Wieder mal 65535 - Steuergerät defekt 31-10 - Unterbr.... | Posts 16+

And there are also intercoolers that can leak.

However, if the pressure is too low (due to a leak in the cooling system), it should not enter emergency mode.
and the error memory doesn't show anything at all. In my old 1Z, there usually *was* something stored in the error memory when it went into limp mode. And normally, it would also indicate limp mode with a flashing glow plug light.

As I mentioned above: Control unit error 65535 - control unit defective, 31-10 - interruption... (which cannot be reset), and intermittent intake manifold pressure regulation difference. This one can be reset.

Best regards, Holger.

Hmmm...

Do the intake manifold pressure sensor and the ambient pressure sensor provide consistent readings when compared? Do you have an OBD scanner connected that you can use to monitor these values?

'For testing purposes, I installed a temporary LDA (Lambda Sensor). It was simply connected to the line leading to the control unit using a T-connector, and then a hose ran it into the passenger compartment. The test drive during which we observed the values using a VW diagnostic tool (which looked like a laptop screen and was operated via touchscreen) took place three or four weeks ago. Unfortunately, we didn't perform a plausibility check at that time because I hadn't read many articles in the forum yet. My friend who works at VW isn't very knowledgeable about these things either. He didn't even know the difference between WG (Wastegate) and VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) chargers, just the usual stuff.'

Based on the checks performed on the turbocharger, I'm now focusing my troubleshooting efforts on the engine control unit (ECU).
I now have an engine control unit (ECU) with the part number 028 906 021 GG from a Golf. The question is whether and how I can get it working in my car. I think adjusting the WFS (likely referring to software parameters) is the minimum I need to do. I would appreciate any advice or suggestions.
Best regards, Holger.

I used to have a Passat 35i facelift from 1994, also with a 1Z engine. There were no WFS issues with that car... But adjusting the WFS shouldn't be a problem; there are good guides available for that.

The GG should run on engine number 1. However, it requires an immobilizer system!

Regards,
-Private

And how does it work now? Do I just plug it in and start using it, or do I need to go to the dealer first?

If the car has a WFS (Warm Function System), then the WFS and the engine control unit (ECU) need to 'learn' from each other. Simply plugging it in won't work, as the WFS will shut down the engine again after 1-2 seconds. As discussed in private messages, you can find information on how to properly calibrate the WFS at DRV. I believe there was also a hint in this forum about how to temporarily disable the WFS. You don't necessarily need to go to a dealership. However, it is essential that you have a VAG-COM diagnostic tool.

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Hello everyone, and I apologize to anyone I may have annoyed in the past few days.

'Having problems with your TDI?'
'No more guessing - performing a diagnosis brings clarity!'

Absolutely true. I was just able to read the measurement data blocks.

Since I live at an altitude of 175 meters above sea level and the surrounding air pressure is reading 693 millibars, I finally have confirmation that this stupid control unit is malfunctioning.

Okay, here's the translation:

'Now, I have another question for the experts: Surely this sensor could be replaced with a fixed resistor, or perhaps sourced from another control unit?'

Hello Rainer,

I can only drive Pikes Peak if the engine control unit (ECU) is working properly.

'I'm definitely going to win with my fog machine because everyone driving behind me won't be able to see the road anymore.'

'But I will try to follow the professional's advice and replace the pressure sensor if I can find one that fits.'