Oil Increase: A Small Study

Since I had been observing the constant increase in oil levels for some time, I have now decided to create a detailed documentation about it.
and also have the oil analyzed by a laboratory before the next oil change.
It should be possible to precisely determine the cause of why the amount of oil I'm using is constantly increasing.

Golf V - manufactured in November 2007, model year 2008, Variant (estate/wagon).
2.0 TDI 140HP (BMM) engine with DPF - DSG KCU 6-speed transmission - Total mileage to date (May 6, 2012): 72,650 km, 4,446 liters of ARAL Premium Diesel fuel.

Here is the oil level after the last unscheduled oil change at 68186 km - intentionally not filled up to MAX.
Please see the attached image 1.

Here is the oil level at 72545 km - and that was too much above the MAX:
Please see the attached image 2.

That's why I suctioned out 0.3 liters today - the current status is as follows:
Please see the attached image 3.

"While it's still not quite at the level seen after the oil change (like in the picture at the top), it's close (I estimate it's still about 0.1 higher than in the picture at the top)."
So, based on this 4464 km of driving, there were approximately 0.4 liters more oil present than there were after the oil change (as shown in the picture at the top).
I find it amazing, considering that the good Castrol Edge LL oil can supposedly last for 15,000 km according to VW :rolleyes:
I will now drive approximately 2350 km, and then I will need to have the car inspected and the oil changed, which will be due at around 75000 km.
Since I performed the unscheduled oil change at 68,186 km, the oil had only run for 6,814 km.
I will then send an oil sample to Ölcheck24 and let you know the results, or what they determined through their analysis.

It should be noted that the oil cap looks completely clean and normal.
The engine is running well, there has been no coolant loss so far, and the fuel consumption is mostly normal.
I always pay very close attention using VCDS to ensure that the DPF regeneration cycles (every 380 km) do not occur in city traffic or on short trips. And so far, I've managed to avoid that with this oil.
Whenever a spontaneous combustion event occurs on the highway, or at least during a train journey, at engine speeds above 2000 RPM, the vehicle should be brought to a complete stop without hesitation.

The only thing I might consider possible is that I often drive too slowly, mostly using cruise control.
The trips to and from work (which account for the majority of the total mileage) are primarily done on country roads at speeds of 76-80 km/h in 6th gear, with the cruise control engaged and the engine running at approximately 1300 rpm.
Perhaps this will cause a large amount of diesel fuel to be drawn into the oil.
Especially since the car has, without exception from the very first kilometer, only been fueled with ARAL Premium Diesel, and therefore has not received a single drop of biodiesel additive.
Possibly, this "thinner" fuel may also be more easily transported past the "spotlessly clean" piston rings.

I once experienced something similar with a Corsa C 1.2L gasoline engine, I believe it was manufactured around the year 2000?
Short trips, often driven by a woman, for errands, a quick trip into the city, with the engine speed not exceeding 2000 RPM.
After driving 50 km on the highway/country road at high speed and high RPM, the issue immediately became much less noticeable.
Best regards,

Since the Golf 5 doesn't have an oil temperature gauge, I'd like to install one and check the temperature.
'When driving at low speeds with 1300 RPM, I can imagine that no diesel fuel evaporates from the oil because it simply doesn't get hot enough. On the other hand, it's possible that due to some defect – perhaps in the head of the 2-liter TDI engine? – a minimal amount of diesel fuel constantly leaks into the engine oil.'

Why actually use that expensive Aral fuel?

Have you ever thought about the sealing rings of the pressure sensor elements? If there's a leak there, it will cause more oil to be present. Instead of looking at the study, simply check the relevant measurement blocks (13, 18, 23).
hg
Herbert.

Quote:

Since I had been observing the constant increase in oil levels for some time, I have now decided to create a "small" documentation about it. and also have the oil analyzed by a laboratory before the next oil change. It should be possible to precisely determine the cause of why the amount of oil is increasing in my case.

