Rust Repair: Lupo Tailgate Rust & Quick Fixes

Hello,

"On my white Lupo 3L, the rear hatch is rusted through – from the inside out. This is the standard steel rear hatch, not the aluminum/magnesium one. The problem area is where the outer and inner panels meet in the lower section."

"Question: Is there any chance of getting a warranty for rust damage on the Volkswagen, considering the car hasn't been to the service center very often? I suspect it's unlikely."

2. Question: How can I temporarily fix this? I've sprayed plenty of Fluid Film inside to at least preserve what's left of the wood. But how do I fill in the holes? Putty will probably fly right out of the tailgate pretty quickly. In the medium term, a new tailgate needs to be installed, but I'd like to drive it for another year without being embarrassed by a completely rotten rear.

Bye.
peace

Quote:

How can you temporarily fix something like that?

Honest opinion: it's best not to do it at all anymore, because it's unpaid work with no satisfactory result.

I would now prime the bare spots. Then, I would carefully cut a piece of protective film (like the one on the rear bumper of a VW Passat 3B), apply it, and paint over it – and that's it.

Of course, there's also the option of filling it with putty, but that requires a bit more skill to ensure a smooth finish without any bumps. To do this, you need to push the remaining material inwards by about 2-3mm to create enough material for the fill, which isn't easy in the area of the grip indentation.

At around €250 for the unpainted rear door, perhaps considering a replacement would be worthwhile? It probably depends on how long you plan to keep the car.
hg
Herbert.

Hello,

At VW, the tailgate is currently listed for €375, and within discount group 8, there's not much happening. Then the window would still need to be replaced (which I can't do), and extensive, proper painting on-site isn't possible either (dusty farm, car is currently unregistered). But a used tailgate is of course an option, and I'm already looking for one.

I actually quite like the process of hammering out dents and applying filler, but I'm not entirely confident that the filler will adhere properly to the tailgate if it's hit with force a few times. However, if it doesn't hold, there's always the option of using adhesive film.

Bye.
peace

Quote:

However, I don't have much confidence that the filler will stay in place, especially around the tailgate, if it's applied with a bit of force.

Falling out doesn't matter; it's probably just a shame for the work. Especially since there is nothing healthy left, particularly concerning Li and RE.

Hi there!

You look for a used one, either on eBay or at the local junkyard; if you're lucky, you might find one that matches the color of your car.

Here, I pay a maximum of 50 euros for a complete, undamaged stainless steel window. You can get it painted cheaply and then replace it when the opportunity arises.

Best regards, Rüdi.

"Yep, a used trunk lid is already being worked on. However, before it can be installed, there will be several weeks, sometimes even months, of work involved. I can only work on it during selected weekends because my job, apartment, and the vehicle's storage location are far apart – it's quite a logistical challenge. Since the vehicle has been in the garage since November last year, and the actual transmission problem has been fixed, it's finally time to get it back on the road – but not with visible rust holes in the trunk lid."

Therefore, my wish is to first temporarily fix something that isn't totally ugly and might last for 6-12 months .

Based on my current research, €50 is more likely the starting price for flippers in condition grade 3 or worse. Also, you still have to factor in shipping costs or the cost of picking them up.

Bye.
peace

For only a few weeks of remaining use, it's not worth repairing the rusty panel. Just leave it as is, or cover it with duct tape if the holes bother you. Invest the money you save into a case of beer, some grilling supplies, and ask your friends if anyone can help you replace it. Then, the inconvenience of the panel will be less of an issue, and the risk of scratching the paint will also disappear.

At our shop, the standard price for door panels from a VW Golf III, Polo 6N, or Lupo is €50. You then choose the one that looks best to you.

The transport is located in the trunk; it only requires fuel for the 30 km to one of the 4 recyclers near me.

Hutfahrer wrote:

For just a few weeks of remaining usage, it's not worth fixing the rusty panel. Leave it as is, or simply cover it with "duct tape" if the holes bother you. Invest the money you save into a case of beer, some grilling supplies, and ask around your friends to see if anyone can help you with the change. Then, the inconvenience of the panel will lose its sting, and the likelihood of scratching the paint will also disappear.

I agree! I wouldn't put much money into it for just one year; the appearance doesn't matter as long as it still runs. I know of many worse, extremely rotten cars that are still running until they reach their inspection deadline, and then either get replaced or scrapped due to major technical issues.

Eventually, the car will be sold, and then that false sense of frugality will backfire. 99% of potential buyers will likely walk away because of the rust.

Hello,

Here's a quick update: The original hatch is temporarily patched up with filler. Unfortunately, the new rear hatch handle wasn't available over the weekend, and so far, the locking cylinder hasn't come loose from the old handle.

I examined the first 50 Euro coin. Although the seller had assured me it was rust-free, it naturally also showed signs of corrosion in that spot. While the spread wasn't as extensive as on mine, I could see that someone had also ground a hole into it during the rust removal process.

I read somewhere that the original aluminum/magnesium rear doors used in the Lupo 3L were replaced with standard steel rear doors in production, among other things, due to corrosion problems. Does anyone happen to know where the aluminum/magnesium rear door had its problem areas?

Bye.
peace

There were several reasons for this, including the manufacturing costs, the addition of extra weights in the bumper to shift weight to the rear axle, and finally, relocating the battery to the trunk.

Hello,

Okay, I managed to get a white flap for 40 euros from the local area. It also has some slight surface rust in the prominent spot, but it still seems salvageable. Alternatively, I could have gotten a completely blue one without any rust - but repainting seemed more complicated than removing or slowing down the rust in the areas that aren't visible. In addition, there was a glove compartment and a can holder from the scrapped car as an extra for the Lupo .

Bye.
peace

You should have just bought the aluminum-magnesium valve cover in the first place.
Then there would be a permanent end to rust, along with improved performance and aerodynamics.
The paint on the inside of my hood for my 1999 Lupo 3L had only a tiny, almost imperceptible bubble.

Hello,

Yes, I could have had access to a red spoiler with a flap for €100, but it would have required a transport distance of 800 km, and the flap wouldn't fit properly in the Lupo. This would have added significant painting and transportation costs. Additionally, I had read that there were also corrosion problems with the aluminum/magnesium flaps.

"So, I took a white van for about 15 kilometers. That was the most economical solution."

Bye.
peace