Kühlwasserverlust nach längerer Autobahnfahrt | Posts 16+

Hello,
According to VW, this is permitted.

I would now be very cautious about how I handle that statement .

Hello,
According to VW, this is permitted.

I would now be very cautious about how I handle that statement .

Hello,
I'm not doing it, and I don't recommend it either.
I've heard from inside sources at VW that the VTG-ATL (Variable Turbine Geometry - Anti-Lag System) shuts down very quickly after the engine is turned off, making it harmless in that state.
The worst thing would be if the oil in the automatic transmission (ATL) starts to coke up!
Best regards,
Günther.

Hello.

Okay, I had similar problems with my A6 (engine code: AAT). In my case, it was the water pump, but unfortunately, I didn't notice it soon enough because it's so well hidden. Now I'm dealing with an engine failure because it ate something and destroyed my timing belt.

@Tractor Driver:
The water pump on my Avenue Klima is driven by the timing belt (or V-belt). I hope that I won't encounter this problem, as the valve control system is not affected.
If any of these belts were to break, either the oil pressure warning light or the charging warning light would immediately come on, and I would immediately pull over to the right side of the road to check what's wrong.

Otherwise, the question is:
I will replace the timing belt in the spring. Should I proactively replace the water pump (I saw a new one from Ruville online for €14.99 - a great price!)?

Hello everyone,
To get it out of the way: the people from the ZKD were probably right!
Sorry!

Here's a description of the symptoms that have appeared since then:
After the coolant losses initially only occurred during longer highway drives,
They gradually expanded, starting with short trips and eventually extending to daily commutes to work.
In the end, I had to add a liter every day.
Water is trickling out of the outlet channel of the expansion tank.
(regarding the pressure relief valve on the lid).
Traces can be seen under and around the balancing tank.
Otherwise, there are no signs of cooling water anywhere.
Neither inside the car nor anywhere else in the engine compartment.
The coolant temperature is always stuck at 90°C.
I also heard a gurgling/bubbling sound twice in the cylinder head area.
(Engine switched off, hood open).
When the engine is turned off, you can hear a hissing sound coming from the expansion tank.
(Pressure relief valve in the lid) and there are traces of coolant visible at the outlet channel of the same.
During the pressing process, the system is sealed, and the pressure relief valve on the lid releases pressure intermittently.
1.3 and 1.5 bar.
Typically, the loss occurs at higher speeds (BAB driving).
and/or when operating under higher load (after an increase).
During the expansion tank test, bubbles already appear at idle speed.
At higher speeds, increasingly smaller bubbles are formed.
which, however, tend to become increasingly prone to overflowing.
I once noticed the following phenomenon:
I drove for 5 minutes, with the coolant level previously being correct, until I reached an incline.
With the engine running (coolant temperature below 70°C), the level had risen slightly (OK).
I drove the 5km-long incline (uphill), and while the engine was still running, the level was above...
Approximately 1 cm above the maximum level, turn off the engine. The liquid level has now dropped suddenly.
It's about 1.5cm below the minimum level. I'll park the car about 4km further down the road.
Water level in the balancing reservoir is now almost empty.
That perfectly matches the symptoms Thomas experienced with his timing chain issue at 212,000 km.

When tightening the cylinder head bolts, the torque wrench (with a setting of 60 Nm) was used.
All the screws immediately came loose (I didn't turn them any further).
'However, since then, the water loss has been significantly lower.'
The hissing seems to be less pronounced, but it's still there.

A timing belt replacement is definitely overdue (241,000 km, the first one was replaced at 120,000 km).
Although the timing belt still looks perfectly fine; it has been checked every 10,000 km after reaching 210,000 km.
Here's how I'm handling the ZKD change together with everything else.
I am replacing the V-belt, ribbed V-belt, tensioner pulley, timing belt, and idler pulley.
and KW screw (for 1Z engine) - not applicable for hydraulic lifters or solid lifters (oil consumption with 5W40 at 0.05-0.1 liters/10,000 km is acceptable).

I bought a water purifier because it was so cheap at 15 euros.
I'm still undecided about whether to install them yet.
(It's hard to get there with the air conditioning on), and I want to complete the ZKD+ZR course in one day.
I need to get a car, as I need transportation. I've only replaced a timing chain tensioner on motorcycles so far.
Therefore, I need to factor in some extra time for unforeseen circumstances.
I'll tackle that this weekend.
Hi broesel,

You don't necessarily have to replace the Wapu, as it's not powered by the ZR.

