Crankshaft Rotation: Remove Glow Plugs. | Posts 32+

garth.brooks wrote:

Removing the spark plugs is a job that takes about 5 minutes.

Hi,

Okay, if that's what you mean... In my case, two spark plug threads were damaged, so the cylinder head had to be removed, sent away (I had to wait for 5 weeks with this awful website www.motorensuche.com), and then reinstalled.

It's absolutely no problem to overtighten the motor with a ratchet . You don't need to remove anything for that.

Hi Christian! What caused your threads to break?
Regards,
Holger.

What caused your threads to break?


1Z: Over-tightened threads.

Best regards, WarLord.

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

What caused your threads to break?

Hi Holger,

Aluminum and iron don't get along very well (contact corrosion). The glow plugs are simply corroded and stuck together over time. If you ever try to unscrew a bicycle pedal, you'll see how strongly these two metals can "fuse" together over time.

With spark plug threads, this is obviously problematic because then the cylinder head has to be lowered for the thread insert installation .

Hi Haenlein,

I had replaced all the injectors and glow plugs on my vehicle every 120,000 kilometers (approximately 75,000 miles) due to the PÖL system.

Everything came out cleanly, and then I carefully inserted all the fuses with copper paste – now it works as it should.


Furthermore, it's not aluminum and steel (no iron), but aluminum and nickel - and unfortunately, these two metals don't mix well, which is why metal pastes are used.

If, however, someone were to put cheap oil or even cheap grease into it, then... in this case, it's not VAG's fault.

Hmm... Copper paste seems to be some kind of miracle product. If you were to grind up copper scraps and cook the shavings with grease... Nah, just kidding. What does that stuff cost?

Regards,
Holger.

garth.brooks wrote:

(Not iron) but aluminum and nickel - and unfortunately, those don't mix well either, which is why we have metal pastes.

...learned something new again . I use "Anti-Seize" as a corrosion protection. This stuff is really great.

I think you misunderstood me. When twisting, an angular offset inevitably occurs between the ES line and the high-pressure connection. This means that the end of the ES line no longer meets the high-pressure connection at a 100% vertical angle. My thought was to determine within what limits the seal can still be guaranteed, or whether the sealing surface is not damaged when tightening at an angle.


Let me put it this way: with the prescribed 25 Nm of torque, it will NEVER seal again...

But otherwise, there have never been any problems. You can carefully bend the pipe a few degrees if necessary, but no more than that.

CU Gremlin.

Hi,

Yes, I also tightened my connections more than 25 Nm.
"The twisting isn't that bad; usually, you only twist it a little bit. Then the fuel injection lines will just be slightly crooked."

Best regards, Rainer.

Yes, I also tightened my connections more than 25 Nm.

Hey everyone, do you all have open ring keys as Dremo? What a luxury .

Regards,
Holger.

either this, or that.

- a good physics teacher.
- 25 years of experience.



CU Gremlin.

Do you use a spring scale to measure the pull force of the ring pull tab, or do you hang weights on it?

If it has to be...

'But my mechanic has been dealing with this for over 25 years. And, as mentioned, most connections never really seal or tighten properly, even when tightened to the specified torque.'
It probably works the same way as with Etzold, only if the part is on the assembly line.

The recent events involving oil pan screws and oil filter covers clearly demonstrate this .

CU Gremlin.

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

Quote: Yes, I also tightened my connections more than 25 Nm . Hey, do you all have open ring keys as Dremo? What a luxury . Regards, Holger

No, but 25 Nm is definitely less than what I tightened them to... I just kept tightening them until they were sealed .