Ölzunahme - kleine Studie | Posts 48+

hkss wrote:

Triggering the regeneration process every 380 km, regardless of the load factor, is, in my personal experience, quite simply the most ridiculous thing imaginable.

Oh, now suddenly...

On the other hand, this could be a safety precaution. If the system for measuring soot load fails (e.g., due to a faulty differential pressure sensor, or other reasons), which happens frequently , the regeneration based on mileage provides the assurance of being able to continue driving. VW assumed a high soot load, which is why the range is only 380 km. Following the principle: It's better to regenerate the DPF more often than to have to replace it under warranty.
You're aware of the side effects of diluting the oil, but you also know how to minimize them.
a) put more strain on the engine.
b) Pay attention to the temperature (thermostat).
c) No long-life service; instead, oil changes are required every 1 year or 15,000 km.

Templogs from.

029 - Oil temperature / Oil level threshold / Wear index / Soot index.

062 - Coolant temperature sensor, engine outlet / Coolant temperature. Radiator outlet temperature / Ambient temperature / Intake manifold temperature.

067 - Temperature before turbocharger / Temperature inside particulate filter / Pressure difference across particulate filter / Offset of pressure difference.

Oil temperature is currently at 97.20 degrees (30/31 degrees Celsius outside temperature), which I think is enough to "burn off" fuel and condensation.

It's interesting to see how the cooler (the coolant thermostat) slightly lowers the water temperature when the oil gets hotter.

Okay, I just received the oil analysis report from the lab.
6.58% diesel fuel consumption over a distance of 7000 km.
The laboratory classifies this amount as "Mangehaft" and recommends troubleshooting.
(The biodiesel content is essentially unmeasurable, as I have only previously used ARAL Premium diesel.)

Extracting fuel from oil is definitely possible with gasoline. However, it is not possible with diesel, as its vapor pressure is too low at the temperatures achievable with oil heating. It's best to figure out why yours is always regenerating at the minimum interval.

Best regards.
Christian

Without having to read everything again... Were the sealing rings for the PD elements to be excluded or not?

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Without having to read everything again... Were the sealing rings for the PD elements to be excluded or not?

In my opinion, it can really only be THEM.
- as I said - in my opinion...

But I have an extended warranty, and if I tell the warranty insurance company about THIS...
"If you want me to examine your eye, I'm happy to perform some preliminary tests at my own expense."

At the VW workshop, they don't replace individual seals; they only replace the entire assembly ("that's just how it is," according to them). Okay, hier ist die Übersetzung:

1. **Problem:** The problem is...
2. **Description:** The description is...
3. **Diagnosis:** The diagnosis is...
4. **Solution:** The solution is...
When I see and read how to replace seals, all I can say is "Thank God." I don't trust any mechanic in any workshop as much as I trust him.
when it comes to dealing with someone else's property, I would trust him (or want him) to do such a job.
And if VW can "sell" that to the warranty insurance company, then so be it.
But...
It's not that far along yet.
I now need to have a few more conversations with my repair shop, possibly also contact VW directly, and submit the case to Autobild .

hkss wrote:

At the VW workshop, they don't replace individual seals; they only replace the entire assembly ("that's just how it is," according to them). Okay, here's the translation, preserving all the

markers:

So, just the complete 4 PD elements.

Quote:

No. Of course, seals will also be replaced. For example, a new cylinder head will be installed along with the old PDE (common rail pressure sensor).

possibly also write to VW and submit the case to Autobild
"VW: What do they have, a Golf from 2007?" Ah, I see.

So, I just had a surprisingly quick conversation with the workshop management.
after I already "reached out" on Wednesday - which is something we can do in my case. And someone told me:

VW requires a test drive to determine the defect.
Drain the oil.
Carefully measure and pour in the new oil.
Complete a test drive covering xxx kilometers.
Drain the oil.
Weigh the used oil.

Later, Volkswagen will comment on whether the measured increase in volume is outside the specified tolerance. I couldn't figure out where the line is drawn here.

I calculated that in my case, if the test drive is longer than 200 km (200 km is my assumption), then...
My oil has increased in volume by 10ml (1cl).

If (!!) the measured volume reading is outside the tolerance, the engine oil must be tested in the laboratory to determine the cause of the oil overfilling.
I have borne all the costs up to this point.

If (!!) the increase in volume was caused by diesel fuel, then...
The solution from VW might be a new AT (automatic transmission) motor, because all repair solutions (tandem pump, PD elements) would be questionable, and the aforementioned procedure (a test drive) would be necessary.
would be necessary to demonstrate the effectiveness of the measure.

