Golf 3 Rear Noise: Troubleshooting & Repair

HI,

My tractor is making a cracking sound!
"So far, I've been able to trigger it by pulling and pressing on the door handles of the car with the rear door open (possible on both sides). It sounds and feels like there's something inside made of two layers of metal that can slide against each other with a single click."
While driving, I've never really heard anything unusual before.

Now I've had the rubber-metal bearings of the rear axle housing replaced.

Now there's constant cracking noise while driving, and the rear of the car has become much softer.
The GMLagers only absorb the rotation (insertion) of the axle body through the elasticity of the rubber; they are not actual rotary bearings. Therefore, new bearings (with stiffer rubber) will certainly transmit higher forces to the chassis.

But what could be making that cracking sound, and how can I get rid of it?

I specifically mentioned the installation of the rear rack to them when I picked up the car, pointing out that the mounting nuts were tightened only after lowering the vehicle, so that the rubber bushings would be free of tension under normal loading conditions. He confirmed this to me (verbally).

I can now trigger the cracking sound by slowly driving forward (10 km/h) and wildly steering from right to left, causing the car to sway back and forth. Then it makes a distinct "crack crack..." noise.


In addition to the cracking noise, the rear seat is also making a rattling sound because there's some play in the middle mounting point (that bolted bracket where the backrests are inserted and secured with pins). However, that's a relatively simple issue to fix.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Could it be a heat shield? My friend has a lowered Audi A4, and it also makes cracking and creaking noises at the rear when going over bumps. It's caused by the heat shields near the exhaust that are rubbing against each other.

Stoßdämpfer OK? Vom Feder kein Windung abgebrochen? DOkay, got it?

The person who installed the things should really take care of this issue. Maybe something went wrong there as well.

Perhaps you could try triggering it by putting it in a pit and listening carefully, so you can pinpoint the source more precisely.

Thank you for your guesses.

"However, none of them seem to fit the description of the cracking sound, which is exactly what I can reproduce by manipulating the locking wedge. And if I modify that area, neither the heat shields nor the strut mounts would be affected."

I suspect it's coming from the body of the car and that the new, stiffer bearings are now causing it to happen even during normal driving.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Based on how you described it, I understood that the swaying of the cars could be induced. That is, the noise came from exactly the same place as when driving. To get the cars to sway like that, you used the locking wedges as a method.

You are now saying that precisely those shims could produce the same noise, but they are not .

To be able to answer your question more meaningfully, you should tell us where the noise is coming from – above/below, left/right, front/back. Also, whether it can only be heard inside or also from outside (e.g., someone driving past). But definitely not from the back seat, right?

I'm only familiar with creaking sounds coming from the chassis/exhaust system. Body noises are usually more of a vibration or a twisting sound within the door seals. It might be worth checking the fuel tank supports or the tank itself.

So.

If you want to trigger the locking wedges, you take it in your hand and pull on it. This can be done at any speed. Eventually, it will make a "click" sound.
It also works if the door is closed and you lock it.

The issue is dependent on FORCE, not momentum. A rattling exhaust needs to be struck with a force to make noise; if you slowly push it against its stop, nothing happens.

The sound is like tapping the metal with a finger joint.

It's located somewhere in the area of the rear wheel arch liner, specifically near the door latch mechanisms.

Sometimes it happens when I'm lifting something through the back door and into the rear seat, and I brace myself with my knee or thigh against the wheel arch to avoid tipping inside the car.

The noise probably isn't directly related to the axle, but it has become noticeably more frequent (even in situations where it didn't occur before) since the rubber parts were replaced.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Quote:

It's coming from somewhere in the area of the rear wheel arch, specifically near the closing wedges.

Okay, now drive with the hood open and try to pinpoint the source of the noise.

Quote:

Now there's a constant cracking sound while driving, and the rear of the car has become much softer.

Are the bushings installed correctly? The longer end should face towards the rear.
Inside = long end facing forward?

Are the support brackets of the HA (housing) adjusted to the new situation? Possibly, the HA is under tension because it's located between the support brackets.

Given your mileage, I would also recommend tightening everything that rotates.
It wouldn't surprise me if some things aren't as secure as they should be.

Now you've found it. Just to be complete, I'm referring to your new post.
Ich kann den Inhalt dieser URL nicht abrufen und übersetzen. Bitte gib mir den Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest.

Herr Antje wrote:

The person who installed the things should really take care of this issue. Maybe something went wrong there as well.

I don't think the cracking sound is directly caused by the improperly installed bearing.

The car has always made that cracking noise, but since the new bearings were installed, it's now audible even during normal driving.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Well, believing isn't everything.

The cracking sound that I can still produce by manipulating the locking wedges is still present.

The cracking noise while driving has disappeared since I installed the new rear axle bearings.
The first ones, which were only used for 2 weeks, all had their axles break!

The sound of the closing latch is now only audible during loading (as it always was).

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Quote:

now you've found it. Just for the sake of completeness, I'd like to refer you to your new post:

Perhaps the admin should (for the sake of good order) dedicate a separate section to him.

Hi BM.

I'm writing all of this here because it often helps others to know about people who are going through similar experiences and the solutions they found.


I initially thought the louder cracking sound was coming from the locking wedges, which seemed to be occurring more frequently now that I had replaced the axle bearings.

However, it turned out that the cracking sound came directly from the bearing itself, so it's not related to what Mr. Antje suspected and therefore doesn't belong in the same thread.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Okay, so it must be possible to fix it somehow. Could you maybe use a screwdriver to probe around and try to locate the source of the noise? It's not the locking wedges causing the sound, right? They're just making the noise *because* of something else?

Yes.

It's easiest to cause it using wedges.

With the door open, you can also press your thigh against the frame (in the area of the wheel arch), which will cause a clicking sound.

"I'm going to take a look inside the left compartment in the trunk. With some care, you can stick your head in there and see up to the locking mechanism and its threaded plate. Maybe you'll see something other than corrosion protection wax."

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Okay, let's take a look. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to pinpoint the source of the noise without more specific information. If it's been happening for a long time, there should be some visible signs.

dieselmartin wrote:

Yes, With a little caution, you can stick your head in there

.

Hold your phone in your hands, or add someone if you get stuck .

Quote:

Hold your phone in your hands

.

No joke, that tip isn't actually bad. But I think that if I tried it, I might end up coming out of there with my ears bleeding.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.