Oil increase - a small study

Since I had been observing the constant increase in oil levels for some time, I have now decided to create a "small" documentation about it.
and also have the oil analyzed by a laboratory before the next oil change.
It should be possible to precisely determine the cause of why the amount of oil I'm producing keeps increasing.

Golf V - manufactured in November 2007, model year 2008, Variant (estate/wagon).
Engine: 2.0 TDI 140HP (BMM) with DPF - DSG (KCU) 6-speed - Total mileage to date (May 6, 2012): 72,650 km, 4,446 liters of ARAL Premium Diesel.

The following is the oil level after the last unscheduled oil change at 68186 km - intentionally not filled up to the MAX mark.
Please see the attached image 1.

The oil level at 72545 km is shown below - and that was too much above the MAX level for me:
Please see the attached image 2.

That's why I suctioned out 0.3 liters today - the current status is as follows:
Please see the attached image 3.

While it's still not quite at the level seen after the oil change (like in the picture at the top), it's close (I estimate it's still about 0.1 higher than in the picture at the top).
Approximately, after this 4464 km journey, there were 0.4 liters more oil in the engine than there were after the oil change (as shown in the picture at the top).
I find it amazing, considering that the good Castrol Edge LL oil is supposed to last 15,000 km according to... Staying with VW, huh? :rolleyes:
I will now drive approximately 2350 km, and then I will need to have the car inspected and the oil changed, which will be due at around 75000 km.
Since I performed the unscheduled oil change at 68,186 km, the oil had only run for 6,814 km.
I will then send an oil sample to Ölcheck24 and let you know the results, or what they determined through their analysis.

It should be noted that the oil cap looks completely verschandeln and normal.
The engine is running well, there has been no coolant loss so far, and the fuel consumption is largely normal.
I always pay very close attention using VCDS to ensure that the DPF's regeneration cycles (every 380 km) do not occur in city traffic or on short trips. And so far, I've managed to do it with this oil.
For every instance of over-revving that occurs on the highway, or at least when driving a train, at speeds above 2000 RPM, bring the speed completely down to zero without stopping.

The only thing I might consider possible is that I often drive too slowly, especially when using cruise control.
Most of the driving (the majority of the total kilometers) is done on country roads at speeds of 76-80 km/h in 6th gear, with the cruise control engaged and the engine running at approximately 1300 rpm.
Perhaps this will cause a large amount of diesel fuel to be drawn into the oil.
Especially since the car has, without exception from the very first kilometer, only been run on ARAL Premium Diesel, and has therefore not received a single drop of biodiesel additive.
It's possible that this "thinner" fuel may also bypass the "spotlessly clean" piston rings more easily.

I once experienced this issue with a Corsa C 1.2L gasoline engine, I believe it was manufactured around the year 2000?
Short trips, often by a woman, maybe for grocery shopping or a quick trip into the city, keeping the engine speed below 2000 RPM.
After driving 50 km on the highway/country road at high speed and with a high engine RPM, the problem immediately became much less noticeable.
Best regards,

Since the Golf 5 doesn't have an oil temperature gauge, I'd like to install one and check the temperature.
At those low speeds of 1300 RPM, I can imagine that not a single drop of diesel evaporates from the oil, simply because it doesn't get hot enough. On the other hand, it's possible that a defect – perhaps in the head? – is causing a constant, minimal amount of diesel to seep into the engine oil in a 2.0-liter TDI engine?

Why actually use that expensive Aral fuel?

Have you ever thought about the sealing rings of the PD elements? If there's a leak there, it will cause more oil to be released. Instead of looking at the study itself, just take a look at the corresponding measurement data blocks (13, 18, 23).
hg
Herbert.

Quote:

Since I had been observing the constant increase in oil levels for some time, I have now decided to create a "small" documentation about it. and also have the oil analyzed by a laboratory before the next oil change. So, the exact cause of why the amount of oil is increasing in my case should be precisely determined.

One should compare the amounts of oil drained before drawing any hasty conclusions.

These oil dipsticks have a ball at the end that is designed to wipe off any oil clinging to the measuring tube when the dipstick is removed. It then runs down the ball, depending on its consistency.

A very intelligent construction

Do these two problems perhaps have something in common?
Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.
hg
Herbert.

