Clutch Pressure Plate Installation Guide

Hi,
it's about the following:
When installing a new friction disc onto the flywheel and then loosely placing the pressure plate on top without tightening the pressure plate mounting screws, what is the typical distance between the pressure plate and the flywheel?

So, the friction disc is actually making contact with the flywheel lining, and I've verified that. Also, my friction disc doesn't have any overhang of the hub towards the flywheel; that is, the hub doesn't extend beyond the friction lining. A collision with the flywheel is simply not possible.
The printing plate can be aligned with the guide pins, and when the printing plate touches the friction disc, the pins are flush with the printing plate, meaning they are no longer protruding but are also completely embedded in the printing plate.
Therefore, there's nothing really standing in the way of assembly.

However, the distance I need to move the pressure plate towards the flywheel using the mounting screws seems too long, approximately 10mm.

By the way, I have a flywheel from an AAT (or at least I think it's from an AAT, it might also be from a 1T), a pressure plate from an AAT, and a 240mm friction disc from a Land Rover. If anyone really wants to know exactly which parts they are, that's the information.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find out the thickness of the friction disc from AAT in its new condition. Sachs couldn't tell me either, because they never manufactured them themselves.
VW/Audi also doesn't know either, and inquiries in various forums haven't yielded any results.
However, the thicknesses of the friction discs are always very similar; they differ by about 1/10mm, not by several millimeters. So, the problem probably lies elsewhere.

I'm a little worried that I might overtighten the pressure plate too much when I overcome the 10mm clearance using the mounting bolt, and then the clutch might not disengage properly afterwards.

Regards,
Jens.

I don't understand your concern.
10mm is a good value.
Finally, the pressure plate also needs to build up pressure, even if the driven disc has become slightly worn.
Furthermore, the Belleville washers move inwards as they are tightened.
The rest is then handled by the hydraulic coupling.
Regarding pedal force, it can actually be slightly better if the pressure plate has more pre-tension, causing the Belleville springs to exceed their elastic limit.
Screw it together and see what happens .
Thankfully, changing the gearbox on a T3 (even on a Syncro) is still quite easy.

Yesterday, I had a lengthy conversation with the technical support hotline of sachs-trading.
After the kind gentleman had selected all the relevant drawings and provided me with the most important dimensions, I was able to verify everything on the actual object.
Result: Everything is okay, it all fits together, and it should work like that .
At this point, I'd also like to give a big compliment to the customer service hotline at Sachs!

Thank you and best regards.
Jens.

Tagessuppe wrote:

Screw it together and see what happens .

Okay, I'll do that too, after talking to Sachs.
The clutch is intended to be installed in a Volvo C303, not in a T3 syncro. However, the gearbox removal is just as "easy" there; you don't even need to jack up the car, it can all be done with the car standing on its wheels .

Regards,
Jens.