Clutch Pedal Return Slow: Troubleshooting Guide

Hello everyone!

I noticed that the clutch pedal on my friend's Golf 7 is returning slower than usual.

Initially, I suspected that the brake fluid might be the culprit, as it has been in the system for 4 years. During the last service, it was only checked and deemed okay. That in itself is quite something...

I then changed the clutch master cylinder myself and noticed that the pedal doesn't return to its original position after being pressed. You have to push it back manually. However, I'm used to the clutch pedal returning on its own in all the vehicles I've changed the clutch master cylinder in before. After that, everything works normally again, except for the slower return.

Is there a spring in the pedal assembly that pushes the pedal back? Or is the master cylinder solely responsible for that now?

Hi.

I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.
Have you checked for similar posts?
Unfortunately, I can't help you with your question about the feather.

Best regards, Rainer.

Subject: Brake Fluid: If the workshop measured the boiling point and found it to be within the acceptable range, then it should be okay.

Hello everyone!

First, regarding the brake fluid, it's possible that the boiling point was within the acceptable range. I once had a similar experience. The workshop said the boiling point was fine, but when we changed the brake fluid, it came out black as pitch.
What was, fortunately, not the case with the golf, was that it was more like dark apple juice .

Okay, regarding the other topic, yes, I'm familiar with it, but that doesn't apply to our Golf *yet*. In the other post, the entire system is closed, and the clutch doesn't return. In our case, with a closed system, the clutch returns slower than it should, almost as if it's a gradual process of a failing component. With an open system, you have to manually push the pedal back.

That's why I was wondering what's pushing the pedal back when the system is open? Is it more likely the sensor cylinder?

dennis91 wrote:

Therefore, my thought was, what pushes the pedal back when the system is open? Is it more likely the master cylinder?

The documents on Erwin (siehe Fehlerdatenbank) would provide that information. You might invest a few euros and purchase the documents as a download.

However, the fuel injector is strongly suspected as the culprit. A Google search confirms that this is not an isolated incident.

Okay, try this test: rapidly press and release the clutch pedal several times, and then see what happens. If the clutch seems to work perfectly fine for a short period after that, as my predecessor mentioned, it's likely a sign of a failing slave cylinder.

In recent years, quality has increasingly been ensured through certification of the production facility, whereas decades ago, quality was actually produced.

dennis91 wrote:

Therefore, my thought was, what pushes the pedal back when the system is open? Is it more likely the master cylinder?

The pressure plate is located above the clutch cylinder on the transmission.
If the disengagement and engagement mechanisms are working, the hydraulics are sealed and free of air, but the backflow during engagement pushes so forcefully past the actuator's piston that the tension of the return spring is not sufficient to overcome it.
Probably a donor exchange.
hg
Herbert.

Sorry for the late reply.

So, if you pump the pedal quickly and repeatedly, there is no improvement.

I'm also increasingly drawn to the idea of being a giver.
As far as I can remember, it's attached to the pedal. How the heck do I get that pedal out? It's "only" held on by three nuts, but do I have to disassemble half of the footwell to do it? I can only see one nut.

Best regards!!

Isn't there a ball joint connected to the piston rod that's held in a plastic bracket?

Wow, that's a good question, next question . I'll have to take a closer look at that sometime.