Loosen Triangle Screw on ESP Guitar

Hi,

I want to move my volumetric flow meter for flow rate adjustment and would like to know how you loosen the triangular screw on the ESP . Does Hazet now have a socket for it? Perhaps a Torx socket will fit?

Can you easily unscrew this screw (while leaving the others in place) to replace it with a Torx screw?

Thank you in advance .

Best regards, Christian.

Hi,

haehnlein wrote:

I would like to move my flow meter to adjust the flow rate and would like to know how you loosen the triangular screw on the ESP

.
Pure violence . Due to the lack of a suitable key, I tried to reshape an old pipe wrench -> unsuccessful. The pipe wrench was already rounded and made of inferior material.
I eventually managed to loosen the screw with a pointed tool and patience (alternatingly "corning" diagonally onto the edge of the screw head from opposite sides until it was loose enough to be further turned with pliers).

Quote:

Does Hazet now have a socket for it? Perhaps a Torx socket

would fit.
I'm not sure... Torx & my attempt with a pipe wrench: the problem is that the corners of the triangular screw head are rounded.

Quote:

Can the screw be easily unscrewed (while the others remain tight) in order to replace it with a Torx screw?

Sure, but since it's more effort to find a suitable Torx screw, I used a simple slotted screw instead.

Threadlocker (yellow color ) after the movement is recommended; if any of the screws start to loosen, it can be seen by the formation of cracks.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi.

I widened a 7mm socket (or something close to that size) using a round file so that it would fit.

Unfortunately, the nut was slightly larger than the screw head, so it threatened to spin when I applied torque – in that case, I probably would never have been able to loosen the screw.

To prevent this from happening, I filed down an old windshield wiper blade spring shim at the end until it was very thin, and then cut off a piece that would fit into a straight slot between the screw and the nut. This allowed me to press the nut onto the shim with some force.

That made it easy to loosen the screw.

ulf wrote:

Unfortunately, the nut is slightly larger than the screw head, so it threatened to spin when applying torque - in that case, I probably would never have been able to loosen the screw.

Hi,

@Ulf

For me, the corners are already rusted -> it has already been resolved .... but you could try that.

@Rainer

Using a drill and hammer is definitely not easy... especially if the screw head is stripped .

In a critical situation, I would rather weld something on to help loosen it.
You should never throw anything away... maybe an American socket wrench would fit on it . A drill chuck also doesn't fit because of the indentation.

Best regards, Christian.

Quote:

In a real emergency, I would rather weld something on to help loosen it.

I tried, but since I didn't have a CO2 cartridge, it didn't work.
Paying 30 euros for a bottle and then having to return it almost full a year later wasn't worth it for me.
If the head had been broken off, I would have had to remove the quantity control. Whether I postpone it or remove it completely shouldn't make the roast any less fatty.

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

Paying 30 euros for a bottle that I would have to return 99% full after a year was not worth it to me.

You're right... Your car is galvanized .

Rainer K. wrote:

If the head had broken off, I would have had to remove the quantity setting device. Whether I postpone it or remove it completely, it shouldn't make the roast any fatter.

"also, try knocking... but then a lot of diesel will come out ... let's see if my parts supplier can get a Torx screw."

Best regards, Christian.

...there's also the option of taking it to a Bosch service center and having the screw replaced with a standard one. Unfortunately, the nearest Bosch service center is so far away from me that it would have taken longer to get there than it would have taken to fix it myself.

Best regards, Rainer.

haehnlein wrote:

For me, the corners are already rusted -> it has already been resolved .... but you could try that.

It was the same for me.

But loosening the screw is actually quite simple:

Center a small indentation on the screw. Then, drill a hole into it and use a "left-hand drill bit" to unscrew the screw.

If that doesn't work, simply drill out the entire head of the screw.

Tip: Perform this step before loosening the other screws, otherwise the stuck cover might make the job more difficult.

Caution: Before opening the pump, vacuum up any drilling debris.


After that, the screw should be replaced with a standard Allen screw (as Rainer already mentioned).

Hi,

I bought a small, elongated sharpening stone today for my Aldi Mini-Flex, and after 5 minutes, a perfectly fitting key was ready (for an old 7mm socket) . It's important that you only remove a small amount in an arc shape from the three surfaces that need to be rounded. The other three surfaces should ideally not be ground, as the forces are transmitted through them (in my case, these surfaces were slightly affected, but it still works).

So, it's better to run outside a few times and check if it fits .

Best regards, Christian.

Hi,
If necessary, you can also use a three-jaw chuck.

Best regards, Rudi.

Rudi wrote:

If necessary, you can also use a three-jaw chuck.

Hi Rudi,

I had also considered/tried that, but I couldn't get the drill chuck into the recess... How did you do it?

Best regards, Christian.

Hi,
If I'm not mistaken, the screw protrudes about 2mm from the plastic lid. The drill chuck is relatively delicate (cordless screwdriver) and, when closed, is not flat but rather somewhat hemispherical.
It worked.

Best regards, Rudi.

Rudi wrote:

If I'm not mistaken, the screw protrudes about 2mm from the plastic lid.

Hi Rudi,

Hmmm, I'm not sure what kind of pump you have... mine is located in a round recess in the metal housing, with no protruding parts! The wrench just fits into the hole!

Best regards, Christian.