Climatronic: Outlet Temperature OK?

Hello!

Yesterday evening and this morning, I read the outlet temperature using the diagnostic tool. There's a sensor for the central outlets that can be used for this measurement.

Prerequisites for the exam:
New pollen filter.
no dirty air conditioning condenser.
Outdoor temperature last night: 35°C.
Engine idling.
Climate on LO.

My sensor gave me the following values last night: 13-14°C.
High idle speed observed after approximately 1 minute, at a temperature of 11°C.

This morning, I checked the temperature while driving (approximately 90 km/h in 6th gear). The outside temperature was 26°C, and everything else was the same. The sensor showed a temperature of 8°C. When the car was idling, the sensor temperature rose again to 12-13°C.

"Can someone please tell me if I should have the air conditioning system checked now? The usual recommended temperature range is 3-6°C up to an outside temperature of 33°C. The car will soon be 5 years old. Should the throttle body always be replaced during an air conditioning check, or is that not necessary? How reliable is the reading from the sensor for the middle vents?"

Thank you for your tips.

Greetings.

A few vehicle details would have been helpful as well .

For an A6 model manufactured from 2002 onwards, the following table applies:

http://img157.

/img157/992/klimahi8.jpg

A = Outlet temperature of the evaporator at sender G263.
B = Ambient temperature.
C = Permissible tolerance range.

vagtuning wrote:

A few vehicle details would have been helpful as well

.

Based on its name, I suspect it's the same vehicle as mine. Then I can definitely measure and compare our temperatures sometime .

Oops - my bad, I didn't see that - well.

Hello, experts!

The diagram looks different from the one my supervisor once gave me. According to that diagram, the outlet temperature should always be between 3 and 6°C, regardless of the outdoor temperature up to 33°C . Only then does it increase, but even at 40°C, it should still be between 5 and 8°C . And one more thing: the curve at the top shows the temperature after the evaporator. My curve shows the temperature at the outlets . Nevertheless, the temperature behind the evaporator cannot be higher than the temperature at the outlets .
Perhaps the curve does not apply to a 3B/BG }.

A newly "filled" comparison vehicle (3B instead of 3BG) had 9°C at idle speed and 5-6°C at a slightly higher idle speed, under exactly the same conditions.

"It's not really about the €55 that a service costs. It's just that my technician always advised against it if the refrigerator is still cooling normally. He supposedly said that every time the system is opened, evacuated, and refilled, it's not good for it. He couldn't really explain why, other than always saying, 'You don't need to service a refrigerator!'"

Thanks again for your tips!

Greetings.

Hmm, the problem stems from the fact that most workshops still have quite old equipment. These machines also draw a small amount of oil out of the system along with the refrigerant, but they don't replenish it. In theory, this means that eventually, there would be nothing left.
However, there can't be too much either... so simply adding 5ml won't do.
The latest devices do this completely automatically and also compensate for any 'loss.'

As far as I'm aware...

Hello vagtuning!

So, it shouldn't have any problems with a fully automated device, should it? A large VW company should definitely have something like that .

Could it be that your air conditioning compressor has a control valve? I don't think the Passat has that. It has a normal magnetic clutch, right? I'm not sure. My 3BG is also from 2002.
Nevertheless, that would then mean that the compressor with a control valve cools less effectively than one with a magnetic coupling .

Greetings.

The above information applies to an Audi A6 model manufactured from 2002 onwards.

Here's a comparison for the same period, up to 2002...

http://img291.

/img291/971/klima2dt4.jpg

A - Air temperature from the 'center' exhaust vents of the switchgear.
B - Measured ambient temperature.
C - Permissible temperature range for the outlet temperature.

The air temperature exiting the 'Center' distribution panels must, depending on the ambient temperature, be within the tolerance range of -C- as specified in the diagram after 5 minutes.

Hello, you professionals!

The diagram looks different from the one my supervisor once gave me. According to that diagram, the outlet temperature should always be between 3 and 6°C, even with an outdoor temperature of up to 33°C. Only then does it increase, but it should still be between 5 and 8°C at 40°C. And one more thing: the curve at the top shows the temperature after the evaporator.

A newly 'filled' comparison vehicle (3B instead of 3BG) had 9°C at idle speed and 5-6°C at a slightly higher idle speed, under exactly the same conditions.

Greetings}

Hello, you need to sort things out again and clarify what temperature you are referring to.

