Fuel Filter Replacement: High-Level Method

Hi!

For the first time, I replaced the fuel filter using a new method that eliminates the cumbersome process of drawing fuel through the supply line and into the new filter.
By the way, I upgraded to a cheap screw-on filter head. It's so inexpensive that it pays for itself after just the first replacement (filter head, which remains in the vehicle permanently: ~10€, filter cartridge 5€ at www.monopoel.de, for comparison: standard filter in accessory shops 27€).

I call it a 'high-level' method because the fuel level in the tank is raised to a higher level than the fuel filter head through two measures, ensuring that no air can enter the fuel system, and only fuel can flow out.

1.) Fill the tank completely by pressing the vent button, which will also fill the fuel inlet pipe until gasoline starts to spill out of the fuel filler neck.

2.) Do not drive far. Park the vehicle with the rear facing uphill on a slope. Now, all points of the fuel system are lower than the fuel level in the tank.

3.) Fill the new filter with fuel (or alternatively, hot oil). This is much easier with screw-on filters, which is another advantage over standard filters. The screw-on filters look similar to oil filters at the top, and I poured hot oil from a cooking pot into them.

4.) Now, quickly replace the filter. While the filter is removed, fuel will leak from the inlet. (But not a dramatic amount.) Therefore, place plenty of paper towels underneath.

5.) Probelauf. Kontrolle auf Blasen in der transparenten ESP-Zuleitung. Test drive.

I also did something silly: I placed the old filter, which was full of engine oil, between the intake manifold and the timing belt cover. In the process, some oil dripped out and ran down the timing belt cover *sweat*.
Fortunately, the cover reliably protected the ZR; it seems to be optimized for liquids dripping from above and overlaps the edge of the engine carrier like a roof tile.

But you shouldn't rely on it; it's really not fun with a ZR. I should have put the old filter upside down in the fuel funnel right away, not later.

The monopoel filter head is fully compatible with the standard filter head in terms of connections (including the mounting for the 'Knackfrosch' accessory). If you like, I can take a picture of it.

'If you have more space, you can use a truck filter cartridge, which has at least double the filter area. However, in my case, I would have to extend the hoses, and the engine manifold would then touch the filter head.'

Hello!

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

2.) Do not drive far. Park the vehicle with the rear facing uphill on a slope. Now, all points of the fuel system are lower than the fuel level in the tank.

Where is your tank or filter located?

To do that, I would need to raise the rear axle to the level of the middle of the hood. My workshop isn't that steep...

BYE
TDI mechanics.

@SeatArosa:

Why don't you install a check valve before the DFI (or PFI)? Alternatively, you could use a ball valve, but that's more expensive. Then you can skip points 1 and 2 of your filter change procedure. You can also find them at monopoel.

If you properly fill the new filter, then there's no problem, because there will be fuel available before the engine shuts off.

Yes, the Monopel filters are a great, inexpensive solution. However, I would advise against using the truck filter – the key issue is the mesh size. It's only a good option for older Benzes with inline fuel pumps.

Best regards,

Perhaps I'm just not seeing it, but I only find the filter head for 14.99. However, it would be great if it fits... Are there any concerns about the quality of these parts?
For the price, it would definitely be worth it. Especially since you can install it in almost any TDI engine.
What about the 2.5 TDI engines? I mean, those were bigger, so will they still be properly lubricated?

The one for 14.99 is probably the right one. It's definitely worth installing. Personally, I use the good WK842/2 Mann filters and not the ones from the shop. The mesh size should be slightly larger than the 'brand name' filters. In my opinion, they're cheap for a reason. But even with a Mann filter, the conversion isn't more expensive than an original VP TDI DiFi . It's always worked that way with the older WK diesels, so why should it be different with the TDI's ?

Does anyone know if this also works with the 2.5 TDI engine?

What kind of filter does the "Mann" brand use? Is it a standard diesel filter that's also used in other cars?

Hi!

To do that, I would need to raise the rear axle to the level of the middle of the hood. My workshop isn't that steep...

To finally clarify any misunderstandings, here is a schematic diagram for the high-level method:

http://img318.

/img318/8481/hochniveau9vj.gif

The image is probably self-explanatory. However, the vehicle's tilt is even exaggerated in this depiction.

Regarding the filter head: Sorry, I bought the head + cartridge two years ago and only remembered a price of €14.99, thinking it was the sum of the filter cartridge (€4.99) and the head, but it was actually just the price of the head itself. (I hope this sentence doesn't sound too complicated).

What kind of filter does the 'Mann' brand use? Is it a standard diesel filter that is also installed in other cars?

Go to a trusted parts dealer and ask for a fuel filter for a Golf I diesel. However, a cabin filter costs approximately €15 at retail.

Yes, the Monopoel filters are a great, inexpensive solution, but I would advise against using the truck filter - the keyword here is 'mesh size'.

According to monopoel, it should filter just as well. But you can always add an additional filter to it.

Personally, I prefer the good WK842/2 man filters and not the ones from the shop. The mesh size should be slightly larger than that of the 'brand' filters.

Okay, so I used a cheap filter for 2 years. Before that, I used the standard filters, which were faster and more responsive. It might be due to the mesh size, or maybe I had more dirt in the fuel back then because I was still occasionally using diesel (since April, I've only used RME and heating oil).

Anyway, there were no problems related to the filter. Now I have an aftermarket filter from a parts supplier because I didn't want to wait for the long delivery time, and the truck filter would require too much modification, such as extending all four hose ends.