Golf 3: Jacking Points for Rear Lift.

Hello,

I want to replace the rear axle bearings on my Golf, and to do that, I need to remove the axle. Since I've already removed everything else (brake lines, brake pressure regulator, exhaust), it's not much more work to remove the axle as well.
I usually lift the car using a bottle jack at the rear axle. But now it's lying flat because I need to remove the axle.
Also, both sides need to be raised.
Now I've noticed that the areas where the rear axle mounting brackets are attached to the body are extended towards the front. These areas are large enough that you could potentially install something stable there.
Are these points suitable for supporting the body? Has anyone tested this before?
It should also be able to stay like that for 1-2 days. Wouldn't it be bad if something gave way during the night and you only noticed it after it's already been pressed down?
As an alternative, I would use limestone-sand blocks with a wooden board placed under the rear lifting points of the car lift.

HI,

I believe that these "extensions" will last.

However, I'm confused by the combination of a question that's clearly for absolute beginners (which is perfectly valid) and the proposed task. Not even all workshops attempt to press these bearings out and back in because it's so complicated and often gets stuck.
Especially in "regular" golf courses, where there is only one long par on each side, problems often arise.

m;

Hello,

The jacking worked. The axle is out, and the old bearings have been removed.
I wouldn't have expected them to be so red.
It only took three hammer blows with a ratchet extension on the center of the bearing, and the whole thing with the rubber came flying out.
The rubber was corroded and therefore no longer had a secure grip inside the sleeve.
I carefully sawed through the outer ring of the bearing and was then able to easily pull it off the axle.
I'll have the pressing done at the workshop. They shouldn't have any problems with a job like that, should they?

@golf3schrauber

Quote:

I carefully sawed through the outer ring of the bearing

and was able to easily pull it off the shaft.

Well read and pay attention. }

Since you live quite close to me (15 km), I'd be happy to lend you my tools for opening canned goods. If you're interested, please send me a private message.

Hello,

Okay, the new bearings are installed. It cost me 50 euros. I think that's reasonable.
The axle has also been reinstalled. Everything worked smoothly.
I can provide a driving report at the earliest next weekend. I'm currently in the process of installing the new brake lines.
The mounting screws for the bearings are supposed to be tightened while the vehicle is in its unloaded state, standing on the ground. However, the vehicle has been lowered. Therefore, the bearings are now rotated slightly more than before.
Wouldn't it be sensible to adjust or replace the bearings when lowering a vehicle to adapt them to the new situation?
Or are those few degrees not that bad? I haven't heard anything about that in connection with lowering the suspension.

Quote:

Isn't it sensible to loosen the bearings and adjust them to the new situation when lowering a vehicle? Or are those few degrees not that bad? I haven't heard anything about that in connection with lowering suspensions.

Generally, you should tighten the suspension components and their bearings in the unloaded "normal" state to prevent premature wear of the rubber-to-metal bushings.

Okay, so... the sensible thing to do would be to remove the screws, replace them with new ones, place the item on the floor, and tighten the screws to the correct torque.
"Since 'lowering' can range from A to Z, this is certainly not a universally applicable rule... I seem to recall that the WV/IDUA specification (for example, when installing steering knuckles) is +/- 2 degrees, which suggests certain tolerances."

I would, however, "adapt the inventory to the new situation."