Clutch Slippage After Brake Pad Replacement

I have a partial issue with our Audi A4 Passat, manufactured in 1999 (2000 model).
Comfortline, 5-speed.
After another brake pad replacement, the clutch started slipping.

Mileage: approximately 147,000 km, mostly highway driving.

Background:
During the journey, brake pads were installed using parts from the ATU chain (likely with a different friction coefficient).
After that, the brakes had to be repaired again under the warranty.

Upon my repeated request, genuine VW brake pads and rotors were installed.
I assume that the friction coefficient was not correct for ATU parts.
Now, the braking performance is back to normal with the original brake pads from VW.

The questionable thing about it is:
'Since the second gear change (not after the first time!), the clutch occasionally slips in 5th gear at approximately 2000-2500-2800 RPM, and this usually only happens when the engine is warm.'
Sometimes even in 4th gear .

When starting in 3rd gear with the handbrake engaged, the car is pulled forward, which has caused significant damage to the clutch.
If I don't accelerate, the brakes engage and the car stalls.

The car has OBD tuning, supposedly with around 360 Nm of torque, but I haven't experienced any problems for at least 30,000-40,000 kilometers.

No slipping issues in the lower hallway (even after the modifications).



Questions about the species:
A)
Do you think it's related to the ventilation?
(Is the clutch also connected to the hydraulics - or not?)
What should I tell the workshop then (they're probably slightly acidic, I assume...)

B)
Or could it be that the clutch is worn out? That would be quite early.


C)
Here's a post about reinforced clutch components.
But what about the AJM?
Did anyone gather any information on that?
The search function isn't turning up anything relevant.
auser https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=286&highlight=kupplung+ajm.
& https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=4437&highlight=kupplung+ajm
@Julian once wrote that the AJM clutch only handles 350 Nm, and it might be year-dependent, but I haven't had any problems so far .

Today is the first time I'm using my detachable clutch, hopefully I won't have any problems.

Question for the community: Is a reinforced coupling always installed from the factory when a detachable trailer hitch is included? Probably not, right?

Would you replace the dual-mass flywheel when replacing a reinforced clutch disc?
I was thinking about a Sachs clutch, but unfortunately, the AJM model is not listed.
It would be great if someone could shed some light on the matter.

Goodbye.

Regards
Thorsten.

I think it's a coincidence and has nothing to do with the brake replacement. Unless the master cylinder is leaking and brake fluid is getting onto the clutch.

I've seen this happen several times with chip-tuned turbocharged engines (gasoline engines), where the clutches have been damaged. The last one was a Golf IV GTI 1.8T.

Stronger clutch installed, problem solved.

Unfortunately, I don't know which stronger clutch can be installed in your vehicle.

Hello,

So, the clutch and brake are both connected to the same reservoir.

It is unlikely that anything will go wrong during a brake pad replacement, including bleeding the brakes.
But generally, I wouldn't trust anything from ATU. Especially when it comes to brake pads and rotors.
I generally advise against buying spare parts from unofficial sources, because in the end, it often turns out to be more expensive than buying original parts or parts from the original supplier.

The only thing I can imagine is that they either didn't bleed the clutch properly and were too incompetent to do it right, or that the necessary equipment wasn't available, and instead of pumping the brakes, they used the clutch (which is faster) for the entire process.

Otherwise, I would just be guessing. But with 147,000 km and only highway driving, the clutch shouldn't be broken.

Greetings.

"...but if there's air in the clutch hydraulic system, it won't disengage properly. The problem here, however, is that it's slipping..."

Hello,

The only thing I can imagine is that they either didn't bleed the clutch properly and were too incompetent to do it right, or that the necessary equipment wasn't available, and instead of pumping the brakes, they used the clutch (which is faster) for the entire process.

Otherwise, I would just be guessing. But with 147,000 km and only highway driving, the clutch shouldn't be broken.

Greetings

How long should a clutch last when driving long distances? Does anyone have any experience with this?

After the weekend spent pulling a trailer, I no longer experience any clutch slippage.
But I don't trust the current peace .

Perhaps the sanding test yielded some results, even with the handbrake fully engaged.
The clutch smelled really bad, and I always feel bad when I have to do something like that... but maybe something was stuck to the clutch.

Could they somehow get brake fluid onto the clutch?
Isn't that actually impossible?
I don't actually think the poetry is flawed; so far, I haven't noticed anything wrong with it.

It's definitely running normally right now.

So long .
Thorsten.

Hello,

'If there's air in the clutch system, it won't disengage properly, that's correct. I hadn't thought of that.'
The air can also expand and contract. This could cause the coupling to slip.


Based on my experience, I would say that this car should definitely be able to last for at least 200,000 km, even with highway driving.

Mine now has 240,000 km on it, so it's the original clutch, and I haven't had any problems.
Passat, model year 1993, with a 1Z engine.

A friend of mine had an Audi 80 station wagon with the 1Z engine. It was used as a company car (owned by his own company) and was sold with 380,000 kilometers on the odometer and with the original clutch still in place.

Greetings.