G3 Tuerschloss friert "seltsam" zu | Posts 16+

The Safelock system uses electromagnets installed in each door. These electromagnets are activated by two separate circuits (one for each side of the vehicle) powered by a pump.

However, only the later models came with central locking. It's also very nice to see in the SLP (presumably referring to a specific configuration or image).

Quote:

The Safelock works via electromagnets,

Yes, I knew it .

I actually pulled on the button, and the way it retracted so quickly and firmly, it must have been an electromagnetic mechanism.

I don't trust anything from Volkswagen anymore, not even the service manuals or other documents (after the ESP connector fiasco and other errors).

It hasn't been this cold in two nights, so the button wasn't frozen, and today I'm finally getting my garage back.

But I need to check the door anyway, because it's also difficult to open when it's warm.

m;

As I mentioned before, I suspect that if it's not working properly even when warm, the lock (not the cylinder) is corroded or the grease that was originally present has dried out. That's what happened to me. Disassembling and lubricating it has helped so far. However, you won't achieve anything without removing the lock.

Okay, so...
I just took the plastic plug out of the door.

Then you'll reach the Torx screws for the opening lever, and also its "bearings."
That was completely dry.

Now, at least, the door can be opened easily again - let's see if the lock still freezes.

m;

Here's another variation of the problem with "key cars":

"In our Ibiza, the driver's side door lock freezes almost every winter, every few weeks: either the key won't go all the way in, or it won't turn even a millimeter."

I would then always (or as a preventative measure) spray "a lot" of engine oil and/or mineral-based gear oil into the lock. This helped for a while, but not really permanently.

Now, I had to remove the driver's side lock because a part of it was broken. While doing so, I discovered that the locking cylinder mechanism, at least from the outside, was heavily greased from the factory.

The passenger-side cylinder is completely dry in comparison - and has never frozen (it was used as a starting point when the driver's door wouldn't open).

Can anyone make sense of this? I previously thought that a thick layer of grease should prevent water from seeping into the lock .

Perhaps it was a fat that has a melting point of 0 degrees Celsius.

So, including "einfriert" .

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Perhaps it was a fat that had a melting point of 0 degrees. So, including "einfriert"

.
I'm less inclined to believe that: in that case, it would have had to be blocked on every morning with frost.
However, that wasn't the case: it could only happen again (when the temperature was below zero) after x weeks had passed since the last oil bath.

...I also want to share my experiences with you. I've actually been driving cars with central locking and remote control for a long time. My first Polo 6N was one of them. Since I hadn't used a key in the ignition even once in those 6 years, I thought about testing that function before selling it. The key went in everywhere, but nowhere could I turn it. I then started taking things apart, and sure enough, it was hopelessly rusted. Not a single drop of grease to be found. The trunk lock was the worst affected, probably because it was always exposed to the water splashing up from the ground behind the car. Perhaps this was a long-neglected issue with the 6N or even Ulf's Ibiza models. The Polo was manufactured in 1996.
For my Golf and the other one we have here, as well as the Audi A2, I now perform a "functional check" once a month, as long as I remember. On my Golf, there's a slight stiffness in the rear hatch lock, but everything else works perfectly.
There might be more fat present.

Do you think I should also add some graphite grease to the locks, considering my usage patterns? I don't want to experience the "Polo drama" again right before the end.

I think this is getting too theoretical now.

But if the fat gradually accumulates and "encapsulates" water droplets, they will freeze solid below 0 degrees Celsius. However, because of the fat, they are in a critical position and can block the lock.

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

I think this is getting too theoretical now: But if the fat gradually "collects" and somehow "encapsulates" water droplets, they will freeze solid below 0 degrees Celsius. However, because of the fat, they are in a critical position and can block the lock.

Well, a little theory can often save hours of tinkering + costs .

I had also considered the possibility of moisture in the fat... but fat is usually water-repellent, isn't it?
Why is it said that the speculative water in the grease can be removed by injecting more oil into the keyway?

And why doesn't the passenger door lock, which isn't greased, freeze up even more? Every single water droplet can easily seep in .

Yesterday, I also removed the driver's side door lock cylinder from the Polo and thoroughly "treated" it inside and out with silicone spray.
-> If it were to block again this winter, while I'm still trying to enter from the right, then that "essentially impossible" problem would at least be reproducible .

