Good day.
I would like to tell you something about a VP37 with a 10/11/12 or even (14mm) piston, used in VW 1997 racing, but only in testing, not on the track, as only 12mm pistons were used.
Fuel injection volumes.
10mm = 51mg
11mm = 64mg
12mm = 81mg
14mm equals 95mg.
'These are the maximum values per piston stroke, which are only theoretically achievable; in reality, they are all about 3-6mg lower.'
2: Services that are possible.
10mm = 51mg. Max dosage = 160-170mg (for experienced users).
11mm = 64mg. Max = 180 (hardcore).
12mm = 81mg Max = 210??? hardcore.
14mm = 95mg Max = ??? hardcore
Everything is done with aftermarket parts, always hardcore, and always involves a complete overhaul, including a turbocharger, clutch, etc., approximately costing [amount] depending on the base engine and environmental conditions.
There is always room for improvement, because we are human beings and we are constantly evolving!
3: Nozzles 216 T4
Bringing alone accomplishes nothing, or maybe it does, with the 3 Ps.
Why?
Because the pump determines the flow rate, not the nozzle, it does have an advantage: it has an opening pressure of 220 bar, compared to 205 with 190 bar.
This means the pressure increases by approximately 30 bar, which causes the spray to start slightly later and be finer.
We'll just ignore that for now.
Recommended for use with pistons from 11mm upwards; essential for pistons 12mm and larger. There's also a 260 main jet available, which is only really necessary for use with pistons 12mm and above. Awesome!
4: Control unit (chip)
Without it, nothing works.
The topic is too broad for this forum and needs to be re-evaluated regularly.
And with the 11-12 mm pumps, multiple adjustments are needed to achieve optimal performance.
5: Turbo.
VNT15, only 10mm.
VNT 17 10/11/ also also 12mm, just like that.
Vnt 20: Only 12 boost pressures above the set value, starting from 1500 RPM, with a maximum of 1.8 bar. Overboosts up to 2.3 bar.
6: Compaction.
Please provide the German text you would like me to translate.
'Why should I change it? I haven't seen any defects yet.'
'Except for one of the AFN series in the cold storage, it only started working after 3 years.'
Torment.
7: Durability.
It's probably clear to everyone that a 100% increase in performance won't happen without consequences, right?
But we Faherns also don't use a production engine.
Crankshaft, connecting rods, and pistons: I haven't changed them yet, and so far, everything is holding up. But eventually, I might have to say it's too much power.
Clutch: Doesn't hold. Not even a little bit. GRINSSS (Sinter).
Transmission: We're talking about a 5-speed ZF transmission. The ZF company is a symbol of quality. I believe it's more durable than the newer 6-speed transmissions. I only install the 6-speed because of the gear ratio; it's not a ZF.
The 6th gear has been holding up so far, and that's without any issues.
8: Why EVERYTHING!
To save fuel? To drive 500,000 km? To change the oil every 50,000 km?
Or maybe because I have too much money? Who knows.
Honestly.
I drive and modify things to be the first to reach a speed of 250 km/h while driving over train tracks.
to achieve 400 Nm of torque at 2000 RPM. To annoy a R32.
Simply because it's fun, because I'm addicted to performance, to progress, to power.
'I don't care if the motors only last for 1 year, or if I now need 8 liters instead of 6, or if the tires only last one summer, or if the brakes are blue after 2 uses; I can see the others in my rearview mirror.'
When something breaks, it's replaced with something bigger.
Sure, here's the translation:
'PS:'
This conversion is extremely expensive, and anyone who does something like this must accept that I drive a racing car, and there is no more warranty on anything.
If one turbine has been maintained a million times, it might break down after only three times for another one. But that doesn't mean the world will end.
My experience is entirely based on practical application: 5 years of diesel conversions and 5 AFN conversions, specifically 4 with 12mm injectors and 1 with an 11mm injector, which was later changed to a 12mm because it wasn't providing enough fuel after a few weeks.
Okay, everyone, please read this before you respond. These are my experiences with the pumps, and please don't give me the usual 'it's not possible' answers, or ask who among you has done something similar before.
My recommendations for a 12mm vehicle.
Oil change after 10,000 km.
Timing belt replacement after 60,000 km.
Drive carefully, and if the oil temperature reaches 120-130 degrees Celsius, stop.
The rest is up to you.
Please excuse my spelling; I was always the one fetching chalk in German class (just kidding).
Sincerely,
Mirco
Remember:
There is always room for improvement, because we are human beings and we are constantly evolving!