1Z Measurement Block 13: What Does It Show?

Hello everyone,

After my car has been at VW for two weeks and they haven't made any progress, I decided to investigate the problem myself. My 1Z TDI won't start, either when the engine is cold or warm; it has starting problems (it cranks for about 5 seconds).

In measurement block 13, it displays mg/R values for each cylinder.
The values for cylinders 1-3 are within the expected range of -2 to +2, but cylinder 4 shows NO reading at all!

What does this channel indicate, and what does it mean if it shows nothing?
Could it be the injector? Could that be causing my starting problem?

Is the VAG-Com software conditionally available? I have a purchased full version!

Thank you in advance!!

Hello,

A cylinder must be the reference for the others .

Best regards, Rainer.

So, completely normal?
That would be too easy.

I think I have to sell it again...

Yes, I would rather check the air pressure in the fuel injection pump first... See Ulf's technical article for details.

Best regards, Rainer.

No, there's nothing in it. Apparently, VW already checked it.
How can I check myself? At least there are no bubbles in the product.

25 bar compression.
KW-wheel in good condition.
No air in the diesel system.
Fuel vent: OK.
Initial progress is satisfactory.
The starter is already new.
Battery is new.
Temperature reading of 70°C in the measurement block (it doesn't go any higher), which is normal when it's cold; for example, today it was 4°C, so I think it's okay.
Valve timing is OK.
Needle injector in good working order.
109 relay, OK (I don't know what it's for).
LMM value is within normal limits.

He doesn't respond to the login '12233' and then channel 3 (I think), which corresponds to higher injection pressures. It starts just as poorly, whether cold or warm, when the value is at 3.5 or 7. The maximum possible value is 7.

The engine also lacks a bit of power in the higher RPM range. So, it starts to feel sluggish around 3,500 RPM. The top speed is roughly 180 km/h (approximately 112 mph) according to the speedometer.

Two Volkswagen workshops couldn't figure out what was wrong with my car. Now I'm at the third Volkswagen workshop.
Slowly but surely, I'm starting to lose interest...

Okay, and when I check the preheating system via VAG-Com, it always says that the engine isn't warm enough, even though it has been running for two hours and it shows a temperature of 90°...

It's too cold. The temperature inside the ESP (Electrostatic Precipitator) is crucial for determining when to start the process.
However, it is possible to force an ad to display; there is a checkbox for this purpose.

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay. Then that works too.

Okay, so I've now read through many, many reports (my head and eyes are aching), and frankly, I'm just getting nowhere.

I'm going to go to Volkswagen tomorrow and explain that I want to take my car back, remove the cover, and verschandeln everything inside.
Hopefully, the thing will still work afterwards .

I only want to verschandeln the 'adjustment range'. It's located directly under the cover at the top of the pump, right? I can't adjust anything on the pump there, can I?

Have you checked the start date for the vaccinations yet?

According to the TDI checker, or whatever it's called, it fits.

According to the Bosch service, it's impossible for the pump to be the problem because if it were dirty, it wouldn't run at all.

He also has some very strange performance issues. Sometimes it runs well, but then it stutters again at certain RPM ranges... But it doesn't jerk or anything like that.

I already bought the car like this. I don't know how it's supposed to normally work.

Hello,
I had the exact same problem until the stupid crankshaft bolt completely failed.

And so, the piston and valves went on a date.

This meant reconditioning the cylinder head and crankshaft.

'Check if the crankshaft pulley bolt can be turned by hand (the bolt is located on the belt side, in the center of the large pulley; it's a hexagonal bolt and should turn with a standard wrench). However, normally this bolt should be tight enough that it won't budge.'

Oops, I just read that the rear wheel is okay.

No, the screw was replaced, the valve timing is correct, and we even removed the crankshaft pulley because we suspected that the mounting point might be damaged, which could cause the disc to shift during driving. But everything is fine now...

Today I noticed that air is coming out of the fuel filter when I start the engine. Not a lot, but some air is escaping! Is this normal? However, the air only starts coming out after the engine has already started running.

Hello,

I was briefly reading along, and I'm wondering if the fuel injectors were checked, including the injection pressure and spray pattern? If you checked the compression, you probably removed them, and hopefully installed new heat shields at the same time. If not, remove those parts and have them tested by a VW dealer or Bosch service center, and be sure to get new heat shields – they should always be replaced together. Poor atomization or a bad spray pattern can be a cause of poor starting behavior. Usually, you'll also see enough white smoke after the engine starts.

Best regards,
Markus.

Hmm, I'm not sure. There is some white smoke coming from it, but the temperatures seem normal, right? It only happens when it's cold. When it's warm, there's no smoke.

Today, for the first time, it happened that when I was accelerating hard from 1,500 RPM in third gear, and reaching around 3,500 RPM, it started misfiring quite badly. It was like a spark plug misfire in a gasoline engine!

Furthermore, it seems to lack power, especially in the higher RPM range.

macs wrote:

Have the injectors been checked, for example, regarding injection pressure and spray pattern?

When you checked the compression, you probably removed them, and hopefully installed new heat shields at the same time.
The compression is measured through the spark plug holes.

Mike-T wrote:

Today, for the first time, it happened that when I was accelerating hard from 1,500 RPM in 3rd gear, at around 3,500 RPM, it started to misbehave quite badly.

It's like a kind of ignition failure, similar to what you get with a gasoline engine!!}
That sounds suspiciously like a needle injector.

It may depend on the system you use for the compression pressure test.
I'm going to remove the nozzles and press them in again immediately, and I'll put new seals in as well.
Kill two birds with one stone .

Regardless, the sputtering sound is unlikely to be coming from the nozzles.

If the needle penetration is good, then there probably isn't much left to do .