On the passenger side, the water might leak out again, while something like that is conceivable on the left side:

Fat --> water <-- Fat

And the water can either flow back or freeze, becoming trapped.

And the time it takes for this phenomenon to occur is precisely the time it takes for the water to penetrate between the fat layers.

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

On the passenger side, the water might also leak out again, while something like that is conceivable on the left side: Fat --> water <-- Fat And the water can either flow back or freeze, becoming trapped. And the time it takes for this phenomenon to occur is precisely the time it takes for the water to get between the fat barriers.

Mmh, yes, that idea has something to it .

I started the attempt on the Polo (which was supposed to be a safe preventative measure ), let's see what happens.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

...I also want to share my experiences with you. I've actually been driving cars with central locking and remote control for a long time. My first Polo 6N was one of them. Since I hadn't used a key in the ignition even once in those 6 years, I also thought about testing that function before selling it. The key went in everywhere, but nowhere could you turn it. I then started taking things apart, and sure enough, it was hopelessly rusted. Not a single drop of grease to be found. The trunk lock was the worst affected, which is understandable since it was always exposed to the water splashing up from behind the car. Perhaps this was long neglected in the 6N or even in Ulf's Ibiza models. The Polo was manufactured in 1996. For my Golf and the other one we have here, as well as the Audi A2, I now perform a "functional check" once a month, as long as I remember. On my Golf, there's a slight stiffness in the rear hatch lock, but everything else works perfectly. There might be more fat present. Do you think that I should also put some graphite grease into the locks, considering my usage patterns?

I don't want to experience the "Polo drama" again right before the end. }

I also experienced this issue with my G III when I retrofitted the radio remote control. The driver's door lock was already stiff in the first year. I actually expected a replacement under warranty, but the workshop sprayed in a special Teflon spray ("Multiflon"). At least in two different workshops, this is used during every regular service. After applying the spray, the locks worked like new. From then on, I used it 1-2 times per winter, and I never had any more problems.

"On my G IV, I'm experiencing the same issue with the tailgate as you are. I use Multiflon lubricant once or twice per winter to prevent this, and I also apply it preventatively to the driver's side door. After that, freezing and sticking are no longer a problem."

VAG and the castles...
So, at least with the A6 models up to 1998, the 35i, and the Golf III (and I assume also the 6N), they never figured it out. I'd like to know what kind of ridiculously dry climate chambers they used for the tests on those vehicles.
My detailed experiences:
'With my Golf III, I experience the same issue as Rudi and Martin: depending on the temperature, the car either immediately relocks after unlocking with the remote key fob, or the passenger door remains unlocked. The first issue isn't a problem for me because my car was manufactured with reinforced components. The second issue doesn't bother me either, as I usually drive alone. However, it becomes a problem on weekends when my girlfriend wants to get in.'
'But none of that is a problem! My Passat was much worse! The car would always freeze up at -20°C, with 10cm of ice forming on it after being parked over the weekend. You'd put the key in the lock, and all the doors, including the trunk and fuel cap, would be unlocked. But once something opened, it wouldn't close again! At least, the front doors wouldn't lock for the first 10-20 km, meaning you had to manually lock them until the locks thawed. It was a real pain. I tried everything, taking the locks apart, cleaning them, re-greasing them, and all the linkages, but nothing worked. The next morning, the same thing would happen. My elderly neighbor had the same problem with his A6 from 1996; he also had to hold his door closed for a few kilometers. The advantage for him was that he had a gasoline engine, so the heater warmed up faster.'

Best regards,
Dominique.

D. Kurz wrote:

Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. "But what was initially working, stopped working! At least the front doors wouldn't lock for the first 10-20 kilometers, meaning until the locks thawed. Man, that was incredibly hard work. And I had tried everything: I removed the locks, cleaned them, re-greased them, and checked all the linkages – everything was a mess!" ...

Enjoy your meal!

My 35i also had the same problem, and since last winter, I've always carried a can of spray lubricant with me, which I use whenever...
After I place something on the heating element, and if there's any doubt, I'll use it to potentially affect the locking mechanism.
thaw.
It's a nuisance to always have to carry the can with you, but it's still better than holding the door.
must.

Hi, Jockel.

Hi,

The problem with the 35i is definitely these plastic covers on the lock. It seems they are oddly prone to cracking or shrinking over time...
Since I modified it with the Dremel, my wife likes to drive the car again in the winter .

Best regards from Berlin.

Olli.