One day should be enough; I disassembled everything during one afternoon when I changed it, and reassembled it the next day. It's certainly much faster to do, but you don't want to miss anything.
This might be of interest to you.
/viewtopic.php?t=5693&highlight=zkd
And be sure to check the head for any signs of damage!

and yet another one with the well-known problem of a blown head gasket...

Great that you got back to me to clarify the problem!

Regards,
arne

Okay, thanks for letting us know again.
If you're already working on the coolant system and the water pump is readily available, just go ahead and tackle the timing belt as well, and you'll have everything done in one go.
Otherwise, you'll have to buy more coolant soon, and good quality coolant isn't cheap, especially since the old coolant needs to be disposed of properly if you don't reuse it.

@Günther:
'It didn't seem very plausible to me (I couldn't really imagine it happening).'
that without any white smoke, such a rapid and significant loss of coolant through the head gasket is unlikely.
Meanwhile, I can explain it (you never stop learning).


@Arne:
It was obvious.
One should contribute to the forum.
I have also benefited enough from forum posts.
I just wanted to wait until the problem worsened in everyday use.
to be able to narrow it down more effectively.


I saw the post yesterday.
Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.
closely examined (this includes, among other things:
What happens to the cylinder head bolts and the head gasket when they are tightened and during operation?
and now, some things are becoming clear to me. Typically, I drive my car twice a day for 35 minutes each time.
with a speed of less than 120 km/h. So far, no (longer) vacation trips.
The problem then appeared during an initial 7-8 hour long BAB (German Autobahn) drive.
(A friend who was driving nearly the entire distance drove at speeds of 150-180 km/h).
I believe the pre-tension hysteresis ZK screw/ZKD gasket was the cause.
(7-8 hours of engine hot phase ZK screw stretched preload increased hysteresis.
The initial tension has decreased over time).
I might be able to fix it by tightening the ZK screws, as mentioned above.
The forum post also describes a residual hissing sound coming from the expansion tank.
get rid of; Assuming the ZKD hasn't already eliminated any damage.
I think I don't have much to lose, and the effort involved is limited.
What do you think ?


Regarding the coolant, I have one more question:
I previously had G11 (green-blue) in it.
I just bought three 1-liter bottles of BASF Lila (G12+), which cost 4.90 euros each. According to the forum, it's compatible.
See
It now says: Recommended for Alumotors!

In the repair manual for my car, it says:
Block made of gray cast iron, head made of lightweight metal (aluminum ).
Do I have a problem there now http://www.basf.de/basf/html/d/produkte/gebiete/glysanti/produkte/g30.htm?

Hi broesel,

Hi Broesel,

The purple G12+ was specifically introduced to replace the G12 (for VW), and it's marketed for that purpose. There were some internal inconsistencies at one point, but I haven't heard anything about them recently. Therefore, it shouldn't be a problem.

Regards,
arne

Since last Saturday, when I tightened the cylinder head bolts with my makeshift method (60 Nm), I haven't had any more coolant leaks (only the reduced hissing sound from the expansion tank). And that's despite the fact that no screw appeared to be any looser, and the water loss before that was truly significant, at 1 liter per day.

I've decided to tighten the cylinder head bolts this weekend using Albrecht's method.
Loosen each screw individually (leaving all others tightened), tighten to the specified torque, and then rotate another 90 degrees. You do this with all the ZK screws one after another. Then, finally, tighten everything again, crossing over, for the remaining 90 degrees. This should restore the originally specified tension. If the cylinder head gasket is still leaking, it means you haven't put in much work.


After that, I will carefully analyze it (while possibly moving the box closer) and see if the hissing sound has also disappeared.
Until I'm certain, I will postpone the ZR replacement/coolant change, etc.

I'm really curious to see if the ZKD was able to weather these challenges without any negative consequences. It would be a shame if the timing chain tensioner failed after the timing chain replacement.

Greetings and have a nice weekend!
Crumbs.

