Hilfe, beim Hoppeltest durchgefallen, was nun? Kompression? | Posts 16+

Just wait and see!

'With the AFN (presumably a specific car model), that's not the problem. A skilled mechanic should be able to do it in about half a day. You have to take everything apart: timing belt, etc. During this process, the timing chain tensioner usually fails as well, and so on. If you don't absolutely have to, I wouldn't do it.'

Just hold still for a moment!

What kind of impression does the salesperson make? Where are you from? And when looking for a workshop, I wouldn't necessarily go to a brand-specific workshop. Instead, look for a reputable and experienced independent workshop. First, they are usually cheaper, and often much more competent.

Where are you from? Maybe someone here can help you.

I'm from Bad Rappenau.

The salesperson makes a good impression.

My colleague recommended a company to me, and he's very happy with them. I contacted them, and the master craftsman made a very good impression.
My VW workshop, where I have my Golf serviced, is too sterile for my taste. They're the type who say, 'The diagnostic tool isn't showing anything, so there's nothing wrong.'


'With the AFN (presumably a specific car model), that's not the problem. A skilled mechanic should be able to do it in about half a day. You have to take everything apart: timing belt, etc. During this process, other things usually break as well. If you don't absolutely have to, I wouldn't do it.'


Okay, half a day = 5 hours = approximately 200 euros plus materials (e.g., ZKD...), is that a good estimate?
And that's just for the diagnosis...

Okay, so I guess I'll just hope that everything is alright for now, and then we'll see.
Best regards,
Roland
P.S.: What do you think about the KGE (Kaufmännische Gesamtschule) in the context of the paper test?

AAAAAALLLLLSSOOOO:

Compression measured:

41 Bar.
42 Bar.
41 Bar.
41 Bar.

It might seem strange, but the mechanic said the values are normal and the engine is fine.
After I left (and they finished their work), I had some doubts, so I took the measurement sheet to another workshop for a second opinion.
He then checked it and mentioned something about a wear limit between 26 and 30, and a threshold of 19, but he said the measurements looked good because the cylinders were relatively even.
He said they probably put the wrong calibration card into the device.
It's a small cardboard card, about 4cm by 4cm, with a scale from 10 to 60, and four red, curved strips, each representing a cylinder, that extend up to 41/42 and then stop.

I then had the exhaust probe connected to check the catalytic converter, and the reading was 0.7 at full throttle, which the mechanic said was acceptable (up to 1.2 is okay).

And then I took the plunge and bought it.

I couldn't find any correlation between the hopping test results (7.8/8/5.25/7.3 seconds) and the compression test results (41/42/41/41 bar).
But I was happy to spend those 30 Euros.

Best regards, Roland.

RoBro wrote:

And then I took the plunge and bought the thing. I couldn't find any correlation between the hopping test results (7.8/8/5.25/7.3 seconds) and the compression test results (41/42/41/41 bar). But I was happy to spend those 30 Euros.

Hi Roland,

Either the causes of the cylinder misfires during the "hop test" are irrelevant in real-world engine operation, or the vehicle was rolled across a series of perfectly sized indentations during the hop test, with the indentations spaced exactly two engine revolutions apart.

If you're interested, you can repeat the "Hoppeltest" in other locations.

In any case, have a good trip with the car .

Hi,

I just had another thought regarding the compression measurement:

The scale displays values from 10 to 60 from left to right, and just to the left of the '10' mark, there are vertical lines that run from bottom to top, then extend to the right towards the maximum pressure.
Could it be that this vertical line actually represents the zero point, and since it's located about one unit below the '10' on my scale, I would need to subtract 9 from the measured value, and then...

32
33
32
32

Sure.

Then the measured values would not only indicate that the compression is even, but also show good values just above 30, which is where they could theoretically be.
By the way, the test card says:
MotoMeter Leonberg.
Regards,
Roland.

I'm glad that the compression test turned out positive.

Here are two more options for checking if the compression is correct.

1. It is possible to use an endoscope to look inside the engine and identify damage to the valves, etc.

Is it possible to perform a pressure loss test?
In each case, a piston is turned to its top dead center (TDC) position, pressure is applied, and a sound is produced.
where it blows out.

Ok, sorry.
Regards,
Roland.