Octavia 1 - Querlenkerbuchsen / Federbeintausch > Problem | Posts 32+

(Unlike the Ulf, the Ibiza had "complaints" *beforehand*, and I'm not talking about spiritual ones *fg*.)

*duck and cover*

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Unlike the Ulf, the Ibiza had "complaints" BEFOREHAND, and I'm not talking about spiritual ones *fg

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Only you could come up with a saying like that.
If Ibi is that sensitive, he should have done it the original way. Should remain shared.
According to them, "tinkering just for the sake of tinkering."

What is pointless about amortizing installments?

"First, I'm having CNC-milled parts made, specifically with the exact shape of the control arm. Second, I want to achieve the ride comfort and steering characteristics of rubber bushings, along with their durability, but without the vibrations."

I can't imagine that the gears and other components would appreciate the constant vibrations.

Since I won't be buying Octavia steering knuckles for the next 1-2 years, I'm left with the material I already have, which I can essentially have machined for free.

"At the same time, I'm looking for used control arms, so that if I find any, I can install the "good" ones."



Putting the legal aspects aside: The Audi S3 and Golf R32 have the same front axle as my 4x4, but with different control arms... Can I simply install those control arms? I mean, I've heard things about other ball joints...

So, while the cast link arms are rigid and resistant to twisting, they are also heavier.
Manufacturers put a lot of effort into minimizing the unsprung mass, which this control arm contributes to. "The thing is, a golf club is a mass-produced product, not a Ferrari, where you can make the handle stable and lightweight."
Your plan is nonsense. If the vibration goes away later (which I doubt), then it would be okay to put the original sockets back in.

RedR32 wrote:

Your plan is nonsense. Reinstall the original sockets,

and if the vibration goes away later (which I doubt), then it would be okay.
Right, especially if you only plan to drive it for a maximum of 2 years. However, standard sockets should be able to handle that without any problems.

The car will not be financially worthwhile for more than 2 years; eventually, the major repairs will start.

The ball bearings are running quietly, but it will probably be the only option in the end. It's a shame about the work and the wheel alignment for the standard solid tires, but I wasn't aware of the consequences.

Hi,

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but it will probably ultimately be the only option

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"Are you sure about installing the original bushings? No, that's not what's causing your vibration. I've already tried everything on my Golf." At 350,000 km, it started pulling to the side when accelerating.
"and is prone to vibration. After replacing quite a few other (unnecessary) things like engine mounts, a torque strut, and the dual-mass flywheel and clutch, and also trying different rubber bushings, with no improvement, I was on the verge of despair. Was the vibration just my imagination? No, other passengers confirmed that they could even feel a slight tingling in their feet. Then I remembered the joints, and I immediately went to Stahlgruber and bought two replacement driveshafts, complete with new joints. During the test drive, I was amazed – the car was making a loud, crazy roaring noise in a certain RPM range. I examined the replacement driveshafts more closely, and instead of a hollow shaft, I had been sold a solid one." It was almost as thick as the hollow wave usually is; otherwise, I would have noticed it right away when installing it. Since Gruber couldn't get me another wave, I put two new joints on my old hollow wave and repainted it.
Since the replacement of all four joints, there has been complete peace and quiet again.

It definitely applies to me. Before, it was completely quiet, but right after leaving the workshop after the bushing replacement, the vibration started.

On Friday, there will be new series sockets .


That action with the TT sockets was completely unnecessary. But with one experience richer...

Hi,

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on Friday, there will be new series of sockets. very unnecessary, the action with the TT sockets

Okay, wait a moment, wait until Friday, and then tell the truth .

If it's still vibrating, I'll bite through the control arm.

No, the vibration started abruptly with the change... so I'm optimistic. I'm just annoyed about a) the money spent on materials and installation, b) the time involved, and c) the pointless wheel alignment.

That's outrageous. Our tire shops charge €35 for the Octavia with front-wheel drive and €50 for the 4x4 model, even though the alignment is only adjusted on the front axle for both.

Octavia_4x4 wrote:

although in both cases, only the alignment at the front axle is adjusted...

No, not at all. Starting with the 2003 model year, the Golf 4-Motion, and consequently all vehicles that share the same axle (A3 Quattro, Octavia 4x4, TT Quattro, Leon 4-Motion), received new control arm struts with elongated hole bushings. Therefore, at your bike, the toe-in and camber can be adjusted at the rear axle.

Really? The alignment at the rear is out of spec, it's been like that since I got the car, something like -1.30'...

and every single tire shop claims that on my car, which was manufactured in February 2003, nothing can be adjusted at the rear. Do you perhaps have any documentation that you could send me?

In 2006, we had a case where a stabilizer bar link broke at the bearing. Subsequently, we replaced all four links, so presumably the new ones are currently installed.


Which strut should be removed, the upper or the lower one? And if so, which one, the front or the rear (i.e., the one connected to the all-wheel-drive transfer case)?


That would be great if that were actually possible. And then it would be worth the 50 euros... but the people here always just set the track and that's it.

Octavia_4x4 wrote:

Do you loosen the upper or lower strut?

And if so, the front or the rear (i.e., the side connected to the all-wheel drive transmission)?
I have no idea, I just know that these things exist. I haven't installed them myself because of MJ. 02. But anyway, you can hardly adjust anything. It was only done to compensate for the 30mm difference between the off-road suspension (:wink:5mm compared to standard) and the sport suspension (-15mm compared to standard). I installed something like that, and it actually makes a bit of a difference [img]:

[/img]http://www.maxtrac-germany.com/images/strebegrosshr.jpg{MARKER}

Okay, I just checked Google, so basically, you're supposed to loosen the bolts on both sides of the wheel, adjust the camber, and tighten them to 70 Nm, then rotate them another 90 degrees... I think that's a bit too much torque for that relatively small bolt... I'm going to a different tire shop now, which is supposedly more competent. We'll see .


The lower struts, who manufactured them? They certainly cost a few euros .

Octavia_4x4 wrote:

The lower braces, who manufactured them? They probably cost a few euros

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H&R and KW both offer them. The costs for both are approximately €250.