2.000km Vollgas dank Wohnwagen --> sehr Motorschädlich ? | Posts 16+

Julian wrote:

Well, if Dad only uses it once a year, there's often a lack of practical experience. And I don't think it's very friendly to caravan drivers that caravan drivers are always seen as a hindrance, traveling at 70-80 km/h.

... this is definitely frustrating.
Dann scheint es, dass ich nicht der typische Wohnwagenfahrer bin, den ich suche. Ich fahre mit meinem Wohnmobil etwa 5000 km pro Jahr (nur in Deutschland!). Dies ist auf zwei längeren Reisen und einige kürzere Ausflüge verteilt. Daher sollte es keine fehlende Erfahrung mit Wohnmobilen geben. In addition, I often drive the towing team of a friend, and of course, the teams for various rallies or races.
For me (since I have a 100km/h approval), trucks are very important - for fuel saving . Even though I could do it faster, I don't (or rarely do).

The 2.0l difference in fuel consumption seems very high to me. I measured 40mg/U exhaust gas at the intake. This corresponds to 5.04kg/hour at 2100U/min at 100km/h, which in turn corresponds to about 6l/100km. And if I had to maintain full throttle at 100km/h, would that be about a rough calculation error ? It seems so low to me... Unfortunately, I don't have MFA.






It states 40mg per dose per cylinder. 1 dose = 2 rotations

so: 40mg*4*2100 1/min:2=168000mg/min total

further: 168000 mg/min * 60 min = 10080000 mg/h = 10.08 kg/h

converted to liters: 10.08 kg/h * 0.85 l/kg = 8.57 l/h

if the speed is 100 km/h: 8.57 l/100 km



The highest stress occurs when towing a trailer at full load at the rated speed and low speed (i.e., uphill driving).
If your caravan is not overloaded and the maximum permitted gradient relative to the weight is not exceeded, you should not have any problems!!!

@Ben1972:

It states 40mg per dose per cylinder. 1 dose = 2 rotations


Danke! Jetzt habe ich endlich gelernt, 'mg/Hub' richtig zu interpretieren! Allerdings steckt in deiner Berechnung noch ein kleiner Fehler: Die Dichte beträgt nicht 0,85 l/kg, sondern 0,85 kg/l. This results in a maximum possible fuel consumption at 2100 rpm @ 100 km/h: 10.08 kg/h / (0.85 kg/l) = 11.86 l/h = 11.86 l/100 km.

Since I'm not driving with the pedal on the ground at 100 km/h, the consumption of 9 l/100 km should be approximately correct.


@All:
Thank you for all the helpful tips!
However, I still have three questions:
1) Regarding proper loading: What do you recommend? Should we simply utilize the 75kg support load exactly, or 'the more at the front, the better'? I've heard all sorts of things...

2) Unfortunately, my Golf 3 AHU (engine control unit) does not have an oil cooler (except for the heat exchanger) after my inspection. Do you agree with Rainer that I should probably install an oil cooler?

3) Wenn bereits ein Ölradiator nachgerüstet werden soll: Wenn einige AHUs bereits einen serienmäßig hatten, sollte ich auf VW-Teile zurückgreifen? Oder soll ich einen Radiator von D&W für 100 Euro + ein Installationskit für 100 Euro + einen Thermostat für 37 Euro = insgesamt 237 Euro kaufen? This is costing me more than the detachable tow hitch with a 13-inch electric kit...

Thanks in advance for your tips!
-Private

PrivatBereich wrote:

However, I still have three questions: 1) Regarding proper loading: What do you recommend? Should we simply utilize the 75kg support load exactly, or "the more at the front, the better"? I've heard all sorts of things...

50-75kg load on the coupling, and that's all you need.
The main focus of the Wowa should be as low as possible, so all heavy items should be placed at the bottom of the storage compartments.

PrivatBereich wrote:

3) Wenn bereits ein Ölradiator nachgerüstet werden soll: Wenn einige AHUs bereits einen serienmäßig hatten, sollte ich auf VW-Teile zurückgreifen? Oder soll ich einen Radiator von D&W für 100 Euro + ein Installationskit für 100 Euro + einen Thermostat für 37 Euro = insgesamt 237 Euro kaufen? This is costing me more than the detachable tow hitch with 13-inch electric kit...

I'd like to take a look around the junkyard. D&W = Prices from pharmacies.

Hello, Rainer

So, utilizing the load-bearing capacity is already good! But that's only half the truth. You should distribute the weight so that you have approximately the same load per wheel on the tow hitch. Also, pack everything in such a way that you can store almost everything close to the center of gravity, i.e. close to the floor.

Regarding additional cooling: if such a thing exists and you're not afraid to invest, then I would recommend installing it. It's a real pain when you're climbing mountains and you have to run the heating at full power in the shade at 30 degrees, just to prevent the cooling water from boiling over.

A 13-pole motor is nice (it just means the lighting and water pump, for example, can be used), but it's not strictly necessary!

50-75kg load on the coupling, and that's all you need.
The main focus of the Wowa should be as low as possible, so all heavy items should be placed at the bottom of the storage compartments.


I have observed that nearly identical wheel loads are more important than the load-bearing capacity. Extremely different wheel loads can significantly contribute to wobbling. Since I have somewhat balanced my Wowa, it only starts to wobble beyond 130 km/h, and not already at 110-115 km/h, as it used to do.

