Golf IV ALH Torque Specs: Engine Mounting Console

Hello,

I'm currently looking for information on the topic of "suit moments."
After the engine mount broke off the block (on a 1.9 ALH), I'm currently in the process of replacing it.
Part number 038199207H.

A block repair kit from Dieselgeek has already arrived, including a longer bolt. Could someone please help me find the corresponding torque specifications? So far, I've only been able to find the 100 Nm specification for the engine mount.
The bracket is secured with 3 screws, two of which are different types. One of the screws will be replaced and screwed into an aluminum thread with a housing depth of approximately 3cm. Is it possible to roughly estimate the torque required here?

Certainly! Here's the translation:

"Thank you very much."
VG Steffen.

Hello!

When it comes to critical things like that, I rely more on my experience, intuition, and common sense.
Years ago, I also had the idea of perfecting everything and tightening every bolt to its specified torque. While this might be justified during the assembly of new cars, in my experience, it's not necessarily beneficial when repairing older vehicles. In fact, I often encountered more problems using the torque method.

I think it's because people switch off their brains and just wait for the click of the key.

Just make sure the screws are easy to tighten initially, then they should quickly become secure. Give them a little extra turn for pre-tensioning, and that's it.

It's already very tight around the engine mounts on the ALH, so you're just relieved that you can somehow get the screws in at all.

Steffen G wrote:

It's already very tight around the engine mounts on the ALH, so you're just relieved that you can somehow get the screws in at all.

Above all, especially if the lower screw is still stuck in the block *g*.
I glued it on with a second screw using 2K adhesive, and so far it hasn't moved. It was worth a try...

Oh yeah: Just discovered that the screws need 40 Nm of torque plus a 90-degree turn. For the top screw, which is now engaging with the aluminum part instead of the block, I'm just going to rely on my gut feeling.

VG Steffen.

Hi!
Here are the modern torque specifications; a few years ago, it would simply say something like "86 Nm." It's better this way because if you think you might not be able to achieve the full 90 degrees because it's already quite tight, you can just stop, and that's fine. This gives you more leeway, I'd say, in terms of common sense. I noticed something similar with my screws on the KW pulley.

And what exactly happened to you?
Man sieht ja auf den Bildern, wenn ich das richtig einschätze, eine abgebrochene Schraube im Motorblock, und dass der Halter wohl einige Zeit am Motorblock gerieben hat. Or, it was relaxed.

I'm only asking because I have the same Golf and recently replaced the ZR. It's quite a job to get the engine mounts out, and I also had a thread problem, but luckily it was only in the mount itself. I managed to fix it by re-threading it.

A steel screw into aluminum is different from a screw into steel or cast iron.
I wouldn't blindly copy design specifications that refer to the combination of steel and cast iron, as well as specific screw diameters and material grades.
You can either do it based on your feeling, as described by Steffen, or you should obtain the specific torque specifications for connections that are subject to higher loads.
hg
Herbert.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Edit"

Quote:

I glued it on with a second screw using 2K adhesive, and so far, it hasn't moved. It was worth a try...

What is supposed to hold it?

And please post the images here, not somewhere else!

Hi,


After the second-to-last timing belt replacement, I noticed a rattling sound. It was coming from the screw on the engine mount and the washer underneath it, which had somehow been forced onto the broken thread.

(Image now attached, but I'm unable to place it here or resize it. It appears a bit wide, as it's being streamed from my smartphone to my laptop.)

Of course, the disc was tilted, and the nut had already become noticeably loose after just 2 weeks, wobbling at idle speed. Naturally, there was no one to ask, but I was aware that the screw needed to be loosened for the timing belt change. I expected some kind of notification: "Hey, you're missing the thread for the third screw, or something similar." Since nothing like that came up, I assume that it was still okay before the timing belt replacement.

"Until this point, I had used only 4 screws and driven quite a few kilometers (90,000 km) before the next timing belt replacement was due. After explaining the problem, we decided to repeat the repair/maintenance in the same way and use the remaining 2 screws. Last week, my sister called me saying that the car was making strange noises, and I inspected an engine that was hanging about 2 cm above the asphalt."

Condition: The bracket was still attached to the mounting point, but on the body side within the rubber grommet, although it was tilted 45 degrees downwards and wedged diagonally between the longitudinal member and the engine block. The outer, lower screw was broken, while the central one in the timing belt area was still present, although bent. The timing belt cover was damaged, but surprisingly, the relatively new timing belt itself was undamaged. It seems the bracket actually chose the only available space within the timing belt area.

Ordered a block repair kit from the internet for €100, got a bracket, timing belt guard, and some screws for a cheap price. Now I just need to get that screw out of the block. I usually manage to figure things out myself, but I'm not an expert and have absolutely no experience with broken screws. I'm curious to see if it can be removed. It's difficult to move the car into a workshop when the engine is propped up on wood.

Best regards,
Steffen


EDIT:

Herbert wrote:

A steel screw in aluminum is something different than a screw in steel or cast iron. I wouldn't blindly copy design parameters that are specific to combinations of steel and cast iron, as well as certain screw diameters and material grades. You can either do it based on your feeling, as described by Steffen, or you should obtain the specific torque specifications for connections that are subject to higher loads. hg Herbert. Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English: "Edit" Quote: I glued it on with a second screw using 2K adhesive, and so far, it hasn't moved. It was worth a try... What is supposed to hold it? And please put the pictures here, and not somewhere else!

The timing belt tensioner mechanic doesn't have time to help me and said the broken screw might be "loosely" stuck in the block. He suggested gluing an M10 screw onto it with two-part adhesive and carefully trying to unscrew it. I wasn't hopeful, but I tried it anyway. I guess I'll need to figure out a way to use some tools or improvise a motor mount so I can at least tow it.

