VTG Sticking? Cleaning Without Turbodemontage

Hello everyone,

The VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) on my Octavia is experiencing its recurring issues again. So far, the solution has been: driving 10km at full throttle on the highway, which then provides relief for 3 to 5 thousand kilometers, but it's quite annoying in the long run. Now, I've discovered a cleaning set (Innotec Turbo Clean Set) that promises a permanent solution without having to remove the turbocharger:

innotec-online.de/index.php?ID=4&section_id=18&subID=151

Here are the instructions for use:

I am sorry, but I am unable to access external websites or specific files online, including the PDF document you linked. Therefore, I cannot provide a translation of the text contained within that file.

What do you think about it?
Does anyone have any experience with this?

Regards,
mcGregg

P.S.: The spell checker is amazing: It changes "Innotec Turbo c.l.e.a.n Set" to "Innotec Turbo vandalize Set" (I've inserted spaces to prevent it from changing it back).

Hi,
da ist die Antwort wohl schon in die Rechtschreibprüfung integriert. Excellent service!

But seriously, the VTG (vehicle traction generator) needs to be repaired urgently (if that's the problem).
hg
Herbert.

That's just pointless window dressing. Loose or flaky soot doesn't block VTG (variable transmission gear), how many times do we have to say it? Anything else that's stuck is then called corrosion or rust.
This stuff doesn't do anything.

Quote:

What do you think about it? Does anyone have experience with this?

"Practice makes perfect." "This company is not unknown."

"As mentioned before, soot alone does not cause the VTG to seize. I would even argue that it acts as a lubricant."

The main problem is the delay of the loader, which, in combination with rust, leads to it getting stuck. My experience regarding this is described here: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=25869

RedR32 wrote:

This is just pointless window dressing. Loose or flaky soot doesn't block VTG connections, how many times do we have to say it? Anything else that's stuck is then due to corrosion or rust. This stuff doesn't do anything.

I'm leaning more towards hardened soot. Rust shouldn't be so easily affected by constant high speeds. At least, not over 200,000 km, which is how old the problem is .

Regards,
mcGregg

Pointless, as I already mentioned, because rust and mechanical deformation will remain.

Our VW service center offers this Innotec VTG cleaning service instead of replacing the turbocharger, and has achieved excellent results with it.
Okay, if you can disassemble and clean it yourself, that's definitely preferable.
But it's still better than paying 1,800.00 for a turbo replacement at the dealership.
But even this miracle product can't eliminate mechanical wear, that's true.

Quote:

has achieved the best results with it

.


For the operation is essential.

"To be honest, in order to achieve a noticeable effect on the metal, the chemical would have to be very aggressive. With this cleaning method, it would also damage turbine blades, shafts, and bearings. No supplier can afford to incur such damage."
As I said, the action is pointless.

The problem with carbon deposits is likely not the carbon itself, but rather the coking that forms as a result of incomplete combustion (although I'm not referring to a lack of oxygen). A cleaner might be useful in this case, and *could* have a positive effect.

Unfortunately, these are only 20-30% of the cases where the VTG (valve timing gear) gets stuck. Most of the time, as Rainer mentioned, it's due to wear or rust... and the only solution is to disassemble it and, ideally, resurface it with a lapping disc.

Hello!

I removed the turbo from my Golf 4, disassembled it, and cleaned it.
It's probably been about 3 years since I got it, and it's still working perfectly.
It used to be a short-distance commuter car for retirees, and the VTG (vehicle traction generator) was caked with soot and dirt.

Then there's another case: with my neighbor's Passat, I really didn't feel like taking the turbocharger out.
I sent it to a well-known workshop that offers turbo cleaning services.
The manager there told me that the success rate is around 40%.
I meant, it's better to do it than to remove the turbo.

In that case, it worked out, it was about 2 years ago, and the turbo is still functioning normally.

Okay, I'd rather try that first. I'd rather remove the exhaust pipe and spray that stuff in for 20 euros than remove the turbo.
Sometimes, you just get lucky...

RedR32 wrote:

Quote: has achieved the best results with it . For the operation it is

essential.
Think carefully about what would allow the workshop to earn more money.

Quote:

"To be honest, in order to achieve a noticeable effect on the metal, the chemical would have to be very aggressive. In that case, this cleaning method would also damage turbine blades, shafts, and bearings. No supplier can afford such damage." As I said - the action is pointless.

Who says that cleaning and lubricating a metal has to damage it?
And if you haven't personally tested this product, your text should contain more than just assumptions to justify that statement.
Ultimately, Innotec has a reputation to uphold, and it wouldn't be able to survive in the market if the products it sells to industry didn't work.

Tagessuppe wrote:

Innotec has a reputation, and it wouldn't be able to survive in the market if the products it sells to industry didn't work.

Generally, a lot of things are sold, sometimes even products that only work due to the placebo effect.

Certainly, it might have an effect on some individuals and potentially bring about improvements, but this will usually remain an exception.

I haven't tested it myself yet, and I probably won't, but if it only removes soot and carbon deposits, it's likely to have limited success when used.

Tagessuppe wrote:

And if you haven't personally tested this product, your text should contain more than just assumptions to justify your final statement.

I've disassembled quite a few VTG loaders, more than some others here, so I know the real cause.

RedR32 wrote:

The material choice for the exhaust housing is cheap.

The posts in the American forum (tdiclub) are written in a quite humorous way...

Americans are truly ruthless. They're using "EZ Off" heavy-duty oven cleaner to get the turbo incredibly clean. It seems to work well, though. And the stuff only costs $4.90.

Some people also wanted to use diluted phosphoric acid to remove rust, but rust was usually not a major issue.

What surprises me the most is that many users have been driving around with completely dilapidated VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) systems for years, and then they are completely surprised by the improved performance after cleaning. They weren't just experiencing occasional emergency operation; they had virtually no boost pressure at all.

Phosphoric acid works well on rust.
This method can also be used to clean up iron artifacts found in the ground.
I've also read about oven cleaners quite often, but apparently some of them don't work well with aluminum.

Kent - One Shot is supposedly quite good for dealing with carbon buildup.
I also have a can of that stuff at home and once I used it to clean an injector nozzle in one shot.
You could clearly see how the crust was flaking off.

I think it's probably just pure solvent, and it smells like Revell glue .