Herbert wrote:

Do these two problems perhaps go together? Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate. hg Herbert

Hi Herbert, good idea - I'll log 13/18/23 tomorrow.
I hadn't even thought about the total mileage of the engine, but you never know.

No, the unclean start-up from a year ago.
It was then suddenly finished and forgotten with a new battery.

Autoservice wrote:

Quote: Since I had been observing the constant increase in oil levels for some time, I have now decided to create a "small" documentation about it. and also have the oil analyzed by a laboratory before the next oil change. So, the exact cause of why the amount of oil is increasing in my case should be precisely determined. One should compare the amounts of oil drained before drawing any hasty conclusions. These oil dipsticks have a ball at the end that is designed to wipe off any oil clinging to the measuring tube when the dipstick is removed. It then runs down the ball, depending on its consistency. A very intelligent construction

.

Yes, the construction – especially the completely black plastic part – is totally ridiculous.
To put it mildly, the inventor and everyone who approved and released this measuring tool for production are complete idiots. They probably don't even have a driver's license for a car, and have likely never held or used something like this before.

But I can't possibly drain the oil and check the level every 3-4,000 km.
I insert and remove the measuring rod at least 10 times - usually more often - and I wipe it repeatedly.
Initially, leave the dipstick out and let the oil drain completely from the dipstick tube for a short time (1-2 minutes). Then, if you can see that the oil level readings are no longer changing, take a picture of the oil level on the dipstick with a camera, so you can accurately read it in detail on your computer.
Also, the car is perfectly level and always parked in the same spot.

I think that's quite accurate, considering the effort I'm putting in.

[Translating...]

Devilseye503 wrote:

da der 5er golf noch keine öltemperaturanzeige hat, würd ich mal diese nachrüsten und mir die temperatur anschauen. Bei den schleichfahrten mit 1300 u/min kann ich mir gut vorstellen, dass kein bisschen diesel mehr aus dem öl verdampft, weils einfach nicht warm wird. Auf der anderen Seite wäre es vlt möglich, dass über irgend einen defekt ->im kopf?! 2-liter tdi?! ständig minimalst diesel ins motoröl suppt? Warum eigentlich die teure aral-plörre fahren?

Öltemp kann man mit VCDS nicht loggen?

Nun, zur ARAL-Plörre.
Ich kann mir halt nicht vorstellen, das der Biorotz der da zugemischt wird gut für den Motor
ist. Außerdem bin ich mit meinem Fahrstiel der typische Supergau für Nachteile aus dem AGR System: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=3095
Was sich dann meiner persönlichen Meinung nach durch die teuere Plörre die ich fahre relativiert.

I couldn't measure it as accurately as you did, due to this annoying plastic ball thing. But I also think it's increasing, or at least not decreasing. While my assistants' driving style is somewhat conservative, there are at least 2 highway trips per week (which I want to be driven quickly, but not with full throttle), so the engine and DPF do get warm. I think, but if I could still drive myself, the engine oil consumption would probably be lower.
Here's a line of thought:
"I've noticed/heard that the Caddy makes a fairly noticeable rumbling sound at low RPMs (roughly every 300km?). The lower the RPM, the more unpleasant the sound becomes. It's particularly noticeable when starting from a standstill at intersections or traffic lights in the city." This phase is likely called active particle filter regeneration and ends again after a few minutes.

Could it be possible that by adjusting the injection parameters and the additional amount of fuel injected during the regulation phase:
a) This is how those annoying buzzing noises are created.
b) Does a portion of the fuel enter the engine oil unburned?

During active regeneration, some of the fuel is not completely combusted, but instead vaporizes. These vapors are intended to create higher temperatures within the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). I can easily imagine that the uncombusted steam condenses on the cylinder walls and turns into liquid, which would make it quite possible for fuel to enter the engine oil through the piston.
Yes, it's just a bmm.
Meanwhile, there are also many other options available, such as... Fuel injector for the particulate filter catalyst in the exhaust manifold.
But is that actually better?

Unlike the possible evaporation of condensate or gasoline into the engine oil, diesel fuel is difficult to remove from hot engine oil. The oil becomes excessively diluted, loses some of its lubricating and protective properties, and should be replaced if there is a significant amount of diesel fuel present. Unfavorable driving patterns and the additional injection of fuel for DPF regeneration put additional strain on the oil. If your driving and usage patterns promote these problems, you may be using the wrong vehicle or engine design.

