ERF transmission is grinding

Hello,

"Since it's been so warm, I've been experiencing shifting problems with my G IV. Specifically, there's a grinding noise when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear if the engine speed is above 3,000 RPM – likely a synchronizer issue. Even if I pause for 1 second with the clutch depressed, the grinding still occurs. At engine speeds below 3,000 RPM, everything is perfectly normal, with no noises. The same applies when downshifting from 4th to 3rd gear." If the transmission isn't quite as warm, everything is fine even above 3,000 RPM.

Should I be expecting a gearbox repair soon? The car is almost exactly 4 years old, so there's probably not much more that can be done under warranty.

Does anyone have experience with this, and would a simple oil change help?

VW offers a gear oil with a different viscosity that should fix these kinds of problems. I had it put in for the second gear. After that, it started working again. My problem was that it occurred with very low temperatures and a cold engine...

"Someone here mentioned that the shifting has improved significantly after an oil change. I'm going to get this oil from VW (or somewhere else if I can find it with the same specifications) and try it. I think it's premature to write off the transmission completely. Especially since the 3rd gear..." As far as I know, that particular type of dog isn't the most prone to certain health issues.

Edit: Here are some links:
/viewtopic.php?t=11307&highlight=gear+oil
/viewtopic.php?t=11944&highlight=gearbox oil change

Unfortunately, I have no experience in that area, but...

The first 6-speed gearboxes had shifting problems, which VW addressed by changing the "pawl" (a small lever) inside the gear stick. Do you have the new pawl installed? Michael Neuhaus has compiled information on this topic.

My old CTN box has suddenly started having problems in this hot weather, where shifting into the non-synchronized R-gear grinds if you don't wait an excessively long time after releasing the clutch.

Could it be that the problem we're experiencing is simply due to the heat making the lubricant too thin?

I've been using Castrol TAF-X for about 100,000 km now, maybe I should change it sometime.

m;

It's definitely the new oil, and the manufacturing date is 07/2002. As far as I know, there hasn't been another one like it for quite some time.

There are no visible leaks, so everything should be complete.
If I switch to the thicker oil used in the first AJMs now, I'm sure I'll have problems with it becoming too viscous in the winter.

Hi Roger,


Just try changing the oil first. I did it myself, and it turned out to be at least not bad. I wouldn't use the VW oil; see my article, because they sell it like it's liquid gold. You can find the same specifications in aftermarket products, which makes the attempt cheaper. The oil change takes about 30 minutes. Remove the underbody panel, take out the large XZN multi-spline key, drain the oil, and remove the oil filler cap (also an XZN). If possible, I would prefer to use 0.5-liter containers next time, because with the VW 1-liter bottles, there was only space between the power steering hose and the auxiliary heater with an additional hose.

Regarding the oil theory:

Isn't it the case that oils are "mechanically sheared," meaning that their molecular chains are broken? This makes the oils more easily spreadable.

That would be a good argument for Roger to simply try a replacement with the same specifications.

I don't really believe in VW's "lifetime" philosophy, especially because, for example, there's an expiration date printed on VW servo oils on the shelf, but once it's in the car, it supposedly lasts forever.

m;

As I said, at least subjectively, my experience is that the switch engages much better, and the stiffness is also gone. The oil canisters from GÖL also have a date printed on them (mine is 2/2007, which means it wasn't manufactured then, and it's likely also an expiration date!).

Thank you very much.

I had unsuccessfully searched for my fellow sufferer, and Matthias had already done a good preliminary job. Can anyone tell me the correct Castrol specification for the oil (I don't have access to any literature here and want to order the oil in advance for Saturday = "tinkering day").
The small bottles seem much easier to fill to me.

Matthias,

What did the XZN cost, and where did you get it?

The original part was absolutely unaffordable as an accessory. I got a relatively cheap one (yes, it rusts) for a very low price, but I don't remember the exact amount anymore. If the shipping cost (2 * the shipping price) is cheaper than half the purchase price, I'll send it to you.

Next time, I'll probably use Castrol TAF-X, which has a viscosity grade of SAE 75W-90, the VW approval 50150, and it's available in a 0.5-liter container!

Does the ARL model, with the same transmission, not have an air duct running from the front lip to the transmission? (I can't check that in a catalog...)
If you didn't already have a lip there , then retrofitting the channel would be a way to reduce the thermal load on the transmission.

Thank you, Matthias.
My relatives have an XZN16, but it's the version without the hole.

I was looking on eBay, but I just found one from Nordec.

Is this suitable for that?
He won't have to endure extreme torque .

@joegolf:

Yes, 2 times correct . Well observed.

"In addition to the hose and the pipe, new side parts of the engine insulation are needed to allow the hose to be installed. There's also a bracket on the transmission. Even back then on Golf4.de, the estimated cost, as far as I remember, was roughly over 100 euros. Furthermore, on my recent trips where this problem occurred, the MFA (Multi-Function Display) shows a speed of under 50 km/h and a fuel consumption of around 5 liters per 100 km, so there's no sign of heavy load. It's more like a sluggish driving style with occasional peaks around 100-120 km/h. If the transmission already needs separate cooling, it will likely fail during a high-speed run." I'll probably switch to using oil more often.

Hello again,

I just double-checked the usage of the two oils mentioned.

The G052 726 A2 is actually intended for the 5-speed transmissions of the smaller gasoline engines, and the G052 171 A2 is for the 6-speed ERF transmissions.

@Matthias:
You confirmed the 726 number in the other thread.
Can I actually use the 726 transmission without any problems with a 6-speed ERF engine?
Or did the parts specialist simply make a mistake and confuse ERT with ERF?

There is no recommendation for using a different oil in the manual to address shifting problems.

hello Roger...

I also have the Nordec part (XZN multi-spline). It's sufficient for home use, but I treat it with WD-40 to prevent it from looking like mine, which has a patina that makes it look like it's been lying in the grass for 40 years.

Regarding the oil: I have the 171... I just checked and still have 0.7 liters left. If I confirm the 726, I'll need to find and fix that issue. I definitely have the 171st.


Okay, I've corrected it...

Thank you for the feedback.
Then I need to reorder the oil...

"Tell me how much you had to pay for all that stuff... Personally, if I have to change it again at 120,000 km, I'll probably switch to aftermarket oil. They're just diluting it with water, and the oil prices they charge are outrageous!" I'm curious to see if there will be any regional variations!

I also once had transmission problems.
The VW workshop foreman checked his list of recommended products and suggested I switch to a different type of oil that I could use without any problems.
Since then, everything has been fine, and I've driven over 30,000 kilometers without any problems.

Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text you want me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.