The warranty extension would then - if they don't reject it outright -
Probably a maximum of 30% of the AT engine will be used, but likely even less. However, it's more likely that they will reject the idea altogether.
If the engine were to fail now, experience shows that the insurance company would currently cover approximately 80% of the total repair costs.
From the insurance company's perspective, their position is understandable.

Conclusion:
I will be ceasing my activities in this matter.
The costs, effort, and benefits are not in reasonable proportion to each other.
I will change my oil every 6-7000 km, and every 20,000 km, I will have the oil analyzed by a lab to see if the condition deteriorates further.
If I had my own workshop, or at least my own garage, I would replace the sealing rings of the PD elements myself, just as a precaution.
It's actually a "nice" piece of work if you enjoy "tinkering" as a hobby.

With such short intervals between oil changes, it might be worth investing in an oil extraction pump that sucks the oil out through the dipstick tube. While you won't be able to remove it completely, it's a very quick process. The oil filter and oil change, performed by draining as usual, should then be sufficient at the normal intervals.

Hutfahrer wrote:

With such short intervals between oil changes, it might be worth buying an oil extraction pump that sucks the oil out through the dipstick tube. While you won't get it all out, it's extremely quick. The oil filter and oil change, performed by draining as usual, should then be sufficient at the normal intervals.

Good idea - Thank you.

The PD element seal replacement isn't nearly as dramatic as it sounds.

It's almost entirely wage-based work and can even be done at the living room table under verschandeln conditions.

"I'd like to get some quotes, if you're not going to do it yourself."

Best regards.
Christian

Oil analysis, 3rd test (every 7,000 km).
The proportion of diesel fuel in the oil has been steadily increasing.
I have the oil analyzed in a lab and changed every 7,000 km.
Currently, the diesel content is 10.4% after 7000 km.
I once read that 10% is still considered an acceptable upper limit.
In the future, I won't have any other choice but to change the oil every 5000 km. VW is not interested in the problem with my vehicle.
The logged values (13, 18, 23) and temperatures were plausible.
Well, there's probably nothing we can do about it.

Hello,

The time and cost for the permanent oil checks, as well as the cost of the "extended warranty," constantly adding fresh oil and still experiencing increased wear – personally, I find it all too ridiculous.

Furthermore, it's not financially viable. No insurance company exists solely out of pure benevolence; they exist because they make money from it. Your money.
Ultimately, and in the long run, the total premiums paid are always more expensive than the damages incurred.
In that sense, any insurance that covers damages exceeding what one can afford to pay out of pocket is a luxury.

It usually takes 1.5 to 3 hours to replace the seals, and the necessary materials don't cost a fortune either.

Best regards, Rainer.

The tandem pump could also be a potential candidate.

Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

I don't see that as the problem with our BMM. Compared to the first few months after we bought the Caddy used, the oil consumption issue has improved.
After now having done 2 oil changes with my set 10,000-mile interval and painstakingly accurate checks (that stupid dipstick with the balls ), the oil level no longer changes. Although my oil level is always at the maximum mark, it doesn't exceed it.

However, I also admit that I'm not exactly the most economical driver here. We try to maintain a brisk driving style, which ensures decent oil and DPF temperatures. This significantly improves the self-cleaning process. This is especially important in the winter. We also often use the premium grade fuel to keep the biodiesel content lower.

At approximately 40,000 km, the problem of the "miraculous oil increase" hadn't occurred yet, but now, at around 70,000 km, it has started. The laboratory analysis clearly indicates a diesel content that is too high.
There's almost certainly a defect present. If the car is still under warranty, the issue should be formally reported in writing, referencing the oil consumption and the laboratory report. Otherwise, the months of tedious comparisons using the dipstick and regeneration tests are pointless. I definitely wouldn't talk about it with anyone at the workshop.
"Please provide the oil change invoices and lab reports, along with documentation of the observed increase in quantity, and a chronological record of all previous attempts to resolve the issue."
The response must be a repair proposal with identification of the warranty coverage. If the workshop wants to inspect the vehicle beforehand, they can do so at their own expense.
"The statement 'complete AT engine' is nonsense; such a thing doesn't exist. It's delivered as a block with the cylinder head gasket and a separate cylinder head." At most, the ZK (Zero Knowledge proof) can be completely (or partially) integrated.
Sometimes, writing a letter to Volkswagen can be quite effective.
If the procedure is too unpleasant, or if the "guarantee" seems ineffective due to obvious partial performance, then have it repaired or have it repaired at a suitable workshop.
hg
Herbert.