Which engine is struggling right now?

My 1Z is having a bit of trouble starting when it's really freezing cold (-12° Celsius). It cranks for a short time, then the starter speeds up, and the engine eventually starts. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm not too worried (mainly because of the temperature, and because the engine eventually starts, and it's probably also because one or two glow plugs are faulty). I'm just wondering if other TDI engines do the same thing.

Best regards, WarLord.

"Mine has problems when it's below -7°C, I'd say. It starts very poorly in the early morning, reluctantly, and with a rough idle, as if not all the cylinders are firing correctly. If I give it a little gas (or sometimes more), it runs fine once it's started. There are no problems then. In the evening, when I drive home from work, it starts well, but during the day it's also a bit warmer, and the car is parked in front of the company building, sheltered between buildings. So, it seems to be a fairly small temperature range where this starting problem occurs. All my glow plugs are new! However, the glow plug heater elements are several years old, I have no idea how old. But they shouldn't necessarily be the cause."

I also have a 1Z.

But because it's incredibly hot here (plus 1) and I have a garage, I can't confirm that.

But even during the previous winter (even when temperatures were around -10°C - I've only had the TDI since the summer of 2002), it had no problems if it was left outside for a while.

He couldn't get it warm because the fuse for the glow plug heating was blown.

You can easily measure the glow plugs because the power rail is much easier to access than it was with the old swirl chambers.

Simply measure the resistance - spark plugs with swirl chambers typically had a resistance of around 0.8 ohms when cold.

m;

Here's the translation:

"I'm wondering, I have no idea how old my diesel filter is. Could it be that it needs to be drained or replaced? Could starting problems occur due to an old filter?"

The D-filter needs to be replaced every 30,000 km.

Wenn da viel Wasser drin ist (steht ja unten) friert das nachts natuerlich ein ... Consequences unknown.

If the filter is clogged, it should still start, but it shouldn't run for long, because it will then be "suffocated" by the fuel.

m;

Hi,

I don't know if there are any differences between AFN and 1Z engines, but my AFN has always started and run smoothly so far (even in temperatures from -20 to -30°C). The only exception was last week, when the coolant temperature sensor was defective, and the engine control unit (ECU) always thought the engine was warm.

Greetings.
dieter
T3 Syncro 16 AFN.

Hi,

In my 1Z Golf, the experience was similar to what Warlord and x world one described during the winter.
Trotz Vorglühen lief er erst unrund und ein wenig blau rauchend, was sich in der 1. But it took a minute.

In my current AAT (presumably referring to an Advanced Apprenticeship), things are completely different:
It glows continuously, and once you start the engine, it's immediately active. However, Audi has also implemented a significant idle speed increase for cold temperatures, and for the starting moment, a seemingly large fuel injection volume (which I can't confirm with a VAG-Com).
It then runs for quite a while at approximately 1250 RPM, without any vibrations (5-cylinder), but it's incredibly loud (even the slightest touch of the accelerator wakes up my neighbors).

Hi,

This morning, the temperature was -10 degrees Celsius. The car had been outside all night (-12 degrees Celsius), and the oil had a temperature of -10.1 degrees Celsius.

I once observed the on-board voltage when starting the engine.

During the pre-glow phase, the voltage dropped to 11.3 volts, which puts a significant strain on the cold battery. Then, during starting, the voltage momentarily collapsed to 8.5 volts. Immediately afterward, it rose to 14.7 volts, quickly decreasing towards 14.4 volts.

The engine started on one of the initial compression strokes and then immediately settled down to its normal idle speed.

The numbers above are just for demonstration purposes to show how much stress a battery experiences during a start. So, if there are problems, this could potentially be a cause.

Best regards,

Jan.

no problems at all.
Door open.
install, insert, place, put in
Insert key.
Flip without waiting.
running

I only need to preheat the engine when the temperature drops to around -7°C.

It was like that with the first TDI 90hp, the first series.
at the 110 meter mark.
And now, let's talk about the 130 PD.

'I can do it this way too, but it still struggles a little and runs roughly at the beginning. It might be due to my injectors or the pump settings (the timing belt needs to be replaced in 10,000 km). Otherwise, no problems, but it only happens when it's been standing for a longer time (overnight).'

Best regards, WarLord.

Okay, just for the night. But I'll still leave the preheating light on, so don't put anything in or mess with the settings.

I wouldn't do that myself (I even wait until the warm-up process is completely finished), but it would technically be possible (although it might not start smoothly).

Best regards, WarLord.

Hello.

Currently, I have a 14V trickle charge connected to the cigarette lighter overnight. Although my battery is still relatively new, at just under 1.5 years old, it makes a huge difference when starting. The starter motor turns over like it's summer, and the engine starts with the first compression.

Even tonight, the temperature outside was -11 degrees Celsius, and in the garage it was -8 degrees Celsius!

Try it out; it almost costs nothing.

Just a small question: What kind of oil are you using?
I once learned how thick oil can be: Changing the oil at minus x degrees Celsius, the old oil came out of the warm engine without any problems, but the new oil wouldn't even come out of the canister (Castrol GTX...). I then got a thinner oil (for the winter, I now have 5W-40, fully synthetic, it's a cheap version, but at least it has the necessary approvals...).
Since then, the engine (1Z / after the preheating) starts without any problems (provided the crankshaft pulley is securely fastened ).
The difference is also clearly noticeable due to the higher speed of the starter motor.
Hi, Marcus.
P.S.: Checking/replacing spark plugs shouldn't be a problem with a 1Z engine, right? Just disconnect the connector, attach a test lamp, and if it doesn't light up, the spark plug is definitely bad. And 25 Nm is tight enough – I've even overtightened one before...

Okay, but when should I do it? When I'm not working, I'm usually sleeping, and I don't feel like doing it on the weekend with these arctic temperatures. The oil is 5W40 semi-synthetic (which will be replaced with 0W40 full synthetic at the next oil change).

Best regards, WarLord.

@Warlord

If you're looking for it, there's also a 5W40 full synthetic option available.

Valvoline is making it - it's now the only 5W40 full synthetic oil I've been able to find.

I didn't want to "shock" my 1Z by using 0W oil, especially after the dealership that sold me the car put some kind of 10W 40 fully mineral "junk" in it .

m;