The temperature behind the evaporator is 3°C to 6°C.
You won't get such low temperatures from the air vents if the air conditioning is running at full capacity.
Regulated at 3°C behind the evaporator, they lose approximately 4 to 5°C in the ducts (air ducts). Therefore, outlet temperatures of at least 8°C can be expected at the air outlets.

Generally speaking:
With current R134a systems, any outlet temperature below 10°C when the outdoor temperature is 40°C is considered a very good value.


Best regards, Jochen.

@vagtuning
The diagram below is what I received, and it also applies to the A6 from 2002 onwards, provided that the compressor has a magnetic coupling .

@Jochen
The lower diagram clearly requires an exhaust temperature at the nozzles of 3-6°C up to an outside temperature of 33°C. And still 5-8°C at 40°C outside!
The top diagram shows the evaporator temperature, which is correct. However, in my opinion, these temperatures are much too high, especially considering that they are located directly behind the evaporator.

Greetings.

@Jochen
The lower diagram clearly requires an exhaust temperature at the nozzles of 3-6°C up to an outside temperature of 33°C. And still 5-8°C at 40°C outside!
The top diagram shows the evaporator temperature, which is correct. However, in my opinion, these temperatures are much too high, especially considering that they are located directly behind the evaporator.

Greetings

'To achieve exhaust temperatures of 3°C at the ducks, you need to have a temperature below 0°C after the evaporator. This causes the evaporator to ice up, which stops the airflow. That's why there's also the anti-icing switch, which opens the coupling again precisely in this situation.'
I don't know where these tables are coming from...

Furthermore, exhaust temperatures below 10°C are not really comfortable.

The requirement for a +5 °C increase in the exhaust gas temperature is a demand from various OEMs for models produced in 2008 and later, and it is not easily achievable.

As long as the air is blown out at a temperature below 10°C, the system is operating correctly.

Best regards, Jochen.

Okay, but under what conditions? It makes a huge difference whether the engine is idling or if the RPM is at 2000, or even if the car is moving. It also makes an extreme difference when switching to recirculation mode. Today, despite an outside temperature of 36°C, I had 7°C at the temperature sensor for the exhaust gas temperature (while driving) .

It is a fact that a freshly filled comparison device, when idling, reached 9°C instead of my 13-14°. That is already a difference. The question is only whether this difference justifies a climate check .

Greetings.

'I have the refrigerant refilled every 2-3 years...usually, about 250mg of refrigerant is missing. You can notice the change in the outlet temperature. Before, it was around 14 degrees Celsius when the car was stationary...after the refill, it's 9 degrees. At 60 km/h, it was previously around 12 degrees...now it's 7 degrees, with an outside temperature of 30 degrees.'

Hello everyone!

Here is a brief summary. I went for a climate check today. But as I said, it was just a check, so WITHOUT any vacuuming . Just a pressure measurement and measuring the outlet temperature at the nozzles with a digital infrared device. And I have to say, the value that the measurement block provides can be completely disregarded. I don't know why, the master technician couldn't explain it either, but the measurement block, as I said, gave a reading of 14°C, while the actual outlet temperature was 5°C at idle . At a higher idle speed, it was even 0°C . I saw it with my own eyes .
Can anyone explain why this is the case ? According to this, one should only measure at the nozzles using an appropriate device and not rely on the MWB (manufacturer's data).

I didn't have anything done, especially since the blood pressure readings were perfectly fine.

Best regards,

Quote:

I didn't have anything done, especially since the blood pressure readings were perfectly fine.

The pressures were also fine on my end. However, there was a shortage of 200mg of refrigerant.
Since I was already waiting for the ET from the VZ at the , I had them evacuate it and refill it right away. At the same time, we were able to take a closer look at the condition of the compressor oil.

Subjectively, I would say that the climate control system now provides 20% more power. At least, I can now maintain the temperature level (once it's cooled down) on fan speed 1-2 (unfortunately, it's not a climate control system with automatic features). Before, it was only possible to maintain that temperature on fan speed 3-4.

Hello!
If there is "too much" refrigerant missing, the pressures may not be perfectly accurate. And if the temperature at the nozzles is 5°C when idling, then not a large amount of refrigerant can be missing .

The reason why the sensor reading deviates so significantly from the actual value at the outlets (a difference of 9°C, to be precise) remains a mystery.

Best regards,