Brake Fluid Change MJ07 to 08

Hi.

I was bored the other day and flipped through the service booklet for my 2008 Golf.

"Brake fluid should be changed for the first time after 3 years, then every 2".
I'm frustrated because I already had it done twice, as the workshop always included it in all the inspections (the car had driven 120,000 km in the first 20 months).

To really annoy me, I look at the MJ 07 Passat:
"Brake fluid change every 2 years"
So, it should be checked and adjusted correctly after 2 years.

Did anyone know that?
The workshop where the Golf was inspected was probably not the right one.

m;

Are you serious right now?
Isn't it better that it was done than that it should be forgotten?
Given such high mileage, it's probably necessary. Why should the first type of fluid last 3 years, while the other only lasts 2 years?

It sounds like the first oil change is recommended after 30,000 km, and then every 15,000 km thereafter.
Sure, here's the translation:

"Excuse me?"

mserge wrote:

With such a high mileage, it's probably necessary. Why should the first type of fluid last 3 years, while the other only lasts 2 years?

That makes sense. The first time, everything is new, but after the change, not everything is new. There are always residual amounts in the system, just like residual oil in the engine.

Yes.
I'm not entirely unhappy about it either.
Apparently, no one knew about the change in the MJ08.

Can you make a mistake during a brake pad change that would cause the brakes to make a rubbing noise afterward?
The front tires have some wear (less than 20,000 km old), but the rear tires are brand new.

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Can you make a mistake during a brake pad change that would cause the brakes to make a rubbing noise afterward? The front tires have some wear (less than 20,000 km old), but the rear tires are brand new. m;

If liquid spills onto the pads, that could be the problem.

The question is whether it would then be "distributed" and whether it would only have a "negative" effect.

The rattling is so noticeable that when you slowly roll towards the traffic light, you can feel the car come to a stop at the last "pressure point."

Similar to bicycle rim brakes, which brake more strongly at the edge of the rim.

m;

According to your explanation, the windshields are either warped or, at most, dirty in the sense of being soiled with oil, brake fluid, etc.
Either take them back to the workshop or fix them yourself. Clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner; if that doesn't improve things, they're probably warped.
Are they not discolored blue?
Perhaps they took it for a quick test drive in the workshop. Was it raining at that time?

The change was made last year.
I don't normally drive the Golf, so I'm not sure if it's related.

I'm just trying to figure out if understanding the root cause (of the problem) helps to find a solution.

m;

. If you replace the rotors and pads, it should be 100% okay.
Based on my own experience with my car, I can say that the brakes from the VAG group are not exactly the most durable. While I find the wear to be acceptable, they tend to warp easily, which means they often need to be replaced prematurely.

Sure, that's fine.

But now, already more toppings... oh no.

Hello, you brake guys .

First, let's go step by step.
Replacing brake fluid is primarily for safety reasons, ensuring the fluid is always free of air bubbles and excessive water content. It's important to know that brake fluid is "hygroscopic," meaning it attracts and absorbs water. Over time, regardless of mileage (whether it's 2,000 km or 200,000 km), moisture is absorbed and accumulates. When this mixture gets hot, the water content forms steam bubbles. Brakes won't work properly with hot fluid because you need to compress the air bubbles before you can build up brake pressure.
I don't know if VW is using a new (better) fluid in the initial fill, whether the initial fill is better (allows for it) because of improved vacuum systems, or simply if the seals are better when new and allow for it. However, I can find out if needed.

2.) Rubbing, overheating, wear and tear.
Unfortunately, there are many reasons for this, and entire treatises could be written about it. Therefore, I will only mention the ones that are most familiar to me.
- Bedding in new pads/rotors: It's very important not to put too much stress on the brakes at the beginning. Instead, perform several braking maneuvers, each using about 20-30% of the braking power. Then, bring the temperature up to the 350-450°C range.
Bring it up to temperature and then let it cool down properly (ideally overnight). Then, brake it in again and it will be perfect. (There's also a professional bedding-in program available, if you're interested, but it takes time.)

- Always allow the vehicle to cool down after periods of heavy use (e.g., braking from high speeds, track driving, mountain descents, etc.). Do not park the vehicle with hot brakes (temperatures > 300-400°C), as this can cause the brake pads to outgas and the rotors to warp.

- Stiff or seized brake calipers (difficult to move, jammed, non-parallel force application, sticking) often lead to uneven brake pad wear and, consequently, localized overheating, as force is only applied at specific points => warping... (see troubleshooting with a seized brake).

- Incorrect friction coefficient settings: improper combination of pad/disc (accessories, etc.).

- Insufficient use: While you shouldn't "torture" the brakes, it's important to "exercise" them regularly. If you drive too conservatively and don't use the brakes often enough, they can seize, become dirty, and develop a glazed surface.
"With such 'conditioned' brakes, it usually takes several braking maneuvers before a usable friction coefficient is restored. This tip can also help with the vehicle inspection (TÜV), so it's best to thoroughly brake them beforehand."

- Chip tuning: The braking system is adjusted to the vehicle's weight, axle load distribution, and performance. Therefore, chip tuning can lead to increased stress on the braking system.
a) Since the top speed is higher, more kinetic energy is released/destroyed.
b) Shorter stopping distances allow for more frequent and intense braking in quick succession.

Okay, now I'm tired - I hope I was able to help.

Best regards.

heating fossil.

hi.

What Volkswagen was thinking in that situation is something that even we don't know for sure.

Some people suspect that VW wants to include an additional inspection between the two-year maintenance intervals, specifically coinciding with the mandatory technical inspection (HU) and emissions test (AU). However, it's also possible that VW simply meant "good" by that statement.

"Anyway, it seems they've gone back to the 2-year BFW program... or have we already switched back to the 3-year rule? It's hard to keep track of what's going on."

BTW: For the Passat 3C, starting with the model year 2006, a new type of brake fluid was indeed introduced .