Audi 4-Gang Automatikgetriebe (097, CEB) Grundeinstellung | Posts 32+

Sounds logical, but take a look at the following Screenshot:

{IMAGE}

It should therefore actually have the "On/Off/Next" button. As you can also see, pressing this button initiates the default settings, because it says "Default Settings=On" in red at the top.

And now?

In the GSTG shown there, a corresponding special treatment was performed in VCDS.
programmed. Regarding the old Digimat (presumably due to a lack of documentation or relevance).
On / Off / Next doesn't make sense in the Digimat generation because there isn't an "on/off/next" option.
Only a single comparison is performed - the comparison of the accelerator pedal - and for this
- I'll just say - does sending the 000 suffice?

What is in MWB 001?

Mike3BG wrote:

..What do you mean by "If the values in MWB1 are correct"? I can't see that, can I? Currently, the old DK potentiometer is still there, so the values are actually plausible. But what could indicate that the values are incorrect?

I have specified the tolerance ranges for voltage and percentage (for no-load and full-load).
If all four values fall within these tolerances, then no adjustment is necessary.

It would be helpful if you could post the four values here.
(with old and new throttle valve pot)

Yes, I can post the values. Tonight with the old DK potentiometer. With the new one, it will take a little longer. I still need a few parts that will be replaced at the same time as the promotion. Because the 2.3E NG(2) runs, if you give it the "spores" and it gets extremely hot, sometimes with an increased idle speed (around 1100 rpm). Eventually, it will then come back down to normal speed. Suspect = DK-Poti.

While it doesn't quite belong here, I'm going to try it anyway:
And if he stands for a long time, he doesn't take off well, but even after 10 minutes in a warm state. One has to pedal extremely long, and he only moves slowly and unwillingly upwards, and it feels like he's not even running on all four legs. After a few seconds, he runs perfectly. Or, you can help him by adding some gas, which will also make it easier to start.

Tips, what could be there? Are there any NG professionals here, or just self-taught professionals? Anyway, I've already bought quite a bit:
Lambda sonde
Cold Start Valve
DK Potentiometer (only available for automatic models)
All ESD seals, including Beans
Almost all KGE and vacuum hoses
G62 and F76 Thermistors
Intake Manifold Gaskets
DK-Seal
Muzzle Ring
Spark plugs
Valve cover gasket (leaks quite a bit on the left side)

LLRV is smooth and clean.
LL switch in DK potentiometer disengages.
Despite this, it sometimes runs with an increased LL (Low-Level) speed. Wiggling and pressing on cables, connectors, and hoses did not produce any change at that moment. Disconnecting the Lambda=still high LL speed. Disconnecting the LL switch on the DK (Distribution Box)=even higher LL speed. Therefore, the LL switch should be functioning. Disconnecting G62=still increased LL speed. Disconnecting LLRV=even higher LL speed and strong suction noises. A restart only brought the RPM back down, not the infection. Then it ran again with at least a higher LL RPM.

Question: Do you know if the automatic system can also be activated remotely? Could the automatic system potentially send a signal to the MSG indicating that the car is in motion? Or can one say that the automatic system has nothing to do with it, when it is in "N" position while stationary?

Greetings

Is the throttle cable operated by a cable or electrically?
hg
Herbert

Classic cable-operated. However, it is new and properly adjusted, including the kickdown.

Greetings

Then you must be able to directly compare the DK-potentiometer values (voltage) from the gearbox's corresponding measuring block with the position of the accelerator pedal. Especially if the idle time is unexpectedly high.
I would systematically check before replacing it. This avoids additional errors. Have you ever thought about reading the MSG?
hg
Herbert

Mike3BG wrote:

And if he stands for a long time, he doesn't take off well, but even after 10 minutes in a warm state. One has to pedal extremely long, and he only moves slowly and unwillingly upwards, and it feels like he's not even running on all four legs. After a few seconds, he runs perfectly. Or, you can help him by adding some gas, which will also make it easier to start.

Hi,

something like that I once had on an ABK. It was the fuel pressure regulator. It was leaking, and it always took a little while for the pump to build up the pressure.
Replacing the fuel filter also makes sense.

Greetings from Berlin,
olli

The pressure regulator at the front of the flow divider, or the storage tank at the back of the pump?

@Herbert
Yes, I've thought about it, but the blinking is very cumbersome, so I haven't done it yet.
Someone once said that nothing was ever actually inside. "At that point, half the engine needs to be missing for it to start producing anything."
How can I clear the memory, or is it already cleared after turning off the ignition, because it's volatile?

Greetings

PS: I re-read all the MWB values with 0 gas and full throttle just now. With the result that all values are within the specified range!
Has anyone also an explanation for why Audi requires a basic setting to be performed after disconnecting the battery?

Mike3BG wrote:

The pressure regulator at the front of the flow divider, or the storage tank at the back of the pump?

I am referring to the pressure regulator. However, the pressure tank on the pump is also a strong candidate.

Greetings,
olli

Mike3BG wrote:

P.S.: I just re-read all the MWB values with 0 gas and full throttle. With the result that all values are within the specified range! Has anyone also an explanation for why Audi requires a basic setting to be performed after disconnecting the battery?

Usually, this is done when the control unit does not have non-volatile memory that it can use to store its configuration (e.g., EEPROM).
...but it must also store its learning values (and, for example, the error memory) in RAM.
This memory would then be cleared when the battery is disconnected.
To achieve this, the Digimat STG needs a continuous power supply from the
Get a battery.
If you have the schematics, you can check to see if that's the case.

Thanks to you all!

@Wiesel
O.K. understood. However, the battery had been "dead" several times, and the values were always recorded as such.

If I install the new potentiometer, I will be able to see if anything is happening, and how the values have changed, or not. In case of emergency, I will have to contact VAG.

Greetings

Hello @all

I built a flashing test box yesterday (see attachment). This is a very useful piece, but I could only test it briefly. The result was 4-4-4-4, which doesn't mean anything yet, because the motor wasn't running before (it was just for testing the flashing box). However, I noticed something: when connected without the ignition and engine running, the LED immediately lights up and stays on. It only turns off when the engine starts and waits for me to press the button. By the way: my engine actually responded and shut off! Normal?
And why does the LED already light up when plugged in? Does this mean that if you retrofit a motor control light in the KI, it will always and constantly light up until you start it? No, right?

Greetings

Hi @all!

The new DK potentiometer is installed. It functions the same as the old one. The values are (almost) the same, without any default settings. Before, the speed was at 99.6%, now it's at 99.2%.

Has anyone got any more tips regarding the issue with the fading and the LED that lights up immediately when plugged in? Normal?

thx

Please show me the schematic of the box.

As is here:
http://audi100.net/Technik/Einspritzung/Fehlerdiagnose/2-Diag.gif

And in the bridge, there is a switch in between.

Greetings