Praxiswerte: 0,216mm-Düsen im AFN | Posts 32+

I now also have the 0.216 nozzles for my AFN
Average time is approximately 0.2 seconds better
I thought that the nozzles alone would be more effective
He is no longer as spontaneous in his response to the accelerator pedal. (Higher opening pressure of the new nozzles )
How can I adjust the pump (preferably with an image) or is that possible with VAGcom ?
No soot is visible

Can I easily activate my old P-Box?

Best regards,

Dennis

@ Dennis

Have you ever tested the starting of the injection?

With VAGCOM Group 000 basic settings.

@ thomas

Type 11 Beetle 1302

Awesome, Geil, TDI with T4 bumpers

Is the certificate valid?!?!?! Where did he get the correct target values from then?

Please check the fuel injector system sometime.

Can I still get some extra power out of an earlier or optimal injection timing

The current consumption at idle is now 0.8 - 1 L. Previously it was 0.6
How can I change it
Could it be that my MFA is no longer working as accurately ?

I also installed the large nozzles, but it's smoking heavily at full load...unfortunately, I also just installed exhaust pipes.
I have increased the boost pressure to 1.15 bar using a resistor, and I can say that there is a slight difference in soot production.
(Okay, I've been using a chip that's not compatible for quite some time, and a new one is currently in development )

But the performance increase has far exceeded my expectations, significantly better acceleration, a Vmax 10km/h higher (although this could also be due to the fact that the original, original nozzles had also already reached 220,000km), and the fuel consumption remains absolutely identical.

The problem is just that I'm too hesitant to really go all out, especially if there's someone behind me who could potentially wash their car in front of me afterward

I hope that with the new control unit, this problem will be resolved....otherwise, I will have to fill up with Aldi oil before the inspection (the soot particles from this oil will probably not be detected by the measuring device), but I have about 7 months until the inspection.

"Although this thread is quite old, I would also like to share my experiences:"

The car performs better across the entire RPM range, with a nice, even feel...and there's no haze visible through the rear window.
"I've also tried a few tuning boxes, but they all perform worse than a simple replacement of the injectors. There's no longer such a smooth and consistent acceleration, and I'm producing significantly more soot."
Tomorrow, I will measure the time from 2000 to 4000 revolutions.

So, I wasn't expecting such a good result from a direct swap without any software adjustments.

Here's the summary:

- The car starts well, with no signs of excessive wear.
- Subjectively, the car already accelerates better from 1500 rpm
- Smooth power delivery, no jerking
- No visible exhaust fumes, I should take a look when I'm driving past my car.

Don't forget that older Duesen often have a few miles on them, which means an additional positive effect comes into play.
How many kilometers did the old Dusen have, and did you have them re-manufactured?

180,000 were gone. They were stripped, three were still in good condition, but the needle hub's nozzle was no longer... Therefore, it was already worth it for this reason alone.

Hello. Here's a quick overview of my experiences with the 0.216 nozzles:

At 130,000 km
Sold a year ago with 340,000 km - Engine/Turbo in perfect condition.

Overall, a noticeably smoother and more responsive feel, especially at higher engine speeds.
With the switchable 10 cent tuning, it was really great. The car was stuck - compared to
before - very good acceleration.

With increased pressure of 1.2 bar and 10 cent tuning, it's amazing how long the machine lasted. But unfortunately, it's too much for the ZMS.

Again better, but with soot: Without LMM, with 10cent tuning and increased boost pressure. Please, no discussion about the 'spillover effect' principle. It worked for me - for me!

Hello, how are you?

M

ha ha ha... and here's the reality check... I just stopped the time from 2000 to 4000 rpm, which was between 6.4s and 6.9s... previously, I had between 6.1s and 6.6s... incredibly(!) I could have sworn it was better... and now the values are even worse.... or could it be that it's better underneath and worse above...? should I also set the opening pressure on the larger nozzles to 190 bar instead of 210 bar?

Greetings

Did you install 210s when 190s should have been installed? If so, no wonder it's not working anymore. The start of spraying has been delayed!
Either adjust the pump slightly earlier, or readjust the nozzles.

Hi,

yes, they are 210s, but it's supposedly not a problem? Ulf also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also also

Greetings

Do you perhaps know how the initial spraying phase was before the renovation? Right, late deadline, early deadline?

hmm, I mean, I had previously compared all the measurement blocks with the target values, and everything was fine. I can certainly take another look at it.

so, these are my target values according to: List

Idle 2nd shift..4th shift Full load 8..12th shift

Does the needle positioner then provide the actual values?

how can I adjust the values? do I have to tinker around with the pump?

Greetings

Quote:

190bar -> 220bar Starting the spray at this pressure is too late!

No problem, the system easily compensates as long as the pump isn't completely worn out.

The higher opening pressure of the first stage ensures a slightly lower overall fuel flow, but reduces fuel consumption and improves emissions at very low injection rates due to better atomization.

Hi, Rainer

dieselschrauber wrote:

Don't worry, it's fine, just at the start, the control system compensates perfectly, as long as the pump isn't completely worn out.

And the static setting isn't that it's already at the early start position with 190mm nozzles at full throttle.

hmm yes, I need to check that out... The problem is also that he only reaches 190 km/h on a straight road, and that was also the case with the old nozzles. Also, I also used a diode as a replacement for the LMM, and I'm having the same problem