Klima kühlt nicht mehr wie am ersten Tag | Posts 16+

I received your email. Now, all I need to know is the configuration of my air conditioner. *g*

Best regards, WarLord.

Hello,

The total volume should be 115 cc.
Okay, I understand. Please provide the text you want me to translate from German to English. I will only provide the translation.

Question: How can you determine the amount of oil present? (Sorry for the question, but I'm a complete beginner when it comes to climate issues [I basically only know that on one side, a certain amount of heat is released, while on the other side, an equal amount is absorbed]). Regarding the ventilation system: So, the ventilation system has a damper and a collection container, right?

Best regards, WarLord.

Hello,

That can only be done by completely refilling it.
Okay, so let's drain the refrigerant and oil.
Evacuate and flush the system.
Investment - Refilling.

Hello MichaelII!

"In a similar situation, I was told that this particular filter, when it contains enough water and dirt, can freeze very quickly, which significantly reduces its cooling performance, even though the system itself is functioning correctly. After replacing the filter, everything worked as if it were brand new." However, since everything is drained and emptied again during a filter change, it is not always possible to pinpoint the exact source of the problem with 100% certainty.

Best regards, Peter.

@Michael

How do you drain the oil? Oh, and how do I flush the system? With compressed air and nitrogen?

Best regards, WarLord.

Hi @Warlord

It is flushed with nitrogen, but...

Did I understand correctly that he simply opened the bottle and filled it with refrigerant until a certain pressure was reached?

How did he measure the amount? Put each wheel on a scale and then add up the results?

As mentioned above, this is a matter of grams, and it needs to be precise; otherwise, it's simply garbage.

'Normal pressure' is just a guideline and, at best, provides a clue, but it's not proof. I got this feedback from the Audi dealership. (The motto was: 'Give the guy what he wants, and he'll go away...')

If that's the case, it's further proof that you have to keep a close eye on them.

Hello,

The refrigerant oil can be drained from the compressor. Always replace the drain plug.

Purge the refrigerant circuit with compressed air and nitrogen.

To effectively remove moisture, other contaminants, and aged refrigerant oil, while minimizing refrigerant consumption and avoiding complex installation procedures, compressed air and nitrogen should be used.

Caution!
Only use pressure regulators with nitrogen tanks.
The gas mixture escaping from the components should be extracted using appropriate exhaust systems.

Always blow components in the opposite direction of the refrigerant flow.
Compressed air and nitrogen cannot be blown through the throttle, expansion valve, compressor, liquid reservoir, or collection tank.
For capacitors with a desiccant, the desiccant cartridge needs to be removed.
First, blow out old refrigerant oil and dirt with compressed air, then dehumidify the components with nitrogen.
The compressed air must be passed through an air purification and drying system.


For refrigerant lines with threaded connections or flared fittings, use adapters from the V.A.G 1785 adapter set (adapters 1785/1 to 1785/) to connect the 5/8" -18 UNF filling hoses.
For refrigerant lines without threads or a coupling nut at the connection (for connecting adapters), use a commercially available blow gun with a rubber nozzle.
The refrigerant circuit should be purged first with compressed air and then with nitrogen.
Air escaping from the components, or... Nitrogen should be extracted using a suitable system (e.g., a workshop extraction system).

The circuit breaker should be reset when:
- If dirt or other contaminants are present in the system.

- If the vacuum gauge fails to maintain the required vacuum level during the evacuation of a closed refrigerant circuit...
(Moisture is present in the refrigerant cycle and is building up pressure).

- The refrigerant circuit was opened during the normal assembly time (e.g., after an accident).

Based on pressure and temperature measurements within the circuit, it is assumed that moisture is present in the refrigerant circuit.

- There is uncertainty regarding the amount of refrigerant oil in the refrigerant circuit.

- The compressor had to be replaced due to internal damage (e.g.,). Sounds or no output.



For vehicles where the refrigerant lines do not have threads for connecting the V.A.G 1785 adapter, a blow-out gun with a rubber nozzle should be used to purge the individual components. It is particularly important to ensure that the connectors are not damaged (bent or scratched).
To purge the evaporator, disconnect the expansion valve or metering device and blow through the connection for the low-pressure line (larger diameter).
Always blow components in the opposite direction of the refrigerant flow.
Check the expansion valve; if it is dirty or corroded, replace it.
If there are dark, sticky deposits on the components that cannot be removed with compressed air, replace those components.
Thin, light gray deposits on the inside (of the pipes) do not affect the function of the components.
After blowing, it is generally necessary to replace liquid containers or collection containers, as well as the throttle. For capacitors with a dryer, the dryer cartridge needs to be replaced.

'How long does the process take, approximately? Will my workshop do it for me if I ask nicely? If I had the equipment, I would do it myself (but unfortunately, I don't). I'm increasingly feeling like I'm being ripped off by these workshops.' First, the rear brake discs, which were 'apparently' replaced a year ago and are already worn down again (after less than 20,000 km), and now the air conditioning system, which apparently wasn't properly filled.

@garth.brooks

He only talked about the pressure gauge. I thought he knew what he was doing. It's disgusting; can't anyone be trusted anymore?

Best regards, WarLord.

Hello,

You just need to clearly and directly tell the master what you want.

1. Completely drain and verschandeln the system (including the refrigerant oil) using compressed air and nitrogen.
2. Replace the dryer.
3. Evacuate the facility (also pay attention to the vacuum pressure here).
4. Fill the system according to regulations (with refrigerant and oil).
5. Test and document.

Stay close to the car and be careful.
If someone who knows what they're doing does it, it shouldn't take too long.

Okay, the refrigerant will be collected during the process. Hopefully, that won't make it too expensive. I think it should take no more than two hours, right? How much vacuum is needed for the evacuation? I'll have Bosch service do it; I've only heard good things about them. One more thing: The system's cooling performance improves over time (with mileage), but it won't reach the original cooling level it had when it was new. Doesn't that suggest that there's still a missing coolant?

Best regards, WarLord.

?

Best regards, WarLord.