Brake Pedal Stuck: Causes and Solutions

Hello there.

I have the following problem:

If I'm stopped with the engine running and then suddenly press the brake pedal fully, the pedal will depress at least 3/4 of the way (sometimes even all the way to the floor). If I then release the brake pedal and press it again, the pedal pressure will only be about 1/3 of the way down.

The workshop says that it's normal, but I don't believe it.

my car:
Skoda Superb V6 TDI with the older 155 hp engine (May 2003).
It has 53,000 km on the odometer.
Brake discs and pads should be replaced at 24,000 kilometers.
The third sentence mentions a surcharge of 40,000.

The brake pads are always worn down on the inside, while the outside still looks almost new. The salesperson claims this is normal for this type of brake and is due to my 'sporty riding style' - haha.

If you keep pedaling, will it eventually start working again?

Best regards, WarLord.

When you first press the pedal, it stays in that position.
If I release the brake and then press it again, the pedal then slowly continues to depress until it reaches the floor.

Hi,
Are the frame and the floats easily movable in their guides? After winter, the floats, at least, can sometimes become stuck. A difference in wear between the inside and outside is normal, but it shouldn't be that extreme.

They are easily movable - the linings have already been replaced twice - and each time, the ease of movement was checked .

moin moin

I have the following problem:

If I'm stopped with the engine running and then suddenly press the brake pedal fully, the pedal will depress at least 3/4 of the way (sometimes even all the way to the floor). If I then release the brake pedal and press it again, the pedal pressure will only be about 1/3 of the way down.

The workshop says that it's normal, but I don't believe it.

my car:
Skoda Superb V6 TDI with the older 155 hp engine (May 2003).
It has 53,000 km on the odometer.
Brake discs and pads should be replaced at 24,000 kilometers.
The third sentence mentions a surcharge of 40,000.

The pads are always only worn on the inside, while the outside of the pads still look almost new - the friendly employee claims that this is normal with disc brakes and is due to my 'sporty riding style' - hahaha.


Don't be fooled by those 'swim saddles' (also known as 'fist saddles')! They're complete nonsense. The force is the same on both sides, and the pads usually wear down at the same rate.
If the rollers only engage on the inner side, the saddle will get stuck in the guide bushings.
or the inner lining is rubbing because the brakes are not venting properly.
That has nothing to do with the driving style.
And a pedal that can be pressed all the way down is also fantastic.

Can someone tell me what's broken?

I have to go to the workshop tomorrow to have new stabilizer links installed and two new tires mounted on the rims of my Octavia.

'I'd like to be more assertive about this tomorrow. They've already sent me away once, saying it's normal because the brake pedal on the other V6 they have also goes down that far, but it doesn't seem normal to me.'

best regards, emil

Hi,

Are the seals in the master cylinder faulty? Try bleeding the entire system.

The problem has been resolved.

I was driving backwards at approximately 20 km/h. I had to brake because I couldn't see anything and wasn't sure if there was anything in the way.

The sudden braking produced a very loud, unsettling screeching noise from the rear brakes, making me think I was driving without brake pads.

Since then (it's been 10 days now), my car's brakes have been working perfectly normally again. The brake pedal only needs to be pressed about 1/3 of the way down.

It would be great if someone could provide a plausible explanation for this.

Okay, and now something else: I want to improve my braking system.

What are the benefits of stainless steel flexible pipes?

and for my car, there are only CTF brake discs available with ABE approval (from Italy).
Does anyone have experience with this? Can it be recommended?

Cost per slice: €199. The original slices (312x25) cost €89 - which makes you think twice...

best regards, emil

Hello everyone,

I'm having a similar problem with the brakes.

With the engine running, the pedal slowly depresses under strong braking pressure.
If the engine isn't running, you can step on it as hard as you can, and it won't give way.

I believe we can rule out air in the system, as the brake fluid was changed two years ago, and the problem only recently started.

No leaks visible, brake fluid level is OK, braking performance is OK.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Regards, Jürgen.
A4 B5 AJM, manufactured in 2000.

If the brake fluid isn't leaking into the environment, it might be flowing from the master cylinder into the reservoir. Without engine assistance, there's probably simply not enough pressure to move it.

Hi,

Check this out:
http://www.qmi.de/bremsen.html
Air can accumulate in the brake lines due to 'air pockets' forming during use. However, the symptoms you described are normal. The braking force is assisted by the vacuum created in the system, which is not present when the engine is off. It is also normal for the brake pedal to feel softer when the engine is running and under heavy pressure.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Grß Ecki'

I believe we can rule out air in the system, as the brake fluid was changed two years ago, and the problem only recently started.


I'm getting a really bad headache right now... *Valerian tea sip* [img] http://www.cheesebuerger.de/smilies/nahrung/2.gif [/img]

Hello everyone,

Thank you for the tips.

I found the link very interesting. It confirms my opinion that one should not trust car manufacturers and their subcontractors (authorized repair shops).

Conclusion:
Buy high-quality brand-name brake fluid (and hope that it's actually better) and halve the recommended replacement intervals.

@Julian:
I don't understand the part about the headaches.

Best regards, Jürgen.

@Julian:
I don't understand the part about the headaches.


I already have.

Two years have passed since the brake fluid was changed, and you assume that there shouldn't be any air in the system as a result.
Two years is a long time; a lot can happen.

CU Gremlin.

Juergen wrote:

...I don't understand the thing about the headaches.

RTFM!

According to the service instructions printed in your owner's manual, the brake fluid must be replaced every 24 months. My car is 24 months old.
In my opinion, it should be 2 years.
By the way, the description in the link even suggests even shorter intervals.