Jetbooster Probleme.... TDI PD TUNING | Posts 16+

Okay, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.
I'm now certain that it's related to the boost pressure... a new VAG version has been released.
I'm going to try reducing the power in the higher RPM range (specifically, the extra power) and see what happens.

Hello,

As Bertil already hinted, there is definitely no power box available for TDI engines (including PD engines) that could increase the turbo boost pressure.

Your problem is not related to the power box.
I suspect you might be encountering the same problem when you reconfigure the device, so be careful about adjusting its characteristics before you start.

So, first, let's check the hardware, and then we can start dealing with those 'stupid' boxes.

'Please take some logs with VCDS so we can assess the boost pressure behavior and regulation.'

Hi Thomas,

... as Bertil already hinted, there is definitely no power box for the TDI (including PD) that could increase the boost pressure.

Allegedly, the Jetbooster is supposed to be able to do it . It would be feasible, as the boost pressure sensor is not located in the control unit (unlike the older MSA15).
Whether it will actually be done... that would require at least a detailed installation guide.

Best regards,
Rudi

So, the Jetbooster can do it (as can many other professional-grade boxes... even though some people might not believe that).
It would be interesting to trick the engine control unit (ECU) into thinking the pressure is lower than it actually is (perhaps by using a small resistor... hmm). However, it would be foolish if this caused the base operating map to become inaccurate, leading to a lean fuel mixture due to the incorrect data.


I will create the logs as soon as possible.

Poldi wrote:

... therefore, if it becomes too thin due to incorrect data...

Are you aware that a diesel engine always operates with an excess of air, and that the "mixture" can never be "too lean"?

I'm just thinking that if I tell the engine control unit that the boost pressure is lower than it actually is (meaning there's more air than expected in the cylinder)... could that potentially cause problems?
(a mixture can always be too lean, especially with turbos – I've had some terrible experiences with the G60 turbocharger).
I'm familiar with the issue of excessive air intake (that's where all those cheap tuning parts come into play).

The question now is whether I can achieve a result by modifying the boost pressure signal and lengthening the aforementioned screw, or whether this is not feasible.

"A mixture can always be too lean..."

...Your first diesel, huh?

As Ulf already mentioned, try making the VTG rod a bit longer, but do it gradually. However, since you're talking about a "screw," I assume you haven't read any technical articles or even taken a look under the hood.
You were given assistance, but if you don't want to try it, it's better to disassemble the box again.

Rudi wrote:

Hi Thomas, Quote: ... as Bertil already hinted, there is definitely no power box for the TDI (including PD) that could increase the boost pressure. Allegedly, the Jetbooster is supposed to be able to do it . It would be feasible, since the boost pressure sensor is not located in the control unit (as was the case with the older MSA15). Whether it will actually be done... that would require at least a detailed installation guide.

"It's technically possible, but it's unlikely that the increased boost pressure could be accurately read through the diagnostic system. Without a software modification, the engine control unit (ECU) wouldn't accept this increased boost pressure."

...Because without a software modification, the engine control unit (ECU) would not accept this increased boost pressure.

or counter-regulations, to bring the desired and actual values back into alignment. Then, the permissible deviation...
When the duty cycle is exceeded -> emergency mode.


Best regards,
Rudi

Quote:

The Jetbooster auxiliary control unit in my (101 hp PD TDI Golf) increases the boost pressure from 1.05 to 1.25 bar - furthermore, I can adjust at which engine speed and pedal position it injects an additional amount of fuel... I've tried everything, but the result is always the same: "Above a speed of 180 km/h, I experience a near-complete loss of boost pressure after only a few seconds (measured with VAG-COM), which I can't explain. I've tried everything (more fuel, less fuel, a new air filter, you never know), but I always get the same result. What's strange is that the more fuel it gets at this speed, the sooner it loses power (although it's only by a few seconds). When I restart the engine (it's always a bit critical around 200 km/h), it runs normally again until it loses power again. This makes me think that the engine might be going into limp mode, and after restarting the engine control unit, it runs normally again (although there are no error codes in the diagnostic memory)." Does anyone have any ideas about what I might be doing wrong, or what might be wrong with my engine? Also, does anyone know how to best determine how much more fuel injection I should add at which RPM? hmpf "A problem with the part (and then at THAT price (new: €749)... they don't even send a working "map" with just one demo file... + €300 if you want it customized for your vehicle -- I think it's outrageous)." Well... If anyone knows anything, please post it or contact me directly. Thank you

.

Attempting to cancel the purchase from the tuner due to "gross misconduct."
Don't mess around with parameters you don't fully understand – it's guaranteed to go wrong. What you've acquired can easily be soldered yourself for just a few cents.



