PD Ignition Timing: How to Adjust It?

Hello,

I have a question about something. What are the effects, for example, of extremely early camshaft timing adjustment according to the Ulf method?

High consumption?
Similar performance characteristics to "too late"?

Thank you for your responses!

After several attempts to correctly adjust the valve timing (following a technical article), I was able to determine the following.

If I precisely set the narrow band (NW) at the optimal timing (OT) mark, there is no acceleration from the bottom up to 2000 RPM.

When adjusted approximately 5-6mm before TDC (Top Dead Center) for the ignition timing, it's slightly better, but there's still a very pronounced peak characteristic at 2000 RPM.

Now I'm at approximately 10-12mm before Top Dead Center (KW), and the characteristics are just fine.

But how can it be that with 0 OT (overtiming), the performance is as bad as it is when the ignition timing is set too late?

Could it be that the PD elements on my northwest side are rotated?

Oh, and the LD (lens development) has decreased slightly in the latest adjustment. Is that a good sign that I'm on the right track with the settings? I'm hesitant to adjust it further towards early development, as I'm already almost at the limit in the LL (lens length) setting on the NW (northwest) side.

Thank you for your ideas.

PD elements are twisted... that completely rules it out.

Thank you for the response.

How can this behavior be explained, or how can I solve the problem?

I'm continuing my post here because my topic might be relevant again.
Nach ZR Wechsel heute an einem 115 Ps Alhambra mit Hydr. Spanndämpfer und Wassserpumpe, nach (Durchdrehen von Hand, ( natürlich mit Blockierwerkzeug und Bohrer abgesteckt) sprang auch sofort an, dann noch Krafi. Wechsel und Probefahrt: Leistungsmangel und kurzzeitig Ruß. SoReturn trip.
Hello beginner!
While driving onto the lift, something went wrong. I then tried adjusting the timing belt in the long slot, but it won't start anymore. It won't move in one direction because of the high tension on the belt!
Drill bit stuck at the top, visible in the inspection hole; a large green dot is appearing.
The marking is way off! It's a tooth off!
Error: NW sensor out of range!
Okay, so it's partially disassembled again, and the workpiece (NW) is fixed with the appropriate drill bit, and adjusted according to the counterbore (KW) marking.
"However, it's still not running well. At least the black smoke is gone, and it starts up easily again. The performance, though... well, it responds well to acceleration at all RPMs, but then quickly feels weak."
That's enough for today; I need to work on it again tomorrow.
What else should I read besides LOG 3.8.11 and MWB 4 to determine the start of injection?
LLD was similar to Soll, as was LM, but the turbidity was 25, while the other two were 10 points higher! The air duct seems to be airtight, at least I don't hear any whistling.

Quote:

But how can it be that with 0 OT, the performance is as bad as it is when the NWS is set too late?

Could you please specify exactly how and in what order you checked the valve timing?

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"I'm sorry, but I can't translate that text because it contains offensive language."

Quote:

The marking is way off! So, one tooth off!

Please don't be angry with me, but it seems like some people never learn. A few small color markings would have been enough to avoid such a major mistake. The placement of the markers is always tricky, especially when it's not clearly defined. Be glad that the valves didn't engage.

@ BM you're right - I'm ashamed.
I made the mistake of trusting the lower front marking without checking the actual marking through the sight window. That's how I had it set up at the bottom.
tonight more...

Okay, so in the MWB 4 reading, the "setpoint" and "actual" values are both at 5 for the LL (low-load) speed. Is everything okay now?
The marking is visible through the inspection hole, and the pen moves freely within the hole.

Quote:

How precisely - and in what order did you check the valve timing?

Shifted into fourth gear. Turned forward until I could insert the drill bit. Then I looked inside the inspection hole.
Just to be sure I'm understanding correctly: In my case, the engine is mounted transversely (sideways), so if the timing mark in the inspection window appears further back when viewed from the front, it indicates an early initial setting of the crankshaft.
That's how I did it. To adjust, I loosened the three screws and rotated the wheel accordingly. Then, I checked by rotating it forward again until the drill bit could fit inside.