LDA Connector: Installation & Guide

Hello community!

I recently purchased an LDA (likely referring to a laser diode array) as part of an upgrade, and I'm now planning to attempt the installation myself.
The blue LED conversion wasn't a problem, but connecting it to the engine is giving me a headache.

According to a KW-Systems employee at their booth at the EMS, I need to...
Engine (AGR) - an adapter for the turbocharger pressure sensor:
http://www.kw-systems.de/zubehoernews-Dateien/image012.jpg
I find the price of 49 euros too high, and I'm considering making one myself.
I would have to ask a teacher to get me some machine time and aluminum (which is traded like a precious metal).
I also have concerns about the impact on the sensor, specifically that flow dynamics could occur, which would distort the measurement.
Okay, I'll post a picture of the sensor later; I don't have one handy right now.

Is there perhaps a hose on this type of engine that I can connect something to?
Could you tap into a T-fitting?
I'm going to avoid the method suggested by ulf, which involves drilling into the EGR module, for the time being.
Looking forward to your replies!

Best regards,
Ruki

Hi,

While I can't directly help you with the actual problem right now, I'd like to know: where and how is this kW adapter supposed to be connected?

Instead of the original pressure sensor, this one is screwed into the adapter!

Regards,

Manuel.

Hi Manuel,

I had thought about building one myself, but then I gave up because of the issue with the airflow. I then glued a very cheap plastic fitting into the pipe using two-component adhesive (you have to remove the pipe for this, because of the sawdust). It should be exactly the same process for you.

Details and photos can be found in the technical article on digital LDA and oil temperature.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hi Ruki,

I own an A3 with an AGR engine. Therefore, I am quite familiar with the engine and its components.
I would tap into the pressure hose that is used to control the wastegate turbocharger. There are several possible locations for this.
You can tap into the line near the wastegate control valve or directly at the outlet of the pressure pipe.
The location is relatively easy to find. If you look at the right (left-hand side when facing forward) solenoid valve in the engine compartment (it's mounted quite high on the engine splash shield), you can follow the thin pressure hoses. One goes directly to the pressure sensor of the turbocharger, and the other goes to a small T-connector on the pressure pipe. This is where you need to be. Of course, you can also install a T-connector somewhere between this connector and the valve.
There is still a slight uncertainty, as the air column in the line is stimulated to oscillate by the magnetic valve. The magnetic valve operates with a fixed switching frequency and a variable duty cycle to "mix" the ambient pressure and boost pressure to generate the control pressure for the wastegate.
This creates a pulsating flow, which can be more or less strong, within the pressure hose. In the worst-case scenario, this tapping point is then unsuitable.

Before you go to great lengths elsewhere, I would first suggest trying this simple method of connection. If it doesn't work, then you can always choose a more complicated approach.

Regards,
Alex.

Hello again!

Yes, the aluminum part is installed between the pressure sensor (near the windshield washer reservoir) and its original connection on the flange.
Here's the translation:

'I have another question about this: what exactly does the sensor measure, and what is the purpose of this extension? Is it absolutely necessary for this extension to protrude into the pipe?'
Here are some pictures:
http://webalbum.hartlauer.at/home/1038084940/A0006/0001.m.jpghttp://webalbum.hartlauer.at/home/1038084940/A0006/0002.m.jpg
http://webalbum.hartlauer.at/home/1038084940/A0006/0003.m.jpghttp://webalbum.hartlauer.at/home/1038084940/A0006/0004.m.jpg
Unfortunately, the labeling is difficult to read (from left to right & from bottom to upper.
- Connecting nipple;
-A static/external pressure port?
-Ist dieser Stengel ein T-Fühler?, Ist die Vertiefung (mit Loch i.d. Mitte) der eigentl. Pressure sensor?
- Section drawing

Does anyone know these details?
By the way, are there perhaps more photos of the AGR valve conversion in Urs' article?

Thank you also for the tips you've given me so far!

Hello.
Ruki.

Hello,

A temperature sensor is installed in the nozzle, which protrudes into the pressure charging tube.

Best regards, Rainer.

...and it should also be located in the airflow, otherwise you might experience rust or less power than it should actually have .

CU Gremlin.

Hello Ruki!

Why don't you simply try the tapping method I described? You're not taking any risks, and you only need a Y- or T-connector, which you can get for just a few cents.

Regards,
Alex.

Hi Ruki,

'I also had that issue with the adapter for the boost pressure/charge air temperature sensor on my ASV.'
Tried that already. I made two different parts myself, one 1.5 cm thick and the other 8 mm thick.
dick. Mit dem 1,5 cm Teil hatte ich subjektiv mehr Russ, mit dem 8mm Teil wars ok. The departure...
However, the poetry was not professional. I ultimately decided to go with ULF's solution (AGR).
(to drill). In your drawing, the sealing is the same as the original, but the sensor is completely different.
'To avoid being caught in the airflow, I would definitely use either donalexo's or ulf's solution.'

Just to reassure you about the changed temperature readings: I once tried connecting fixed resistors instead of the sensor to my AHF, and it didn't really change the driving characteristics or soot production.
If the temperature sensor is located further away, it will respond a bit more slowly and measure the temperature a few degrees incorrectly. It only becomes critical when driving at full throttle and in a place like Death Valley. In that case, the outside temperature will be a few seconds delayed. I wouldn't worry about it too much, though.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi!

First of all, thank you to everyone for all your tips and experiences!

@Achim:
How do you mean that regarding the 15mm and 8mm? Could you post a sketch of it?

@donalexo:
I won't be able to access my instruments and the T-piece again until Christmas (they're at home, and I'm not). I wanted to research all the possible options.

Greetings, Ruki.

Okay everyone, it seems like everything is quite complicated.

The intake manifold is made of cast aluminum, which makes it easy to drill a hole and tap threads to screw in a model-making fuel line fitting, secured with Loctite. Attach a hose – and you're done.

If you work near the EGR valve, you can remove the drilling debris through the removed EGR valve, and you don't need to remove the intake manifold.

Time required: 1/2 hour. Cost: irrelevant. It was much more difficult to obtain a reasonable LDA (Letter of Demand).