One should compare the amounts of oil drained before drawing any hasty conclusions.

These oil dipsticks have a ball at the end that is designed to scrape oil off the measuring tube as it is pulled out. This oil then runs down the ball, depending on its consistency.

A very intelligent construction .

Do these two problems perhaps relate to each other?
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.
hg
Herbert.

Herbert wrote:

Do these two problems perhaps go together? I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL. hg Herbert

Hi Herbert, good idea - I'll log 13/18/23 tomorrow.
I hadn't even thought about the total mileage of the engine, but you never know.

No, the unclean start-up from a year ago.
It was then suddenly finished and forgotten, replaced by a new battery.

Autoservice wrote:

Quote: Since I had been observing the constant increase in oil levels for some time, I have now decided to create a "small" documentation about it. and also have the oil analyzed by a laboratory before the next oil change. So, the exact cause of why the oil level is increasing in my car should be precisely determined. One should compare the amounts of oil drained before drawing any hasty conclusions. These oil dipsticks have a ball at the end that is designed to scrape oil off the measuring tube as it is pulled out. This oil then runs down the ball, depending on its consistency. A very intelligent construction

.

Yes, the construction – especially the completely black plastic part – is totally ridiculous.
To put it mildly, the inventor and everyone who approved and released this measuring tool for production are complete idiots. They probably don't even have a driver's license for a car, or have ever held or used something like this before.

But I can't possibly drain the oil and check the level every 3-4,000 km.
I insert and remove the measuring rod at least 10 times - usually more often - and I wipe it repeatedly.
Initially, leave the dipstick out and let the oil drain completely from the dipstick tube for a short time (1-2 minutes). Then, if you can see that the oil level readings are no longer changing, take a picture of the oil level on the dipstick with a camera, so you can accurately read it in detail on your computer.
Also, the car is always perfectly level and parked in the exact same spot.

I think this is quite accurate, considering the effort I'm putting in.

Devilseye503 wrote:

Since the 5th generation Golf doesn't have an oil temperature gauge, I would consider retrofitting one and checking the temperature. "When driving at low speeds with 1300 RPM, I can imagine that no diesel fuel evaporates from the oil because it simply doesn't get hot enough. On the other hand, it's possible that due to some defect – perhaps in the head of the 2-liter TDI engine? – a minimal amount of diesel fuel constantly leaks into the engine oil." Why actually drive the expensive Aral stuff?

Can you not log the oil temperature using VCDS?

Well, let's talk about this ARAL stuff.
I just can't imagine that the bioethanol added to the fuel is good for the engine.
is. Furthermore, my driving style is the typical worst-case scenario for disadvantages arising from the AGR system: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=3095
In my personal opinion, this is somewhat offset by the relatively expensive equipment I use.

"I couldn't measure it as accurately as you did, due to that annoying plastic ball thing. But I also think it's either increasing or not decreasing. While my assistants' driving style is somewhat conservative, there are at least 2 highway trips per week (which I want to be driven quickly, but not with full throttle), so the engine and DPF do get warm. However, I believe that if I could drive myself more often, the engine oil consumption would be lower."
Here's a line of thought:
"I notice/hear that the Caddy makes a fairly noticeable rumbling sound at low RPMs (roughly every 300km?). The lower the RPM, the more unpleasant the sound. It's particularly noticeable when starting from a standstill at intersections or traffic lights in the city. This phase is probably called active diesel particulate filter regeneration and lasts for a few minutes."

Could it be possible that by adjusting the injection parameters and the amount of fuel added during the regulation phase:
a) This is how those annoying buzzing noises are created.
b) Does a portion of the fuel enter the engine oil unburned?

During active regeneration, some of the fuel is not completely combusted, but instead vaporizes. These vapors are intended to create higher temperatures in the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). I can imagine that the uncombusted vapor could condense on the cylinder walls and become liquid, which would make it possible for fuel to enter the engine oil via the piston.
Yes, it's just a bmm.
Nowadays, there are also other options available, such as fuel injectors for the particulate filter located in the exhaust manifold.
But is that actually better?

