Turbocharger not building boost! Help!

hi all,

Yesterday, during my road trip, I noticed that the sound of my turbocharger's intake or exhaust was getting louder. Eventually, a decrease in power occurred.

I initially thought that maybe the hose connecting the air filter to the turbo was leaking, which is why I might be hearing more intake noise. I'm not sure if inhaling warm air would also cause such a significant reduction in performance.

'Definitely, it started making more noise, and the boost pressure isn't exceeding 0.7 bar anymore!'

Now I'm wondering what all might be at stake here!

1. Turbo control linkage.
2. Small valve in the vacuum hose to the turbo.
3. Check the charge air hose for holes or leaks.

Does anyone else have any other suggestions for things I could check?

How far does the control rod on a loader typically move?
I've checked it, and it also moves when idling. So I don't think it's stuck. However, it could be that the vacuum hose leading to the turbo (the one that operates the linkage) is clogged with dirt or something. There's also a small valve in there that maintains pressure for longer when you shift gears so it doesn't rattle as much. I'm going to blow that out now!

Please help me.

How loud is it when a hose has a leak? Because that loud sucking or puffing sound definitely comes from the direction of the turbocharger and air filter, so it must be that one hose that leads to the intake manifold.

'Thank you.'

chris

Hi.

The symptom combination of "new" whistling noise during active turbocharging, combined with a tendency to produce soot, clearly indicates a "leak between the turbocharger and the intake valves."

I'm not sure if you can hear a malfunctioning EGR valve as clearly (see the EGR technical article), but I suspect not, because the noise is likely trapped within the exhaust system.

So, it seems the only possible leak is in the area of the intake manifold ("pressure pipes"), air intake manifold, and intercooler. The leak will practically always expel oil that originates from the crankcase ventilation system (PCV).
Unfortunately, the oil leak that eventually drips down from there isn't always immediately visible, especially if the leak is located in areas that are not easily seen.
So, you might use mirrors to see around corners, or manually feel for oil leaks, and if necessary, disassemble parts to access the area.

Good luck with your search, and please let us know the results when you have them.

Okay, I found the problem! The pressure hose from the turbo outlet to the first pipe leading towards the coolant reservoir has a 3 cm tear in it.

Okay, I'm going to exchange it now!

That raises new questions for me.
The hose looks like an 'S', although a simple 'L' shaped hose would also do the job! You have to imagine it this way: the turbo outlet goes downwards in my case, and the pipe where the hose needs to connect points backwards, towards the rear of the vehicle. So, normally, you'd need an 'L' shaped hose connection. However, at VW, they installed a hose that first goes down, then forward, then backward, and finally back forward again before connecting to the pipe.
Is that not normal, or...?

I told my uncle, who is a car mechanic, that I was going to replace the hose with a Samco 'L' hose. He just said, 'No, definitely not. That will change the flow rate and the cooling,' and then nothing will work properly anymore!

I'm asking you all out there! Is the man really right? The VW hose is approximately 15 cm longer than the 'L' hose from Samco, and it's made of rubber. If I were to replace it with the Samco hose, which is a proper pressure hose, would my car start spinning out of control? And does that have such a significant impact on the flow rate and everything else?

I can't imagine that being the case, and I doubt that a 0.5°C temperature difference would significantly affect performance, right?

The other reason I want the Samco hose is that the VW hose costs 100 euros, while the Samco one costs only 25 euros!

So, who of you is currently lurking around here, ULF, etc.? I'm happy to be proven wrong!

'Thank you.'

chris

Okay, I now have the inner diameter measurements of the hose.

The problem is that the hose has a diameter of 48mm on one side and 35mm on the other.

Does anyone know of any other manufacturers besides Samco that produce pressure hoses for the automotive sector?

Does anyone have addresses or other information they can share here?

Who is the German distributor of Samco hoses here in Germany?

Thank you in advance.

Mtw13ve wrote:

I told my uncle, who is a car mechanic, that I was going to replace the hose with a Samco "L" hose. He just said, "No, definitely not. That will change the flow rate and the cooling," and then nothing will work properly! ich frage euch da drausen! hat der mann wirklich recht? der schlauch von vw ist in der länge ca 15 cm länger als der "L" schlauch von samco und aus gummi... wenn ich den jetzt durch den samco ersetzen würde der ja wirklich ein richtiger druckschlauch ist, würde dann mein auto rumspinnen und hat das wirklich so viel auswirkung auf die ströhmungsgeschwindigkeit und den ganzen käs?

Generally speaking, the faster the air flows, the narrower the pipe is. Therefore, the diameter of the pipe does influence the flow rate – at least in areas where you would change it.

I can hardly explain what the serpentine shape is supposed to be for... I initially thought it might be related to tuned lengths for a resonance charging effect, despite the presence of a charger, but considering the overall length of the intake passages, a 15 cm difference probably wouldn't make much of a noticeable difference.

Or have I just tied myself up in knots with my thoughts?

Sandtler distributes Samco hoses in Germany; I ordered some from them, so we'll see how they are. By the way, Samco also offers reducer hoses.

http://www.sandtler.de

You can find Samco's website at the following address:

http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/town/plaza/ggh54/samco/

Samco doesn't sell directly, but on the website you can also find links to sellers in Germany.

Hi,

Perhaps the 'S' is simply there to compensate for motor movements within the bearings.
Otherwise, you can freely install anything there as long as the diameter fits.
Nur mal so ein Gedanke, meinst Du den Motor interessiert die Strömungsgeschwindigkeit im Rohrstück x und ob da'n S ist oder nicht ? Tsss...

Best regards, Rainer.

'See? I said that too! LOL.'


thank you.
chris