the wire; it looks like the wire was forced into the solder because it was too cold. While it does stick together somehow, in my opinion, there wasn't enough heat applied to the wire itself.
To the other electricians: If you have a different opinion, feel free to share your comments.


Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:19.
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Post26-07-2019, 9:23    Subject: Quote

I agree with that as well.
The wires must be cleaned and properly aligned while they are still desoldered. It's best to remove the connector after desoldering. Any residue from the old solder can then be easily removed. Finally, use a device with moderate power to heat the wire and tab together and connect them with solder.
Lead-based solder has a lower melting point than lead-free solder, which helps to avoid unnecessary heat input.
Cover the remaining MSW with aluminum foil during the work.
It worked for me twice.
hg
Herbert.
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Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:21.
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Post26-07-2019, 20:30    Subject: Quote

Thank you very much for the great tips!

I called the repair shop today.
They admitted back then that they didn't install the new interlocking system.
During the repair carried out by the supervisor, it appears that the motor winding was not disassembled, with the wires straightened and reassembled; instead, only the wires were resoldered.
He offered to send me the new MSW and asked that I never contact him again.
I wouldn't have done it anyway, even if it had been appropriate.
In addition, I noticed that the pump retaining plate was missing.
Combined with the poor soldering and wires that are under tension, this is likely the reason for the failures.
I initially resoldered the wires and reinforced them with fuel- and solvent-resistant heat shrink tubing.
I will get the bracket immediately.



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Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:23.
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Post26-07-2019, 20:58    Subject: Quote

Without position 28, diesel lines can also break easily. icon_idea.gif

Just for information.

Best regards, Rainer.


Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:24.
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Post26-07-2019, 21:42    Subject: Quote

Hi,
"What's the point of the heat shrink tubing? It doesn't serve any purpose here. Using hot air to shrink it only put unnecessary stress on the RSW sensor and the fuel temperature sensor."
The rear ESP (Electronic Stability Program) support bracket ("holding plate") is essential.
hg
Herbert.
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Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:25.
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Post26-07-2019, 23:52    Subject: Quote

Sorry guys! I actually have it!
It just looks like a part from a 1.9 TDI engine because the ACV engine actually has two cable holders on it.
The RSW sensor and temperature sensor were not in the line of fire icon_wink.gif.
I definitely feel better about using heat shrink tubing.
Only the future will tell what benefits it will bring.
New MSW (presumably referring to "Material Safety Data Sheet") is being added to the luggage in the meantime.


Translated on 28-07-2026, 22:26.
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