Is it possible to change the battery on a 9N and similar models from above?

Hello,

hat hier jemand schon einmal einen Lader beim 1,9er Polo - oder Ibiza 6L oder Fabia - TDI "von oben" gewechselt, also ihn zwischen ZK und Wasserkasten raus- und reingezirkelt (bei abgebautem Ansaugkrümmer), ohne von unten ranzugehen?

I'm planning something like that, but I don't necessarily want to do it in a workshop or on a stage/pit.
Loosening the cat so that the downpipe has enough space, could also be possible with ramps or similar devices.

In the 9N series, the compressor outlet conveniently points downwards (unlike G4 and others), which means the loader doesn't need to take up as much space when loading and unloading.

And the screws for the oil return line and the compressor strut (on the turbine housing) should also be accessible from above, according to my estimate...

I don't think that's possible. You'll probably only be able to loosen the rear screw with a lot of effort. And then, of course, the stuff also needs to be put back in.

I don't think it's worth the effort to do all of this from above. With a stage, so much is easier.

Maybe it would already help to drive the car onto ramps and then work with the skateboard from below. I'm just managing to reach it with my arm extended.

Greetings
Thomas

A2TDI wrote:

You'll probably only be able to loosen the rear screw with a lot of effort.

I also thought about unscrewing the exhaust pipe from the engine block (with a wrench, relatively accessible), removing the turbocharger, and then screwing it onto the new turbocharger before installation.

The upper part of the return pipe appears to be a flexible section (wire mesh), which should make the job easier.

Or am I wrong?

Quote:

I don't think it's worth the effort to do all of this from above. With a stage, so much is easier.

If you want to remove the loader downwards, you have to dismantle the right drive shaft. . .

Hi Ulf,

I haven't seen a 1.9L engine in a 9N yet, we have a 1.2L in ours, and with that, we can do a full service around the engine . Seriously, I understand what you're asking. I know the problem. You disassemble everything after half a lifetime, and no matter how, it's missing 0.5cm.
Wie ist denn dein Lader, mit einem selbstgebauten Krümmer? Auch wenn es nicht elegant ist, was hältst du dann von dem "Zerlegen" hinter dem Motorblock, meinen damit die vier Schrauben, die das Ladergehäuse mit dem Krümmer verbinden, entfernen? Oder hast du das schon vor? Then the only question is how to put it back together when you see very little.
Upward, the situation in golf is already quite tight.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

So, wie ist denn dein Lader, mit einem selbstgebauten Krümmer?

Alte und neue Lader haben den gesamten Krümmer ausgebaut, die Trennung erfolgte nur mit einem Flex . . .

I will try to measure the maneuvering space between the crankcase bolts and the water pump housing, and then compare the result with the external dimensions of the new engine. This will probably show whether it is necessary to access from below.

Quote:

From above, it's already quite tight in the golf.

Even with an enlarged intake manifold?
With manifold + exhaust system as a complete set, or disassembled?
Does the backward-pointing compressor outlet cause a problem? It clearly shows the Polo going down nicely...

Hi Ulf,

Going down below in the golf is possible, however, like with polo, there is the driveshaft and parts of the power steering. I have also been working on this for a long time. But, since I wanted to verschandeln the intake manifold anyway, I removed it. The compressor outlet is a major obstruction, as you said, but I have managed to get around it with many adjustments on the right side, above the engine . I can't describe it any better. Going directly above is not possible, as the water pump housing essentially protrudes into the engine compartment. Don't you have a KP39B, I know you've already posted about it, but I forgot, I have one here, you can take two parts out of it!

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

It's not possible to go directly above, as the water tank essentially protrudes into the engine compartment.

That's right, that's also the real bottleneck with the 9N: there are about 16 cm of space between the valve cover and the front edge of the 9N water tank.

I managed to push the new loading bay through as far as possible, using a door as a guide, and afterwards it was exactly 16 cm open.

In the coming days, I will also remove the intake duct between the LMM and the compressor and try to move the new compressor a bit further back than the old one.
If I can thread the lower part with the turbine housings and VTG inlet through the small opening, then the impeller replacement from above should be possible.

Quote:

Don't you have a KP39B . . . with that, you can remove two parts!

Can you unscrew the flanges? It's not working for me.

Maybe I'm not expressing myself clearly. I mean, not a separation like the long-stroke turbocharger turbines, but the entire cast piece from the actual turbocharger, so that you have the manifold with the VTG on one side and the drive wheel/shaft/compressor housing on the other side.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

I mean not a separation like the long-stroke turbocharger turbines, but to completely separate the entire casting part from the actual turbocharger, so that you have the manifold with the VTG on one side and the drive wheel/shaft/compressor assembly on the other side.

Ah yes, unscrew the screws around the inside of the turbine housing.

Then, of course, the turbine wheel is exposed: if you hit it somewhere and bend or break a blade -> total damage
However, I wanted to avoid this risk, so I prefer to proceed with the change from the bottom.

But I still have hope that it will work from above: I learned via private message that it is possible for the Ibiza 6L and Fabia.

That's exactly what I meant by "unelegant"! But I would only do it as a last resort. "I recently performed one on a Sharan, because the space inside was really strange!"
Good luck with the renovation! Be careful with the self-tapping screws, in the case of that specific Sharan (well, 3 years and 100,000 km), one of them didn't work properly! It's then definitely better if you can sometimes also see to the right, even in an emergency, from below.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Be careful with the self-tapping screws, in the case of the aforementioned Sharan (well, 3 years and 100,000 km), one of them didn't work properly!

Did it break off, or were you able to convince it to work properly again with a rust remover (or something else)?

Rust remover: I always use it before assembling the tools. All except the one on the 4th cylinder came out easily, but that one broke with very little effort. At least, it was manageable to remove the next one. I was really worried. Therefore, I think it's better to have at least one option available. "These ramps provide enough space, the only question is how to get from above into the engine compartment."