Wobbly Steering Wheel When Braking? Causes & Fixes

Hello!

Well, I've been having this problem for the past 8 months. I noticed it back then too, when I had to brake from, say, 160 km/h down to 100 km/h. In April, I got new brake discs and pads, but the problem persists.

Does anyone have any idea what can be done about it, or where the problem actually lies?

As I said, the new tires now have 10,000 miles on them...

EDIT: I'm actually considering installing the brake system from a Golf R32 in the front.

I would check the front axle for worn wheel bearings or damaged ball joints.

When the brake applies force to the wheels, that force is transferred to the steering wheel through the play in the system.

Hi,

A small piece of dirt or debris between the disc and hub, or between the rim and disc, can have devastating consequences (e.g., an old piece of rust). verschandeln the contact surfaces thoroughly with a wire brush (ideally a flexible grinder with a wire wheel attachment). I had this problem before, and this solved it for me.

Thanks for the suggestions; I'll take it to the dealership, as my warranty just expired... but this problem has been going on for a while.

By the way, when I first noticed this, I still had winter tires on. It's still happening with my Santa Monica tires... let's see what it is.

Oh yes: when it was first checked in January, the car had 33,000 km on the odometer, and now it has 66,000 km.

Okay, I just bought a brand new Audi S3 brake system for the front axle, so I'll be careful to keep it verschandeln and free of dirt between the rotors during installation. My workshop will check if anything is worn out.

The brake is installed now.

Conclusion after 1000 km of driving: the braking performance is incomparable. Excellent; I wouldn't say it's a Porsche-level brake, but it's definitely a brake that lives up to the car's performance.


'...I'm also no longer experiencing any vibrations in the steering wheel, but I think that was probably due to the preemptive installation of the new brake discs, as I can't imagine that the discs themselves would have a 'flat spot'.'

I'm experiencing the same problem with my Ibiza 6L PD 96kW.

I bought the car new, and after about 8,000 km (winter driving), I experienced strong vibrations when turning. On snow and ice, the car wouldn't stop because the ABS system was constantly activating even with very light braking.

Following the recommendation of my mechanic (diagnosis: warped brake discs), I purchased hardened, slotted brake discs from Ferodo. Unfortunately, the problem has reappeared after just under 32,000 kilometers.

My mechanic claims that it's due to my driving style and that the windshields can't withstand it. However, I think that's nonsense because while my driving is brisk, it's always anticipatory. I rarely drive on the highway at all.

Recently, I noticed that when I stop on a slight incline and then release the brakes, the car only rolls backward slowly, or not at all, depending on the steepness of the incline.

Could it be that the brakes aren't releasing properly and are therefore constantly rubbing?

How else could I verify this?

I had my brakes checked at a Volkswagen dealership around the corner about four weeks ago.
There, the right front brake had a significant downward deflection of up to 1 millimeter.
Last week, I went to my authorized service center to report the issue. We took the car to two inspection stations affiliated with DEKRA, and everything was fine.
What could have caused all of this?

The front brakes provide approximately 3.3 kN of force, while the rear brakes provide almost 2.4 kN.
Does anyone know if this is too much for my vehicle?

Jack up the car, secure it properly, and try to turn a wheel by hand. It shouldn't require significant force.

thekk wrote:

... I obtained hardened, perforated discs from Ferodo. ....

I can tell you a few things about that Italian junk car.
I installed a set of Ferodo pads on my racing car, and after 400 km, they were completely worn out.
The reason is that the discs are so hard that they only provide usable friction values at extremely high temperatures. However, these discs then achieve this friction value very abruptly. If you're not careful and reduce the pressure on the brake pedal, you will damage the discs. Due to the steel hardness, the discs cannot expand properly and warp very quickly. This results in extremely unpleasant vibrations.
When used with Ferodo racing brake pads, heat dissipation is improved, and this issue should no longer occur. However, these pads have an extremely high operating temperature of over 850°C, making them completely unsuitable for road use.
These brake discs are completely unsuitable for a road car.
In competitive use, they are good for only one (or possibly two) events, after which they should be retired.

Hmm, that wasn't mentioned in the description though...
Unfortunately, there were no other perforated or slotted windshields available for my car at that time, so I had no choice.
However, I also have Ferodo brake pads...
I guess I'll have to look for something else then.
Perhaps another tip? ATE?

Quote:

Vieleicht noch einen Tipp? ATE?

At least it's better than Ferodo.

By the way, I recently had a very good experience with a combination of Ferodo ID346 brake pads (which are roughly equivalent to the DS2500 today) and ATE brake discs. It was cheap and effective.

If you want something decent (but unfortunately very expensive), then take a look at what the companies on the islands offer.
Sure, I understand. Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English.
http://www.mintex.co.uk/

My experience with ATE:

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