Pump Düse: Steuerzeiten einstellen (Lösung)

Hello everyone.

I'm currently looking into adjusting the valve timing on my Golf 4 ATD with a pump-injector system. Although I've read a lot about this topic, I still don't quite understand it. The background is that the engine won't start after the timing belt replacement.

I have VCDS, and the error code stored indicates: "Camshaft position sensor G40 outside of tolerance."
I'm currently away on business and won't be able to work on it again until Friday.

Ich stecke also zuerst die Kurbelwelle aus einer vorwärts Bewegung mit dem Kurbelwellenstop auf OT ab. Das gezackte "Fenster" des Nockenwellenrad ist oben. Dann wird die Nockenwelle abgesteckt. Den Stift habe ich jedoch nur sehr sehr schwer einstecken können. Liegt darin schon das Problem? Kann ich die Nockenwelle an der Zentralschraube etwas verdrehen damit er leichter reingeht? Bin mir gerade nicht sicher wie die 4Z Markierung steht. Ist es eine Grundvoraussetzung das die 4Z Markierung zwischen den beiden Nasen von der Narbe steht? Ich gehe im Moment davon aus, wenn die Nockenwelle richtig abgesteckt ist, dann stimmt die 4Z Markierung überein!? Das Zahnrad von der Nockenwelle ist ja mit drei Klemmschrauben auch noch verdrehbar. Laut VW Anleitung müssen diese nach Abnahme des Zahnriemens gelöst werden und das Rad im Uhrzeigersinn bis auf Anschlag der Langlöcher gedreht werden. In der Anleitung hier auf Dieselschrauber steht aber GEGEN den Uhrzeigersinn. Vorher stand das Zahnrad in der Mitte der Langlöcher, jetzt steht es nach der Montage auf Anschlag in den Langlöchern. DaBased on what I've read now, that's incorrect.

It would be helpful if someone could explain this to me again in general terms. Also, what does the marking "4Z" mean, what's the purpose of rotating the camshaft sprocket, and what's the best way to proceed with that now?

Thank you very much in advance.

Greetings.
Ulle1J

Hi,
Are the crankshaft stop and camshaft locking device both usable simultaneously when the timing belt is properly tensioned?
hg
Herbert.

Okay, so, when I finished replacing the timing belt and installed the crankshaft locking pin, the alignment pin for the camshaft sprocket was very, very difficult to insert and remove. Right now, I'm more concerned with the theory of how to properly align everything in case something is misaligned. As I said, unfortunately, I won't be home again until Friday, so I can't do any practical work on the car until then.

According to the instructions here, it seems like you should be able to rotate the camshaft slightly to properly insert the pin, right?
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

Best regards,

Ulle1J wrote:

.... However, the instructions here on Dieselschrauber state that it should be done COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. ....

NO, it clearly states:

The three screws on the NW gear are now loosened, and the top part is rotated clockwise fully against the stop of the elongated holes.


I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

Quote:

what the procedure for rotating the camshaft sprocket involves and what the best approach is now.

Rotating the NW gear (not the NW itself) is intended to allow for adjusting the timing chain tension without simultaneously altering the valve timing.

Hello,
Okay, that's correct. This manual says the same thing as the one from VW. And that's how I did it.

In this guide https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=14854
"However, it states: 'Loosen the camshaft wheel slightly on the three screws and rotate it fully clockwise (the locating pin should still be in place).'"

So, I guess I actually did it right. However, the timing belt pulley is still positioned towards the longer hole on my side.

I think the most important thing is to make sure everything is properly aligned first. Can I slightly rotate the camshaft while the crankshaft is locked in place, so that I can easily align the camshaft initially? And then, can I put the timing belt back on with the pulley loose, tension it, and then tighten the pulley, making sure that the elongated holes are roughly centered and not at the limit?

I assume you haven't been turning the ZR drive from the NW wheel (otherwise, the ZR belt would be overstretched).
Rotate the crankshaft forward in the direction of cylinder 1 TDC until the camshaft locking pin can be inserted. The camshaft window with the teeth should then be at approximately 11 o'clock, and the locking pin should be at approximately 7 o'clock.
If the NW locking mechanism is also difficult to engage, it is probably due to the position of the NW wheel and the NW pulley relative to each other. The locating pin is jammed. This is caused by setting it to the extreme limit. Therefore, the holes in the middle of the elongated holes should ultimately be aligned (= the purpose of an elongated hole, even an RLF can sometimes be wrong). The image in the link also shows this: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=10515
It is only possible to adjust the timing of the crankshaft in both directions, early and late, when the flywheel has been fixed and the flywheel sprocket has been removed.
You need to shift the pulley by at least one tooth so that the elongated holes are more centered. The procedure is similar to when you're replacing the timing belt.
Once the timing belt is properly aligned with the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley, and the crankshaft stop cannot be used, loosen the three screws on the timing belt pulley. Then, move the crankshaft slightly backward and then forward towards the top dead center (TDC) position until the crankshaft stop can be installed. Tighten the three screws on the timing belt pulley in that position. Remove the locking mechanism and stop, rotate the crankshaft twice, and then check the alignment.
hg
Herbert.

