Clutch Jerk When Reversing: Causes & Fixes

Hello,

As the title suggests, I have a Golf 4 (sedan, AXR/EUH engine) where the clutch is slipping. But only when reversing! There's absolutely nothing noticeable when driving forward!
Since the rotation direction of the clutch doesn't change, I suspect the engine mounts are the cause. When reversing, these mounts vibrate in a way that causes the entire drivetrain to sway.
A visual inspection revealed no abnormalities. I'm a bit at a loss.

Bertil wrote:

Since the direction of rotation of the clutch doesn't change, I suspect faulty engine mounts as the cause. These oscillate in a way that causes the drivetrain to start swaying, especially when reversing.

Does the engine tilt differently when reversing compared to driving forward? Then it could be explained if at least one engine mount has different spring constants depending on the direction of force.

Could it be that, despite the pedal not moving, the faulty clutch linkage is causing minimal changes in the clutch release bearing's displacement due to the engine's vibrations? From this, a self-amplifying oscillation could theoretically be explained...

ulf wrote:

... Does the engine rotate in the opposite direction when driving in reverse compared to driving forward?

To be honest, I've never thought about that before .
But the drive shafts are definitely rotating in reverse, which means the resulting opposing force should also be directed in the opposite direction. Therefore, the motor should be working in reverse in a direction different from when it's working forward.

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Then it would be an explanation, if at least one motor mount has different spring constants depending on the direction of force.

I had thought about that.

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Could it also be that the faulty clutch linkage, despite the immobile pedal, causes minimal changes in the clutch release bearing displacement due to the engine wobble? From this, a self-amplifying vibration could theoretically be explained very easily. .

In a hydraulic coupling?
Hmmm... Well, I highly doubt that... although I've already experienced some very strange effects with the clutch when using the same combination.

Okay, here's another idea, but what would the defect be? The owner claims that this issue has only been occurring for a short time.

Bertil wrote:

Quote: Could it also be that, despite the pedal not moving, the faulty clutch linkage causes minimal changes in the clutch release bearing's displacement due to the engine's wobble? From this, a self-amplifying vibration could (theoretically) be easily explained. In a hydraulic coupling? Hmmm... Well, I highly doubt that... although I've already experienced some very strange effects with the clutch when using the same combination. Okay, another idea is, but what would the defect be? The owner claims that this phenomenon has only been occurring for a short time.

Somewhere between the body and the actuator cylinder, there must be a flexible, probably curved piece of tubing. This is bent in the opposite direction when the drive block is tilted backward compared to when it is tilted forward.
If the internal volume of the hose section changes significantly when tilted backwards, this volume change leads to modulations in the displacement of the sensor cylinders.
Perhaps the hose section has simply become a bit soft (due to a material defect).

Hi,

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However, the drive shafts are definitely rotating in reverse, which means the resulting opposing force should also be directed in the opposite direction. Therefore, the motor should be rotating in reverse in a direction different from when it's rotating forward.

For the Trabant, a common test for the engine mounts was to engage the handbrake firmly, open the hood, and drive backward towards the handbrake while an assistant observed what the engine was doing.

In this case, it should actually be possible (but with more caution... the handbrake might not be able to hold a TDI in all situations). This is especially true if you have a comparable vehicle that is still in good working order.

Best regards,

Jan.

"I'm experiencing the same problem, sometimes even in first gear. Here's what I do: I put the car in second gear (without the owner present), engage the handbrake firmly, and then slightly slip the clutch (using considerable force, but carefully). Once it's warmed up, it usually stops jerking during normal driving. I believe the clutches are relatively robust, and that we drivers are often too gentle with them, which prevents them from wearing down quickly enough to clean themselves. In my case, I have the original tow hitch, but I rarely use it. I've heard that these vehicles should have a stronger clutch, which would confirm this theory."

What do you think?

mserge wrote:

I also have this problem, but sometimes also in first gear. Take the car (without the owner), pull the handbrake firmly, put it in second gear, and let the clutch slip a little (with quite a bit of force, but carefully). Once it's warmed up, it shouldn't jerk anymore during normal driving. I think this is because the clutches are relatively stable, and we drivers are too gentle with them, so the clutch doesn't wear out quickly enough and therefore can't clean itself. In my case, I have an original tow hitch, but I rarely use it. It was once said that these vehicles should have a stronger clutch, which would confirm this. What do you think?

It might be; in any case, I've noticed on my Touran that the clutch sometimes engages abruptly when cold, and then other times it doesn't engage at all (mileage 65,000 km), but only in the critical 1800 to 2200 RPM range, where I suspect the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) should smooth it out.
Even a very cautious driver only drove it for up to 50,000 km.

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but only in the critical 1800 to 2200 range, where I suspect that the ZMS should potentially smooth it out.

Do you ride a moped? Try shifting in a way that, starting at 1200 RPM, nothing slips or grinds. Then you'll get the clutch to work properly.

@ BM:
For the moped, 2200 is not enough .
"Sometimes, with the Touran, the engine stalls when starting, especially when there are four people in the car and you're using the clutch. It's not always going downhill, and sometimes I just want to accelerate quickly and get away."
Otherwise, it's already below the optimal operating speed, and 1500 is sufficient in that case.

Idea and experience:

"On my G3, the bearing on the rear left side of the transmission failed. It was seized."
And that's exactly what the motor does when reversing - it pulls on the rear bearings.
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I don't know to what extent the "this must be the right mount" that fits the stationary G3 engine can be adapted to the hanging G4 engine.

How do you install the three bearings into the axle housing?

m;