Hutfahrer wrote:

Unlike the possible boiling off ('evaporation') of condensate or gasoline into the engine oil, diesel fuel is also difficult to remove from hot engine oil. The oil becomes excessively diluted, loses some of its lubricating and protective properties, and should be replaced if there are larger amounts of diesel fuel present. Unfavorable driving patterns and the additional injection for DPF regeneration put additional strain on it. If your own driving and usage profile promotes these problems, then you may be using the wrong vehicle or engine concept.

I completely agree with you – on every point.
The most painful part is the fact that I'm driving the wrong vehicle.
You're right, but you're also poking the wound.
Unfortunately, the car enthusiast in me is still lurking, and this car is...
Balancing economy, aesthetics, and features(!) - my absolute dream car.
Therefore, for personal reasons, I unfortunately don't want to change vehicles.
Now I have to figure out how to make the best of it.

RedR32 wrote:

Could it be possible that by adjusting the injection parameters and the additional amount of fuel injected during the regulation phase: a) This is how those annoying buzzing noises are created. b) Does a portion of the fuel enter the engine oil unburned? During active regeneration, some of the fuel is not completely combusted, but instead vaporizes. These vapors are intended to create higher temperatures within the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). I can easily imagine that the uncombusted steam condenses on the cylinder walls and turns into liquid, which would make it quite possible for fuel to enter the engine oil through the piston. Meanwhile, there are also many other options available, such as... Fuel injector for the particulate filter catalyst in the exhaust manifold. But is that better?

Your considerations are largely correct.
As I mentioned in the opening thread, I pay very close attention to ensuring that my active regeneration phases take place on the highway or, at the very least, on a country road where I can drive continuously without stopping.
The active regeneration phases occur every 385 kilometers, precisely at that distance! Or sooner, if...
The ash loading has reached 45%. It's already set up like that and can't be changed.
With my driving style, I never reach 45% battery depletion – not even close. Usually, it's only 12-18%. Therefore, I can precisely calculate – after the regeneration process has completed – that I can add 380 km to the odometer, and then I know exactly when the next regeneration will occur. This makes it easy for me to plan my route accordingly. In my opinion, VW holds the worst possible patent in this matter, because...
They should have paid the French company a few euros for their patent.
...in my opinion. Of course, it was out of the question for VW.

Quote:

The active regeneration phases occur every 385 km - strictly according to km! or earlier, if... The ash loading has reached 45%. This is

firmly configured and cannot be changed.
How do you know that, from the label file or somewhere else?

Quote:

With my driving style, I never reach 45% - not even close; it's usually only 12-18% load

.
You're confusing things; the ash loading value cannot decrease. The calculated soot loading value is reduced during regeneration, while the ash loading increases.

Quote:

In my opinion, VW has the worst possible patent in this matter

.
It's not actually that bad, because: Compared to other systems, there are relatively few components used here, and it's effective because heavier vehicles naturally produce more emissions.

[quote="RedR32"]

Quote:

The active regeneration phases occur every 385 km - strictly according to km! or earlier, if... The ash loading has reached 45%. This is

firmly configured and cannot be changed.
How do you know that, from the label file or somewhere else?

Based on my experience, as I often had the laptop and VCDS running simultaneously.
And then I see that a few km after reaching 380km since the last regeneration, the regeneration starts (0000001).

Quote:

With my driving style, I never reach 45% - not even close; it's usually only 12-18% load

.
You're confusing things; the ash loading value cannot decrease. The calculated soot loading value is reduced during regeneration, while the ash loading increases.

Right - I used the wrong term. It's called the loading coefficient. The loading coefficient in my system never exceeds 12-18% when active regeneration starts due to reaching a certain mileage threshold.
Currently, I have accumulated 22g of ash mass at a mileage of 72,500 km.

I could offer a Golf 5 BLS as an alternative.

Approximately 120,000 km, mostly highway driving - then it was ours .
Since then, it's mostly been city driving, rarely a few kilometers on country roads, and very rarely the highway (Mother's Day trip to Paris - I'm not letting them scratch my Passat ).

He achieves regeneration within just a few kilometers of city driving.
And he doesn't use any oil thinning, because it doesn't add or remove any oil.


My BMR consumes very little oil if you drive it properly. But I can forgive the GT1749VC and the 16 valves for that.

m;