Car AC Lifespan: How Long Does It Last?

Now, it was my 2006 Peugeot's turn. Despite no visible leaks, only 19% of the intended amount of R134a refrigerant remained. Because the air conditioning system is pressure-monitored, it simply wouldn't turn on anymore. However, my air conditioning specialist says that further damage is not to be expected.

He also mentioned that the air conditioning systems in many current cars sometimes fail relatively quickly due to refrigerant leakage. While older systems were sometimes functional for 6 or 8 years with sufficient refrigerant, he has increasingly seen vehicles in the age range of 3 to 5 years with this problem.

My 2006 Peugeot 206 seems to be in the range of vehicles that are prone to early failures. As I mentioned, no damage or structural defects were found.

Is it now normal for the coolant to evaporate so quickly? Shouldn't we also be concerned about a significant environmental impact?

Environmental problems?

NO, that lovely R134a is much better than that bad, bad R12...
Whoever believes...

However, I also think 3 years is quite a short time.
It fits into my overall perception of French cars, which is largely shaped by my experiences with two Meganes and a 307.
The good old R19 XRD can't make up for that. (Although, you'll have a hard time changing the GSK on that one).

m;

I personally install and repair automotive air conditioning systems for all makes! Unfortunately, French-made systems often leak, especially at the condenser at the bottom, and the hose clamps also tend to corrode. Initially, the leak is minimal, so it's hardly noticeable, but then it gradually loses more and more refrigerant until the leak is finally detected using a UV lamp or a 134a detector. Some systems still work perfectly after 10 years without maintenance.
I know of a system, in a 1984 S-Class Mercedes, that still works well with R12 refrigerant. However, this type of refrigerant is no longer allowed to be refilled!

Does R134a always contain a UV tracer dye?
Or is it only added later, when there is a suspicion?

m;

Apparently not. My HVAC technician installed it without being asked, and it only allows for a proper diagnosis if leaks are suspected.

On my way to work, I simply let it run as recommended. It probably wasn't running enough, even in the winter. Although the outlet temperature is around 9 degrees Celsius when the system is running, the system doesn't have nearly the same power as the one in the previously driven Suzuki Ignis. The Ignis delivered an outlet temperature of just under 6 degrees Celsius after a longer run time, and it really felt arcticly cold during longer operation. I often had to turn it off voluntarily. I can let the one in the Peugeot run continuously without it getting too cold inside. However, I noticed this right after buying the Peugeot. In that respect, at least nothing has gotten worse.

"Specifically, yesterday, the technicians were looking for any signs of leaks. All potentially problematic areas were already fitted with an additional rubber coating at the factory. The rest looks good. The aluminum pipes are largely stress-free within rubber bushings. Furthermore, the rubber hoses installed are generously sized and should not pose a problem for that reason. The compressor and condenser were dry, and the dryer cartridge was also dry before being replaced. The evaporator was not disassembled, as this would require extensive work inside the unit. The empty system was pressurized and left under pressure for a while. No debris was found in that area."

However, my lowered 206 Eco, which is already quite rigid, is additionally at risk: In extremely hard-driven 206s, the brackets holding the condenser can tear out of the condenser frame. The plastic material develops cracks due to vibrations and eventually breaks. Furthermore, the plastic used there is not really oil-resistant. Contaminants make it even more brittle. Normally, this can be resolved by replacing the condenser, but in the aftermarket, the replacement part should be made entirely of aluminum.


From the history corner: From 1999 to 2003, I owned a rare Opel Calibra manufactured in Finland. It was rare because, despite being a 1992 model, it wasn't rusty and was equipped with air conditioning and an automatic transmission. The quality of the sheet metal at Valmet was inherently better, and unlike the quickly rusting cars from Rüsselsheim, they emphasized preservation. In 2000, I had the air conditioning system re-sealed and refilled in Poland due to decreasing cooling performance. A new dryer cartridge was still available, and for the equivalent of about 180 DM (!), the R12 system was like new again. The air conditioning in the Calibra is absolutely worthwhile due to the large window areas and the constantly circulating heat exchanger of the interior heating system. Otherwise, the interior can feel like a sauna even with mild outside temperatures. According to the Polish workshop, which simply used the recycling technology for refrigerators for R12 car air conditioning systems, about 1/3 of the refrigerant was still present after 8 years. However, this system did not have a pressure monitoring system. A lack of refrigerant can damage the compressor.

dieselmartin wrote:

Does R134a always have a UV leak detection dye in it? Or is it only added later, when there is a suspicion? m;

Okay, and after the fact, in order to locate the leak. Even if it's only a minimal leak, it can take weeks to see any evidence of it!

dieselmartin wrote:

Does R134a always have a UV leak detection dye in it? Or is it only added later, when there is a suspicion? m;

Hi.