Unlike the possible evaporation of condensate or gasoline into the engine oil, diesel fuel is difficult to remove from hot engine oil. The oil becomes excessively diluted, loses some of its lubricating and protective properties, and should be replaced if there is a significant amount of diesel fuel present. Unfavorable driving conditions and the additional injection of fuel for DPF regeneration put additional strain on the oil. If your driving and usage patterns promote these problems, you may be using the wrong vehicle or engine design.

Hutfahrer wrote:

Unlike the possible boiling off ('evaporation') of condensate or gasoline into the engine oil, diesel fuel is also difficult to remove from hot engine oil. The oil becomes excessively diluted, loses some of its lubricating and protective properties, and should be replaced if there are larger amounts of diesel fuel present. Unfavorable driving patterns and the additional injection for DPF regeneration put additional strain on it. If your own driving and usage profile promotes these problems, then you may be using the wrong vehicle or engine concept.

I completely agree with you – on every point.
The most painful part is the fact that I'm driving the wrong vehicle.
You're right, but you're also poking the wound.
Unfortunately, a part of me that loves cars is still there, and this car...
Balancing economy, aesthetics, and features(!) - my absolute dream car.
Therefore, for personal reasons, I unfortunately don't want to change vehicles.
Now I have to figure out how to make the best of it.

RedR32 wrote:

Could it be possible that by adjusting the injection parameters and the amount of fuel added during the regulation phase: a) This is how those annoying buzzing noises are created. b) Does a portion of the fuel enter the engine oil unburned? During active regeneration, some of the fuel is not completely combusted, but instead evaporates. These vapors are intended to create higher temperatures in the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). I can imagine that the unburned vapor could condense on the cylinder walls and turn into liquid, which would make it possible for fuel to enter the engine oil through the piston. Nowadays, there are also other options available, such as fuel injectors for the particulate filter located in the exhaust manifold. But is that better?

Your considerations are largely correct.
As I mentioned in the opening thread, I pay very close attention to ensuring that my active regeneration phases take place either on the highway or, at the very least, during a continuous stretch on a country road, without stopping.
The active regeneration phases occur every 385 kilometers, precisely at that distance! Or sooner, if...
The ash loading reaches 45%. This value is fixed and cannot be changed.
With my driving style, I never reach 45%. It's usually only 12-18% charge. So, I can precisely calculate – after the regeneration process has finished – that I can add 380 km to the odometer and then know exactly when the next regeneration will occur. This makes it easy for me to plan my routes accordingly. In my opinion, VW has the worst possible implementation in this regard.
They should have simply paid the French company a few euros for their patent.
...in my opinion. But of course, something like that would never have been an option for VW.

Quote:

The active regeneration phases occur every 385 km - strictly according to km! or earlier, if... The ash loading reaches 45%. This value is fixed and cannot be changed.

How do you know that, from the label file or somewhere else?

Quote:

With my driving style, I never reach 45% - not even close; it's usually only 12-18% load

.
You're confusing things; the ash loading value cannot decrease. The calculated soot loading value is reduced during regeneration, while the ash loading increases.

Quote:

In my opinion, VW has the worst possible patent in this matter

.
It's not actually that bad, because: Compared to other systems, there are relatively few components used here, and it's effective because heavier vehicles naturally produce more emissions.

I could offer our Golf 5 BLS as an alternative.

Approximately 120,000 km, mostly highway driving - then it was ours .
Since then, it's mostly been city driving, rarely a few kilometers on country roads, and very rarely the highway (Mother's Day trip to Paris - I wouldn't let them take my Passat for that ).

He creates a sense of rejuvenation within just a few kilometers, even within a single city trip.
And he doesn't use any oil thinning, because it doesn't add or remove any oil.


My BMR consumes very little oil if you really push it. But I can forgive that to the GT1749VC and the 16 valves.

m;