Hi Poldi,
"I get sick just looking at this kind of tuning. You've paid a lot of money for the fastest way to ruin your engine and yourself – if it even worked. Fortunately, the EDC (Electronic Diesel Control) protects itself from this nonsense (limp mode due to permanent deviation, the so-called "fear map" due to exceeding peak pressure), so you should be glad."
Of course, you're experiencing a fault memory event. You shouldn't restart the engine, but rather read the fault codes first. So, when the engine goes into limp mode, gradually slow down – don't give it any more gas – and then read the fault codes. Ideally, do this while also recording the environmental conditions (if your diagnostic tool can do that, a specialist should be consulted).
"Sorry, but you can only help yourself if you either quickly fix this mess or acquire enough knowledge about diesel engines and their control systems to understand the problems and solve them yourself. But then, you'll definitely want to get rid of this mess."

That makes your blood boil - considering the price.

...I can only say that the VAG tool displays a value of 1.25 bar above normal pressure (maximum).
I've optimized the 'characteristic map' with the help of a mechanical engineer so that no more emergency mode occurs (everything should be okay now). The exhaust flow and maximum speed are higher than before... hmm.


Just a note to certain 'professionals': A little more friendliness wouldn't hurt! As far as I know, the term 'constructive criticism' doesn't exist! Some people really need to get off their 'high horse' of self-importance and stop acting like they possess all the wisdom in the world!


Here's a different question: How accurate is the speed sensor, which can also be read using VAG software, since the speedometer is not a precise measuring instrument at higher speeds? (The speedometer shows approximately 1 mm before 210 km/h... does anyone know how accurate/inaccurate that is?)

Poldi wrote:

...I can only say that the VAG tool displays a value of 1.25 bar above normal pressure (maximum). I've optimized the "characteristic map" with the help of a mechanical engineer so that no more emergency mode occurs (everything should be okay now). The exhaust flow and maximum speed are higher than before... hmm. Just a note to certain "professionals": A little more friendliness wouldn't hurt! As far as I know, the term "constructive criticism" doesn't exist! Some people really need to get off their "high horse" of self-importance and stop acting like they possess all the wisdom in the world! Here's the translation: "Another question: how accurate is the speed sensor, which can also be read out using VAG software, since the speedometer is not an accurate measuring instrument at higher speeds? (The speedometer shows approximately 1 mm before 210 km/h... does anyone know how accurate/inaccurate that is?)

"

Hi Poldi,

Geschwindigkeit der EDC sollte bei deinem Golf auf +/- 1km/h genau sein, gilt aber nur für neue Serienbereifung. Speedometer usually +7%.

Just a note about "constructive criticism" and arrogance. If you post your problems here, I will at least respond with my personal opinion and knowledge. My responses should not be offensive or unfriendly, but rather express my disapproval of such "tuners."

Imagine you go to the gym and ask a trainer for more endurance and muscle strength. The trainer comes up to you and says: "Here, let me give you a shot of anabolic steroids in your butt every day - it will only cost you 749 euros, and you can even decide the dosage yourself." That's a slap in the face to every qualified fitness trainer, and that's how I feel too.
"Why don't you ask your 'mechanical engineer' what happens when you increase the boost pressure by 250 mbar under full load, without adjusting the fuel injection timing, intercooler, or any other parameters. If you're going to tune, do it properly."

Hi,

Quote:

Here's another question: How accurate is the speed sensor, which can also be read using VAG software, since the speedometer is not a precise measuring instrument at higher speeds? (The speedometer shows approximately 1 mm before 210 km/h... does anyone know how accurate/inaccurate that is?)

Think about how all of this works.

The wheel rotations are counted, and the speed is calculated based on the approximate circumference of the wheel and the time. The more accurately the wheel circumference is known, the more accurate the speed can be determined (and, if necessary, adjusted upwards for the speedometer display to ensure there is no underreporting, as that is prohibited). However, the wheel circumference is unfortunately not known because the tires wear down over time, and there are also significant (permissible) tolerances.

If you want to know the exact distance, you need to measure it externally. Using a stopwatch and distance markers is an inaccurate method, while a GPS device provides a more precise measurement.

Best regards,

Jan.

Thank you for the information.

Jan6K wrote:

.....the exact one is a GPS device.

"And on my speedometer, it shows 205, but the GPS shows 188... which exactly matches the value listed in the vehicle registration document."

Hello,
Throw that 'thing' away and enjoy a 'working' engine!
Or 'save up' for a new engine.
Best regards,
Günther.