Quote:

I'm currently working on adjusting the valve timing on my Golf 4 ATD with a pump-injector system. Although I've read a lot about this topic, I still don't quite understand it. The background is that the engine won't start after the timing belt replacement.

If the NW and KW connections can be disconnected (even if it's difficult, around +/- 2 degrees for the KW), then it's not so far off that the engine won't start.

There is a significant error here.

We've already discussed that: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=25731

The NW (negative working angle) is adjusted solely to make it easier to install the belt, and as Bertil mentions, to allow for tensioning with a specified NW value (without altering the valve timing).
Okay, so the NW wheel should be rotated upwards towards the water pump (in the direction of rotation). When tightening, the NW wheel will move back towards the center of the hole.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Addendum:"

Will the ZR be placed over the KW, then connected to the Wapu, and finally to the NW?

Rotate the rear wheel clockwise.


If the process starts with the main spindle (NW), then it goes to the tensioning roller, then the deflection roller, then the crank shaft (KW), and finally the water pump (Wapu).

Rotate the rear wheel counter-clockwise.


Personally, I almost always start with KW, then Wapu, NW, and so on.
You don't actually need to solve anything there. If necessary, I can pull the crankshaft alignment pin out a little bit when installing it. Fine-tuning will then (if required) be done after tightening. }

Hello,

Thank you for your help. I will try to reset everything on Friday and hope that it will start working again. I honestly don't know what else could be causing the problem.

Since the timing belt has jumped a tooth, I can't really imagine that's the problem. The engine is running normally. If the valves were hitting the pistons, wouldn't you be able to hear that clearly?

Thank you and best regards.
Ulle1J

Hi,
The belt certainly hasn't jumped off. However, the belt drive should not be allowed to spin freely on the non-drive wheel, and it should not be tensioned with force against the locked non-drive wheel.
The NW (negative camshaft) is fixed by a locating pin through a radial slot in the NW rotor, located behind the NW pulley, in a hole on the cylinder head (top dead center position of cylinder 1). Then, the marking for the NW sensor is actually correct.
To adjust the timing, with the timing belt tensioner loosened, the crankshaft sprocket is rotated against the fixed camshaft sprocket. For this to be possible, the crankshaft sprocket must be able to rotate both in the early and late timing directions.
When inserting the pin, use a pin of a smaller diameter initially, so that it goes into the hole in the ZK (rear differential) and doesn't get stuck between the two inner wheel bearings.
Try to get started on it on Friday, and while you're at it, also check the connection of the NW sensor.
Register in advance.
Good luck.
Herbert.

Hello,

I just wanted to give you a quick update. The car is running again. The camshaft was slightly twisted when the crankshaft was disconnected. I followed Herbert's instructions, and everything is okay now.
Thank you very much for that, Herbert . And thank you to everyone else for the explanations and for the help.

However, despite being cleared, the error code indicating a camshaft sensor outside of the tolerance range still appears in the error memory. The sensor looked fine when it was installed.

I've read out a couple of values. In my opinion, they seem to be okay, right?

Injection start -0.0° ATDC.
Injection duration: 5.1°KW to -5.6°KW (this varies slightly).
Synchronization angle -1.7° to -2.2° KW.
Fuel injection amount at idle: 4.1 mg/H.

According to the label file, all values are within the tolerance range.
Or does anything else need to be adjusted?

Regards,

Quote:

Injection start -0.0° ATDC. Injection duration: 5.1°KW to -5.6°KW (this always varies slightly)

Unfortunately, without any context or the corresponding measurement data, it doesn't provide any meaningful information.
It's best to always post the raw log file, but please think beforehand about what you want to record and why, and avoid pointless tinkering.

You can leave the synchronization angle as it is. [Edit: I missed the issue with the error code, please post the error code ("Copy" button in VCDS).]

Possible causes for error code 19464 include:
- Loose or defective sensor/transmitter.
- Problem with the wiring harness.
- Misaligned camshaft (incorrect valve timing).

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi,
Is the camshaft position sensor properly attached, and are the connector and cables in good condition?
Please provide the scan of the MSG.
Please try to adjust the synchronization angle to a range between 0° KW and -1° KW. Use the timing mark (OT mark) on the flywheel for this.
hg
Herbert.

Quote:

And try to adjust the synchronization angle to a range between 0° KW and -1° KW

.

Sure.


I fear that, in some cases, misleading substitute values are being displayed when the actual valve timings are outside of certain tolerances.

Hello,

Okay, the problem with the error code 19464, which indicated that the camshaft sensor was out of tolerance, has been resolved.

I was too dumb to clear the error memory . Although I had done it many times before, I always just clicked "clear" at the bottom of the VCDS screen , instead of at the top...

Accordingly, it was still the same old error message from before, when the camshaft wasn't properly aligned.

"Now, according to the error memory, everything seems to be fine. I'll take a look at the log file sometime this week. I need to refresh my knowledge on how to create it and which data blocks are relevant."

Greetings.
Ulle1J

Quote:

I was too stupid to clear the error memory.

, nevertheless, thank you for the feedback .


Regarding the error memory, it's still within the acceptable range at -2.2°C.