"This stuff is being installed by workshops that have no idea how to properly perform leak tests, and unfortunately, about 90% of all workshops in the automotive sector fall into that category."

Professionally, leak tests are performed using a pressure test with a mixture of nitrogen and refrigerant. Initially, a rough leak check is conducted using a foam test with leak detection spray or a mixture of dish soap and water. If this method is unsuccessful, an electronic leak detector is used.







This UV leak detection fluid can alter the viscosity of the compressor oil and, in extreme cases, lead to blockages in the system.

Manufacturers of compressors outside the passenger car sector may even refuse to process warranty claims if residues of these UV substances are found inside the compressor.

It is perfectly normal for an air conditioner to lose refrigerant, even if no leakage is detectable. This is because the compressor is an "open system," and its weak point is the shaft seal. Over time, for example during periods of inactivity in the winter, this seal can dry out, allowing the refrigerant to escape.

In addition to this, there can be refrigerant losses due to the refrigerant lines, and it's quite possible that an air conditioning system will be empty after 2-3 years even if no leak can be found.

Best regards, Rüdi.

"...so, as a simple solution, just run it more often? I admit that I rarely used the air conditioning in the winter. At most, I used it on trips where fogged-up windows due to high humidity were bothering me."

My dad actually makes it even worse; he only uses his air conditioning when the temperature is above 30 degrees Celsius. He thinks that anything below that temperature can be regulated by opening the windows. Strangely enough, he can also quickly clear fogged-up windows with it.

I can contribute something from the VAG front.

Yesterday, I had an A/C system check performed for the first time (because it was on special offer), and I've been driving the car for 5.5 years. According to the employee, about half of the R134a refrigerant was missing. I think that's normal; who knows when the refrigerant was last topped up.

The green dye was automatically and unsolicitedly added by the machine. However, my air conditioning system failed the vacuum test, which caused the employee to be perplexed. When I asked if the leak might be due to his machine rather than my system, as a not-so-small puddle of green liquid had formed underneath it, he immediately denied it, stating that Passat condensers are prone to failure. However, this blanket statement doesn't concern me, as the system has never had any issues. But I'm supposed to go back in 14 days, and then they will supposedly search for a leak at my place for free, which I hope will be fruitless.

Normally, my air conditioning is always off if it's below 25°C, as I don't use it constantly.

So far, my air conditioner is still working, although I've only used it on the last two warm days. The runtime is roughly equal to the driving time, minus about 10 minutes for drying. However, the cooling effect doesn't seem particularly strong to me.

Hutfahrer wrote:

So far, my air conditioner is still running, although I have only used it on the last two warm days. The runtime is the same as the driving time, minus about 10 minutes for drying. Nevertheless, the cooling effect doesn't seem overly strong to me.

Please measure the exhaust temperature, but not when the outside temperature is only 10°C.

Done! Temperature outside the vehicle is approximately 24 degrees. Runtime of the system is greater than 10 minutes. Temperature at the outlet opening, in the center, is 15 degrees. The overall interior temperature then reaches 21 degrees.

The vehicle had been parked in the shade, outdoors, at the ambient temperature.

Hutfahrer wrote:

Temperature at the center of the outlet opening is 15 degrees.

It's far too warm. With the outside temperature, you need to be at least below 10 degrees Celsius; ideally, below 7 degrees Celsius.

I've already taken many measurements during the peak of summer. With BMW, I've always measured values below 6 degrees Celsius, even when the outside temperature was 30 degrees and the engine had been running for about 2 minutes. With Mercedes, under the same conditions, I've even measured values as low as 2 degrees Celsius.

My air conditioning system in my A4 is probably the only thing that hasn't been messed with. It's been working perfectly since 2000 without any issues or needing refills. In the winter, I keep the button set to "ECON," and in the summer, I set it to "AUTO."

Hutfahrer wrote:

Done! Temperature outside the vehicle is approximately 24 degrees. Runtime of the system is >10 minutes. Temperature at the outlet opening, in the center, is 15 degrees. The overall interior temperature then reaches 21 degrees. The vehicle had previously been parked in the shade, outdoors, at the ambient temperature.

As I mentioned before, the outlet temperature is much too high.

"On my old A3 (year 1998), the air conditioning always ran in 'Auto' mode. The only defective part during the entire time was a sealing ring from the expansion valve (leaking, found with a leak detection spray), and the expansion valve itself (due to dirt)."

During the repair/recharge, only a new dryer was installed. I think that's acceptable for 11.5 years of operation. The air conditioning system still worked perfectly even when I sold the vehicle.

Best regards, Rainer.