Clutch seized/stuck/welded

Hello everyone,

It's an error pattern that's unfamiliar to me, and I can't define the cause.
Multicar M26, driven and parked. After a week, it was started again, but it was no longer possible to engage any gears.
The clutch system was bled and inspected. Afterwards, I removed the transmission and was unable to detach the friction disc from the clutch actuator. This could only be done with a small lever.
It looks like the coating has really burned on.
The clutch is approximately 2 years and 3000 km old.

How can something like that happen?

Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.
Thilo.

Hello!
I really didn't want to write anything while on vacation, but I'm making an exception here.
You can see the rust yourself.
The clutch lining is becoming very hard and brittle. It's likely a material issue, and also a design problem. I'm wondering how so much water is getting in there.

There's nothing you can do about it.
It could be solid again in as little as 2 weeks.

"I've experienced this before, and my M 24 has had it happen occasionally. It seems to be a common issue with other vehicles as well, especially if they've been sitting for a long time."

But before you disassemble the transmission again:

Let the engine warm up for 15 minutes first.
Then you should start it with the starter in second gear. Or, if you can, start it in first gear and then shift into second without using the clutch. It's helpful if two people push the car while it's starting.
And then, drive around in circles. Of course, constantly depressing the clutch. While doing this, occasionally give it some gas and also brake.
It might take about 10 minutes. But so far, I've been able to release every clutch.

"I also occasionally encounter couplings that are stuck, and I usually deal with them in a similar way to what my predecessor described."

Hello,

Perhaps a bit more about the cause: of course, corrosion must be avoided. So, avoid damp, humid, or salty storage locations, and maybe check to see if water is constantly dripping (e.g., a hole in the gutter).

I'm not familiar with the Multicar, but things like a hole in the front of the cargo bed, which would cause rainwater to drain over the transmission, would obviously be undesirable.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello,

Unfortunately, I wasn't clear about the issue with the friction disc getting stuck, and since replacement parts are charged with a gold dust surcharge, I didn't want to delve into a potentially deeper defect and rule it out.

"Before my purchase, the clutch was replaced, and I noticed a complete lack of grease on the transmission shaft. Additionally, a rubber stopper is missing from the top of the transmission, which I believe is the cause of the water ingress."

Should I lightly sand the flywheel and clutch disc, or should I leave everything as it is? A new clutch would cost €500, but it's not worn out.

It was frustrating; the installation took over 4 hours.

Hi,


If the mechanics are okay, I would just remove the rust spots. Perhaps there's a silver rust-inhibiting paint, like the kind commonly used on brake discs, that could be useful here?

Wellen und Verzahnungen natürlich noch mit geeigneten hitzebeständigen Schmiermitteln schützen. Cu Paste?
Of course, you have to be careful not to use too much.

Best regards, Rainer.

The vehicle is running again.
From a feeling perspective, the clutch now also seems a bit more sensitive and engages more smoothly.
I think that's mainly because the moving parts simply received some oil and grease.
I hope that the rubber stopper on the top of the gearbox will prevent water from entering in the future, and that I won't have any more problems.
The action effectively took 10 hours.

Thank you for your suggestions; next time, I will try Steffen's method.