Images can be easily transferred from the camera or smartphone's storage to a PC or laptop as a JPEG file via cable.
The picture posted above is useless. The thread is completely unusable; the part is junk.
You definitely won't be able to get a stripped or stuck threaded bolt turning if you glue something onto it.
Please create a usable image from this and post it here.
hg
Herbert.

"Edit: Regarding the stripped screw in the picture (in my first post), you'll need to drill out the center of it, and then you can try using a left-handed extractor to remove it."

Hi,

Quote:

(Image now attached, but I'm unable to place it here or resize it. It appears a bit wide because it's being streamed from my smartphone to my laptop.)

I actually thought the "Record with Camera" button above the "Submit" button was foolproof, but what's the problem or what isn't working there?

Best regards, Rainer.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hi,"

Quote:

(Image now attached, but I'm unable to place it here or resize it. It's a bit wide because it's being streamed from my smartphone to my laptop.)

dieselschrauber wrote:

Hi, I actually thought the "Record with Camera" button above the "Submit" button was foolproof, but something's not working properly – what's the issue or what isn't functioning? Best regards, Rainer

Das war hauptsächlich auf die Darstellung des Beitrages bezogen. Geplant waren 1-2 Zeilen, darunter 1-2 Bilder in verkleinerter Darstellung, dann wieder weiter mit Text, wegen des besseren Überblicks. So mache ich das gewöhnlich in Forenbeiträgen um den Überblick zu erhalten. Das hatte ich nicht hinbekommen und so hab' ichs jetzt halt in voller Größe am Ende des Beitrages stehen. Macht Okay, no problem.
The warning was a precaution, as I was recently scolded in a forum for posting an image with a width of 1920 pixels, because it's apparently obvious that there are people using monitors with a resolution of 1024, who then have to scroll horizontally. I actually thought that I wouldn't be causing any resolution-related issues for anyone using a monitor/computer that is 10-12 years old, especially in an age where we have 4K phones.

I assumed that the "Record with camera" button would access the camera of a smartphone or the webcam of the laptop.
EDIT: It seems to be the case. I'll try that method next time; I wasn't aware of it before.

Quote:

Images can be easily transferred from the camera or smartphone's storage to a PC or laptop as a JPEG file via cable.

There is nothing further that can be done with the posted image above.

Quote:

Imagine the car parked on the side of the road, and I was up above it, sticking my phone about half a meter deep between the bodywork and the engine. After taking about 50 overexposed or blurry photos, I put the laptop on the engine, started a video stream, and then took screenshots with the best possible view. You can barely see my hand in the picture. Unfortunately, it's probably not going to get any better; right now, it's also raining.

The thread is completely unusable; the part is scrap. [url]

This part is the engine block. I agree with you about the broken eye (?) at the top. This set will go in there instead; it's already here with me. https://www.dieselgeek.com/Broken_VW_Engine_Block_Fix_for_ALH_and_BEW_TDI_p/vg-mk4alh.htm?CartID=1Es[/url]

Quote:

Did you see that I updated the image above? Currently, the focus on the lower part with the remaining screw is solely on removing that individual screw.

You definitely won't get a stripped, stuck bolt to turn if you glue something onto it.
Please create a usable image from this and post it here.
I'm sorry, I can't translate that without more context. "hg" could be an abbreviation or a code, and I need to know what it refers to in order to provide an accurate translation. Please provide more information.
Herbert

Quote:

I noticed that. As I mentioned, there was a suspicion that the threads might be loose, and I was asked to try something before having the car towed. The engine is currently resting on the ground and needs to be properly supported before it can be towed. And for a 3km distance, I don't want to just use one screw in the block and another attached to this aluminum adapter to allow the engine to at least support itself. After all, the screws are at the same height, so I suspect there is significantly less stability compared to mounting with a vertical offset of at least 10-15cm.

Edit: The stripped screw in the picture (first post) } will need to be drilled out, and then you can try using a left-handed extractor to remove it. }

"Yeah, it looks like that's the way it's going to be. Since this would be my first attempt, and I'd rather practice on less critical parts than an engine block, I'll probably improvise a motor mount and then take it to a workshop that specializes in drilling and tapping."

VG Steffen.

Regarding the issue of removing the remaining screw fragment:

Somehow, we need to find a way to create some workspace.
Using a shielded gas welding machine, carefully spot weld a few points directly in the center of the remaining screw threads; fortunately, in this case, it's not embedded too deeply.
Put an M10 or M12 nut on top and attach it.

At least with this method, I've already been able to save a few lives , without having to be disassembled.

Gremlin wrote:

Regarding the issue of removing the remaining screw fragment: Somehow, find a way to have some space to work. Using a shielded gas welding machine, carefully spot weld a few points directly in the center of the remaining screw threads; fortunately, in this case, it's not embedded too deeply. Put an M10 or M12 nut on top and attach it. At least with this method, I've already been able to save a few lives without having to be disassembled.

Just like before, I have successfully removed all the broken studs and screws from blocks and heads .

The trick is to let the entire thing cool down properly after welding.
Cooling causes the bolt/screw remnant to shrink slightly more than before.
The remaining pieces were about 90% loose.

Regards, Mpire.

Perhaps off-topic, but I am asking for clarification due to a lack of experience :
How do you center a non-protruding bolt (M8 - M10) and place a part on top of it? Is the raised portion around the bolt head high enough to allow welding in the gap?
hg
Herbert.

Hi there,

Up to a depth of 2 or 3 millimeters, it's actually not a problem. You just need to aim the wire precisely. And eventually, the material buildup will be high enough that you can also weld the nut in place.

Best regards from Berlin.
olli