Hello,

I have now tightened the ZK screws using Albrecht's method.
I was able to loosen all the screws with a similar torque.
To ensure the 90-degree angles were accurate, I needed a longer lever (approximately 1 meter).
- had to exert considerable force to get the rotation to be relatively even.
The screws did not exhibit any uneven behavior.
After a long drive on the highway,
However, I experienced some fluid loss again.
with normal driving, there is no noticeable difference.

However, sooner or later, the ZKD (certificate of deposit) will mature.
(She probably suffered too much.)

I will inform you after the change.

Hi broesel,

Sure, here's the translation:

"Four notes on this:"
"Expansion bolts expand by a defined amount when turned further. They are designed to do exactly that. If you loosen them, they will not retract, as the expansion was non-elastic. If you tighten them again and turn them another 90 degrees, you will over-stretch the bolts. There is a high risk of them tearing, and the holding force will be drastically reduced." Consequently, the risk of kidney damage increases significantly.

2. If hot exhaust gases occasionally leak through a slightly damaged ZD (presumably referring to a gasket or seal), it can leave traces on the engine block and cylinder head. Therefore, even with a slightly damaged carburetor, you shouldn't drive too far, as you risk damaging the engine head and/or the cylinder block.

3. I wouldn't drive that anymore.

4. Is that, of course, your business .

Regards,
Guste.

Hello Guste,

Sure, here's the translation:

'Regarding point 1:'
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'This was a suggestion in the following thread: /viewtopic.php?t=8172&highlight='
According to professional mechanic Albrecht, this issue was discussed and analyzed in detail. They suggested that tightening the bolt 2-3 times might be possible. However, it was a slightly different case because the symptoms were still in a very early stage.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Regarding points 2, 3, and 4:'
I would have continued as planned if everything had been okay. However, I won't have time to change everything until next Saturday. I'll keep using it for now - driving it twice a day for 35 minutes each time.

Hi broesel,

Hi,
The ZKD+ZR exchange seems to have worked out so far!

It took me approximately 17 hours on Saturday and Sunday. Since it was already foreseeable early on that...
Instead of rushing, I took the time I needed for certain things.
It took a relatively long time, as I've only done this on my motorcycle before.
When it comes to the truly important, 'difficult,' and interesting things.
There weren't actually any problems.
Sure, I can help with that. Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.
What problems should I solve, where, using what methods and tools?
(These took the most time and effort!)
Often, the descriptions in books or catalogs are not detailed enough.
- Drain the coolant (it's difficult to access due to the air conditioning compressor).
Then, only the part in the radiator was running, until I adjusted the hose towards the thermostat.
(By tapping it gently with a wooden stick, you can access the hose that's lying on top.)
- Electrical connections (there were also 3 connections on the coolant connection fitting).
on the front side of the ZK. Does anyone know what kind of device this is?
The retaining bracket of the central connector must be unscrewed, etc.
Common problems when you're doing something for the first time!

The rear ZR shield can only be removed with the ESP wheel removed.
However, I didn't want to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor. However, a [something] runs through the sheet metal.
Head bolt (used to attach the tensioner pulley). However, the sheet metal is...
A circular recess, approximately 2-3 cm in diameter, was created around the bolt. Then I simply used the winch to...
Head raised by 2cm and then swung to the side.

The alignment gauge for the NW (on the older ZR) was not exactly in the center.
(Slight gap, approximately 0.6mm, which could be closed by pushing the ruler into it with some effort).
I then carefully adjusted it using feeler gauges when I replaced the timing belt.

I didn't need the timing light with the adapter - the engine started right up.
The dynamic adjustment worked as well! (I checked the injection pressure adjustment tension.)
previously placed inside the vehicle and measured by an analog meter.
Adjusted measurement range to 15V. The full range of 0V to 14V is utilized.
The display now appears less erratic than before (with the old timing belt, it sometimes...).
Overshoot (before). Furthermore, the engine exhibits good performance at low RPM and high torque.
More refined/with less vibration.

I replaced the coolant with G12+ (BASF G30, Premium Alu Protect).
(previously, G11 was included).
So far, there has been no noticeable water leakage, and the hissing sound from the...
The sound of the container lid is no longer audible. I've only used the engine so far.
driven at a low speed.
Tonight, I'm going to give him a harder time.

I also have the entire process documented in an Excel sheet.
(Summarized with tips and tricks, and a tool/torque specification column.) When it's ready.
I will post it here.

greetings broesel