Clicking Noise While Accelerating: Causes & Fixes

...in right-hand turns.
- Tire pressure is okay.
- Wheels are secure and torque is correct.

The noise only occurs when accelerating while driving forward.
Riding downhill in reverse or with a smooth, controlled style (without carrying a load) is relaxing.

Does anyone have a better idea than using the left driveshaft?

Best regards,
Micha

[edit] This refers to the Octavia mentioned in the signature. [/edit]

What do you hear when taking tight left or right turns?

Best regards from Berlin.
olli

Virtually silent (except for the motor and tire noise).

Then the drive shaft is a good starting point...

Quite simply: Has a small stone or screw been ruled out as the cause of the problem in the tread of all tires?

Hutfahrer wrote:

Just to be clear: Have you already checked all tires for any small stones or screws embedded in the tire tread?

I couldn't find anything, but I hadn't taken the wheel off yet.
However, a small stone or screw would then cause rolling noises without bearing any load (which is not the case).

Best regards,
Micha

Checked the cuffs yet? ... It looks like there's likely a problem with the outer joint.

The tire pressure was okay during the inspection last weekend (when the summer tires were installed).
During the examination earlier, no cracks or leakage were detected.

Local retailers are offering prices ranging from €144 (manufacturer Metelli) to...
240€ (Spidan - I'm familiar with this brand from my Golf 2).
The website still offers SKF products for €160 and Spidan products for €200.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Suggestions?"

[edit] The prices listed are for complete drive shafts; not just the outer joint.[/edit]

Hi,
"I always find it a bit difficult to buy a part when I'm not completely sure whether it's actually defective."
Certainly, that also depends on whether I need my vehicle to be available again quickly.
If you don't want to first disassemble, inspect, and then decide, you should actually buy a complete wave, as it's not certain whether the inner or outer joint is loose.
I can't say how good the parts are. I would probably trust SKF the most (but I only have experience with their ball bearings, and I know that a lot of their products now come from China).
There's also NK, where the whole set costs around 90 euros.

I would expand the wave mechanism, inspect it, replace any defective parts, or, if nothing unusual is found, re-grease it and reinstall it.

On an old Passat 32B, I once had a driveshaft that was drawing in water (causing rust in the outer joint). It was also making a lot of noise; after greasing it and replacing the boot, it ran smoothly for almost three more trips around the world.

Best regards,
olli

Hello Olli,
Basically, you're right.
The car is driven approximately 100 km daily (including work commutes), and we'd like to do something special for Ascension Day.
"It's only possible to transport the trailer. Therefore, I can only work on the project during the weekend, and there are no parts available then."

Then, on the way back today, it was quiet. The clicking sound couldn't be provoked.
(The daytime temperature was 25°C; perhaps some fat has migrated to a place where it wasn't before.)
was was missing ).

Well, maybe I'll be able to get to the bottom of that issue on Friday.
Then, at the very least, there will be some parts available on Saturday.

Best regards,
Micha

Hi!

Didn't the U1 also have a ball joint? If that's worn out, it will make cracking and popping noises under the strangest loads. And it wouldn't be terribly expensive to replace if you do it yourself.

Bye.
corner nut

The noise is still there, or has reappeared.
The 1U likely has constant-velocity joints both internally and externally.
I took a closer look at it today, and it's noticeably larger on the left side.
"In the game, players are allowed to determine the position on the right side."
(approximately 2 degrees to the left, possibly 0.5 degrees to the right).
That settles the plans for Father's Day.

Best regards,
Micha

Hi!

"Could you please put a little oil under the seal?"
Based on my own experience, I can say that it often works very well for a long time.

That once happened to my T3 van. While I was driving, it suddenly started making loud popping and cracking noises, and I thought the whole thing was going to fall apart.
I then removed the boots from the rear of the drive shafts and saw that the grease was dried out. But after 20 years...

Because I'm naturally a bit lazy, I simply squirted in some motor oil and some new grease, and it worked perfectly for many years without any problems.

Hi Steffen!
Thank you for the tip.
This morning, I injected 20ml of LL3 into the joint.
Let's see how it develops.

Best regards,
Micha

Wiesel wrote:

Hi Steffen! Thank you for the tip. This morning, I injected 20ml of LL3 into the joint. Let's see how it develops. Best regards, Micha

Great idea!
If it works, I'd like to inject a little more grease afterwards.

Best regards from Berlin.
olli