Hello, Jörg,

that the caravan should be loaded approximately equally on the left and right, I actually took for granted
Otherwise, he would have probably fallen over in a turn.
IMHO, large water tanks without anti-overflow plates, which are not located near the center of gravity of the washing machine, are also problematic.
Therefore, installing a 100-liter water tank behind the "Wowa" license plate after the fact is not a good idea.

Hello, Rainer

Hello, Jörg,

that the caravan should be loaded approximately equally on the left and right, I actually took for granted
Otherwise, he would have probably fallen over in a turn.
IMHO, large water tanks without anti-overflow plates, which are not located near the center of gravity of the washing machine, are also problematic.
Therefore, installing a 100-liter water tank behind the 'Wowa' license plate after the fact is not a good idea.

Hello, Rainer

Okay! For me, it was a learning process! But even a 40-liter tank overflowing on a Wowa side can have a significant impact, especially if it's only loaded on one side!

Hi campers,

You're advising our colleague to carry a load that he's not allowed to transport at all! The Golf 3 is limited to 50kg, unless it is a Syncro!
However, when I was driving my 1Z, I was still around 55-60kg.

joergs wrote:

I observed that loads on the wheels were almost identical, and I found that the wheel load was more important than the load capacity. Extremely different wheel loads can also significantly contribute to wobbling.

Even with various chassis designs, it is not always possible to achieve equal wheel loads, and yet the tendency for the vehicle to lean is very low.
For example, mine has the kitchen and bathroom on the same side (opposite a small seating area), which already creates a significant difference in wheel load, over 100kg, due to the design. Even with heavy loads, I can't get below 50kg (unless the refrigerator is empty). What's much more important here is the load capacity! Driving at 80km/h with 40kg is already dangerous, at 50kg it's just barely possible, and at 70kg it's like driving on ice up to 130km/h. If I then forcibly change the wheel loads, it will no longer have a significant impact.

Oops, I naturally made the mistake of focusing on other people's cars instead of my own

Even with various chassis designs, it is not always possible to achieve equal wheel loads, and yet the tendency for the vehicle to lean is very low.
For example, mine has the kitchen and bathroom on the same side (opposite a small seating area), which already creates a significant difference in wheel load, over 100kg, due to the design. Even with heavy loads, I can't get below 50kg (unless the refrigerator is empty). What's much more important here is the load capacity! Driving at 80km/h with 40kg is already dangerous, at 50kg it's just barely possible, and at 70kg it's like driving on ice up to 130km/h. Then, if I change the wheel loads forcefully, it won't have much of an effect anymore.

You're basically right. It's the same for me. But by adding extra components and cleverly loading, I've managed to keep it around 10kg. I'm very happy with this, and as I said, the weight limit has shifted to a point where I'll never exceed it! I've simply moved the battery and other components to the other side. In addition, I've also incorporated the awning poles, which has allowed me to balance everything out quite well!

joergs wrote:

I've just moved the battery and other accessories to the other side. I've also moved the awning poles, so I've pretty much balanced everything out!

I have the awning and caravan cover in the car because the load capacity in my caravan is not sufficient. I only have a total gross weight of 1000kg with a length of 5 meters (800kg empty). I weigh the vehicle before each trip - Load weight between 970 and 1025 kg

Now, however, we're really going off-topic


Besides that:
Are there so many TDI drivers who are also campers, or are there now so many campers?

I have the awning and caravan cover in the car because the load capacity in my caravan is not sufficient. I only have a total gross weight of 1000kg with a length of 5 meters (800kg empty). I weigh the vehicle before each trip - Load weight between 970 and 1025 kg

Now, however, we're really going off-topic


Besides that:
Are there so many TDI drivers who are also campers, or are there now so many campers?


Even if it's off-topic!

I am in a fortunate position to weigh 865kg and have a maximum load capacity of 1200kg!!! Therefore, I will load as much as possible in the trailer and will also use the 75kg load-bearing capacity as much as possible. Clothes will therefore go in the trunk.

@Rainer K.:

Quote:

My conclusion: rather than going at 110 km/h, I'd prefer to go at 105 km/h and attach a bumper to the back of a truck. This would save a lot of fuel. Between 110 km/h free and 105 km/h truck wind shadow, I have an approximate 2 l/100 km fuel consumption difference.

Although I am not a slipstream rider, I am currently considering whether a rider following closely behind another might not actually experience a lack of the urgently needed airflow to the radiators?

Hi Roger,

Roger wrote:

Although I am not a racing driver, I am currently wondering whether, when following closely, he might not actually lack the urgently needed airflow to the radiators?

While I am not Rainer, I will still respond.

Basically, you're right, but the cooling of a street vehicle shouldn't be so minimal that it causes problems during maneuvers like drafting. In Formula 1, where every kilogram counts, this is definitely a problem. Cars with tow bars often have other (stronger) cooling fans. In my AXR, I had to install a stronger fan because I was experiencing this exact problem when drafting. Now the problem is solved. Even at 30° or higher, with the air conditioning running, there are no problems.

Thanks for the tips on loading, I learned a lot!


Since the water temperature, according to your statements, definitely doesn't constantly rise, I'm not particularly concerned about that. I have the water temperature under control. Display and can shut off the gas if the water temperature increases.

In this case, the oil temperature is different. Unfortunately, I don't have a display for this *MFAwünsch*. And now, Rainer has also 'scared' me by saying that the oil can also get too hot. Does the oil-water exchanger at least partially maintain the oil temperature at the water temperature? If the water then became too hot, I would definitely notice it...