Gearbox Removal VW Golf 4: DIY Guide

Hello everyone,

I'd like to get your opinion. The Golf in my signature has now reached 207,000 km (approximately 128,000 miles), mostly short trips, and it's also been used for towing. The clutch is starting to wear out, and I was thinking of attempting the replacement myself. To that end, I've modified my homemade pit jack with a new attachment. My plan is to bolt a 40mm (approximately 1.6 inch) thick plank onto the steel plate you see in the picture, and then use some wooden beams and a ratchet strap to secure the transmission to the plank.

I had a motor mount welded on before for tasks like timing belt replacement, and I plan to use it again here to secure the engine.

Do you have any more tips for me? My last clutch replacement was on a Trabant, and that was quite some time ago. I'll make a centering mandrel to the correct size once I take the transmission out and can measure the driveshaft.


Thank you for your tips.

Best regards, Holger.

I changed the clutch on a Golf with an ASZ engine and a 6-speed ERF gearbox using a lift. It really depends on your patience. It wasn't particularly easy; it's quite impractical. The removal process was quick, though.
The installation took a bit longer than expected. I didn't have a jack, so I lifted it from above using a rope. Looking back, I would only recommend doing it with two people.
If you haven't bumped your head, it should work out fine. The gearbox was quite heavy...

Matthias' warning was justified. I managed to get the expansion done on my own. I placed a stable wooden board under the gearbox and used a ratchet strap to secure it. Then, I pushed the engine forward slightly with a piece of lumber, and it worked. Because I could also move the jack sideways relative to the pit, it was a doable task, although physically demanding. It definitely requires two people to get it in, and probably even better with three. My son-in-law and neighbor will have to help out.

I made the counterweight for the flywheel by filing it from a piece of flat steel. The clutch is finished; it's obvious, and the rivets are just below the friction lining. Otherwise, everything looks dry and verschandeln after 14 years and 208,000 km.

My question to you is what else I should be aware of, or what else I should consider changing.


Thank you, and have a lovely rest of your Sunday.

Holger.

Hi there!

The last time I replaced the clutch on a Golf, I did it entirely in my shed using only a bottle jack. I supported the engine and used a jack to lift the transmission out and back in, and unfortunately, I was always doing it alone.

So, everything is possible.

Best regards, Rüdi.

It was also mentioned before. It's feasible, yes. But it would be easier with some help. Since less experienced DIYers might also be reading this, I wanted to emphasize that the task is a real challenge. Doing it alone is already quite difficult.

Good evening everyone,


I replaced the oil seal on the crankshaft. It seemed advisable to do so because the initial leaks were quite noticeable. We installed the gearbox with two people. I used a hydraulic jack from below, and my son-in-law rigged up a hand winch attached to the motor mount from above. We placed two 50 cm long wooden blocks around the gearbox, and he pulled it upwards using the winch. This preparation made the installation easier than the removal. Thanks again to Matthias for the warning. Tomorrow I'll finish the remaining assembly; that's enough for today.

I'm attaching the old "parking disc" to my daughter's parking spot in the garage, with a note reminding people not to block the intersection by stopping permanently with the clutch depressed.

Have a lovely evening and a happy Easter!

Holger.

How about a lift?

I tried it once with ramps... never again.

I think your idea is great.

The car has been running without any problems since the clutch replacement, and it feels like first gear is easier to engage again. Regarding your question, the pit jack in the picture is a fairly simple homemade design. It's made from 40mm square profile tubing and some flat steel. It runs on four ball bearings within the guide rails of the pit, and the bolts for the bearings are welded to the flat steel. The hydraulic cylinder comes from an engine crane, which you can find relatively cheaply online as a spare part. The most work involved was fabricating the steel plate and creating the circular recess for the cylinder. It's also adjustable in height using threaded rods. I also use it to lift the car for other tasks by attaching a transverse beam, which works great, and I don't have any jacks standing around at the edge of the pit.

Best regards, Holger.