New Battery, Bad Start: Troubleshooting Guide

HI.

Why doesn't the tractor start better than this?
http://tequila.homeip.net/download/3C_Kaltstart-14Grad.html
Monday: It was -14 degrees Celsius. Tuesday: It was also -16 degrees Celsius.
Wednesday -9, it started after 3 revolutions. Wonderful!
Today, the weather is bad again (-14 degrees).


The threshold for the onimous PPD injection seems to be reached.

Log without the TURBO button (sorry, I forgot).

If it runs faster than with the old battery, the preheating time might not be sufficient...

Okay, admittedly, I needed a few seconds today because I was still:

- Ignition on.
- Connect VCDS.
- 01 Engine
- MWB 001 and 016.
- Start log.

Tried to start the engine.

I only started immediately after "Wendel aus" on Monday and Tuesday.

Kann ich das Glühen am BMR verstellen ? I don't think so.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

You have a temperature threshold that varies depending on the temperature. The colder it is, the longer it runs, in order to ensure things like oil supply. The keyword here is 'thick' oil. This is intentional and has nothing to do with the battery .

Older TDI engines had this issue, you might be familiar with it from the cold start behavior. A minimum RPM must be reached before fuel injection can occur. This is still implemented even today.

"Hey, I don't quite understand what you mean."

Is it really supposed to be making that sound for so long?



Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Dude, I don't quite understand what you mean.

Is it really supposed to be making that sound for so long?



m;

Sure. Imagine what would happen if it always started immediately. Think about things like oil supply, etc.

You never immediately start the engine after replacing a filter/oil pump, etc., but instead ensure that the oil supply is adequate. Therefore, let it rotate for a few revolutions without any load . Otherwise, it doesn't make sense.

Comisch.

What's so different about -10 degrees Celsius that it allows the engine to start normally (with the third compression) under those conditions?

Log with TURBO button.

Hello Mulle... I'm just asking to be sure .
You said that the older TDI models also had a similar issue where you have to crank them for a bit before they start.
Do you mean that includes the older VEP-TDI models as well?

My AEL (presumably a small engine) only needs a tiny amount of fuel, just half a turn of the starter, in the morning and it starts right up. When warm, it might use around 2 kilowatts for a few revolutions before it runs smoothly.
It was exactly the same with my AFN.
Okay, starter motor replaced, fuel injection timing set to '62', battery: 5 years old, S-Power, 60Ah, 600A.

Are you sure that all the spark plugs are working properly?
'My ASV (presumably a type of engine) didn't want to start last week even at temperatures above -10 degrees Celsius; it sometimes required three pre-glow cycles and still ran roughly. I replaced all the glow plugs, and three had some continuity, while one was completely defective. After replacing them, it now starts completely on the first cranking motion even at -18 degrees Celsius with just one pre-glow cycle, without any misfires or cylinder dragging.'

Sure.

Thanks to the EURO4 standard, they are individually monitored.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Komsich,

What is so different about -10 degrees that it starts up normally (with the third compression)?

The viscosity of the oil, for example, and certainly also the corresponding starting characteristic curve. You should check (or have someone check) whether it is reduced due to temperature conditions. I mean, yes.


You said that the old TDI models also had this issue where you have to turn them a bit before they start.
Do you mean that includes the older VEP-TDI models?

These were relatively 'unsophisticated engines,' and their control systems were quite simple. Things like start-up timing, motor backpressure behavior, European standards, 'overload protection,' etc., were not taken into account.

Oh, I see .
'Well, I'm glad I have a simple engine. At least it always works. The rest is thanks to the 0W40 oil in the oil pan.'

Regardless of the wear protection, engines used to not have that feature, and people didn't worry about bearings at all. Those engines would last for 500,000 to 600,000 kilometers or more.
I have a T4 2.4D with 1,120,000 km and a VW LT2 2.5 TDI with 860,000 km .

Don't take it personally.
I simply like old-school diesels.

In older vehicles, deviations in production, tolerances, oil quality, or even emission standards don't really play such a significant role.

There's no such thing as a 'downgrade protection' or 2MSR anymore, etc. Things are completely different now. Today, the climate control, the radio, and who knows what else is all integrated into the CAN bus.

Counter question:

Which parameter determines the final launch decision?
I don't see anything that changes at the end of the "orgling" process and can be interpreted as "Okay, enough 'orgling', now he can ignite."

Quote:

I don't see anything that changes at the end of the "organizing".

To me, it sounds like in the clip, it initially starts slowly for the first 1-2 seconds, then speeds up, and finally kicks in.

To be honest, I wouldn't really worry about it. I don't find it unusual, as long as all the cylinders are firing at the same time.

mullemaus wrote:

Depending on the temperature, there is a temperature threshold. The colder it is, the longer it runs, in order to ensure, among other things, that the oil supply is maintained. This relates to "thick" oil. This is intentional and has nothing to do with the battery . Older TDi engines had something like that, you might know it from the cold start behavior. A minimum RPM must be reached before any fuel is injected.

This is still applied even today. But Martin's log in the initial post seems to indicate something different:
As the organ's speed increases, the EM (electromagnetic starter) immediately jumps to its maximum value. Then, with the full starting current applied, it continues to "urge" the motor slightly before finally engaging.
If a few organ rotations before starting were explicitly desired, what would be more appropriate than not injecting anything during that time? }