VTG (ALH) Cleaning: Get Help & Tips Now!

Hello.

Unfortunately, I can only access the internet with my PDA, which makes searching difficult because it's too expensive and too slow. Could someone please post a link or instructions here?

I'm currently in Siberia and need to drive my car another 6000 km to get home. I have a problem with the turbocharger in my Bora. It does reach full boost pressure, but it takes several seconds to do so. During that time, the engine is obviously making bad noises. The VVT (variable valve timing) rod on the pressure sensor seems very stiff; I can't push it all the way down from the top with my finger.

Are there any possibilities to do something without removing the charger?

Best regards.

Paul.

The pressure sensor is stuck, which is why it's tight. Try using a syringe to loosen it. Otherwise, you can use a VAG-COM device to alternately activate the pressure sensor and see if the linkage moves.

If the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) is stuck and continues to operate, everything should be fine, and the Russian limiter would kick in to reduce the fuel injection amount. Therefore, you might also want to check the EGR valve and the intercooler system.

Okay, I suppose you don't find VAG COM diagnostic tools everywhere in Siberia.

Loosen the pressure sensor and then try moving the linkage with the sensor attached. If this is difficult, you can be sure that the variable geometry turbine (VGT) is dirty. Depending on the situation, you may need a small Allen wrench to disassemble the VGT (if it's in a turbocharger), otherwise standard tools will suffice. Otherwise, try driving for an extended period under high load (if possible, especially in Siberia) to potentially remove minor deposits. If you move the linkage back and forth by hand several times and then drive "faster," you may avoid having to disassemble it in Siberia (there's a good chance of that).

Otherwise,

Okay, here's the translation:

"/viewtopic.php?t=11527&highlight=vtg"

Could you please describe the procedure using VAGCOM in more detail? I have already obtained the VAGCOM software and interface; I just need to find a laptop.

polo2f wrote:

Could you please describe the procedure with VAGCOM in more detail? I have already obtained the VAGCOM and the interface; I just need to find a laptop.

A) Open the main menu (MSG), select "Actuator Diagnosis," and then navigate through the options until you reach "LD Control Valve (N 75)."
B) Open the MSG file, select job number 11, and switch to the default settings.

AFAIK, you need a full version for both of them...

Quote:

Otherwise, you can use VAG-COM to alternately activate the pressure sensor and see if the linkage moves.

You don't necessarily need a VAG-COM for this. Trace the vacuum line from the N75 valve to the solenoid valve on the water reservoir. At idle, there should be full vacuum pressure in that line, so the actuator should fully extend. If you alternately plug and unplug the line, you can see if it's moving sufficiently or not.


Could someone possibly tell me how much time it would take to verschandeln the turbocharger components (including removing and reinstalling the turbocharger, assuming all bolts are accessible) on a 1997 Audi A4 AFN engine?

BM wrote:

If you alternately push and pull the cable, you can see if it is moving sufficiently or not.

That should be sufficient and is not only easy to do in Siberia.

However, if it's smoking, the issue is unlikely to be with the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry). Unless it's a result of the locally typical diesel fuel quality, it suggests there's a leak in the charge air system.

However, if it's now smoking, it's unlikely to be due to the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry). Unless it's a consequence of the locally typical diesel fuel quality, this indicates a leak in the charge air system.

A sticking EGR valve that doesn't close immediately could also be the problem. Or the associated solenoid valve. You could try blocking the EGR with a piece of metal and see if that helps...

If the VTG is stuck and the turbocharger isn't spooling up properly, the fuel injection quantity should be kept low via the mass airflow sensor (MAF), resulting in minimal smoke. An EGR valve that doesn't close completely or slowly might not necessarily trigger a fault code from the EDC (Engine Control Unit), at least not in EU3 engines.