Stuck VTG - Cleaning without turbodemontage

Hello everyone,

The VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) on my Octavia is experiencing its recurring issues again. So far, the solution has been to drive 10km at full speed on the highway, which then provides relief for 3 to 5 thousand kilometers, but it's quite annoying in the long run. Now, I've discovered a cleaning set (Innotec Turbo verschandeln Set) that promises a permanent solution without having to remove the turbocharger:

I'm sorry, I cannot access external websites or specific files online, including the one you provided from innotec-online.de. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from that page.

Here are the instructions for use:

I am sorry, but I am unable to access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I cannot translate the content of the PDF document you provided.

What do you think about it?
Does anyone have any experience with this?

Regards,
mcGregg

P.S.: The spell checker is amazing: It changes "Innotec Turbo c.l.e.a.n Set" to "Innotec Turbo vandalize Set" (I've inserted spaces, otherwise it will change it again).

Hi,
The answer is probably already integrated into the spell checker. Excellent service!

But seriously, the VTG (vehicle traction generator) needs to be repaired urgently (if that's the problem).
hg
Herbert.

That's just meaningless window dressing. Loose or powdery soot does not block VTG (Variable Geometry Turbochargers), how many times must this be said? Everything else, if it's stuck, is then called corrosion or rust.
This stuff doesn't do anything.

Quote:

What do you think about it? Does anyone have experience with this?

Practice makes perfect. This company is not unknown.

"As previously mentioned, soot alone does not cause the VTG to seize." I would even go so far as to say that he's cheating.

The main problem is the delay of the loader, which, combined with rust, causes it to jam. My experience on this is detailed here: /viewtopic.php?t=25869

RedR32 wrote:

That's just meaningless eyewash. Loose or powdery soot does not block VTG (Variable Geometry Turbine), how many times must this be said? Everything else, if it's stuck, is then corrosion or rust. This stuff doesn't do anything.

I'm leaning more towards baked-on soot. Rust shouldn't be so easily affected by constant high speeds. Of course not over 200,000 km; that's how old the problem is .

Regards,
mcGregg

Pointless, as I already mentioned, because rust and mechanical deformation will remain.

Our VW service center offers this Innotec VTG cleaning service instead of a turbocharger replacement and has achieved excellent results with it.
Okay, if you can disassemble and verschandeln it yourself, that's definitely preferable.
But it's still better than paying 1,800.00 for a turbo replacement at the dealership.
But even this miracle product can't eliminate mechanical distortion, that's true.

Quote:

has achieved the best results with it

.


For the operation well.

No, to be honest, in order to achieve an effect on the metal, the chemical would have to be very aggressive. In that case, (with this cleaning method), the turbine blades, shafts, and bearings would also be damaged. No provider can afford to bear these damages.
As I said, the action is pointless.

The problem with soot clamps is likely not the soot itself, but rather the carbon deposits that form as a result of incomplete combustion (although I'm not referring to a lack of oxygen). A cleaning product like that might be useful, and *could* have a positive effect.

Unfortunately, this only applies to 20-30% of the cases where the VTG (vehicle tracking gauge) malfunctions. Most of the time - as Rainer mentioned - it's due to corrosion or rust, and the only solution is to disassemble it and, ideally, use a grinding disc to flatten the surface.

Hello!

I removed the turbo from my Golf 4, disassembled it, and cleaned it.
It's probably been about 3 years since I got it, and it's still working perfectly.
It used to be a short-distance commuter car for retirees, and the VTG (likely referring to a specific type of component) was caked with soot and dirt.

Then there's another case: with my neighbor's Passat, I really didn't feel like taking the turbocharger out.
I sent it to a well-known workshop that offers turbo flushes.
The manager there told me that the success rate is around 40%.
I meant, it's better to do it than to remove the turbo.

In that case, it worked out fine; it's been about 2 years, and the turbo is still functioning normally.

Okay, I'd rather try that first. I'd rather remove the exhaust pipe and spray that stuff in for 20 euros than remove the turbo.
Sometimes, you just get lucky...

RedR32 wrote:

Quote: has achieved the best results with it For the operation it is

essential.
Think carefully about what would allow the workshop to earn more money.

Quote:

No, to be honest, in order to achieve an effect on the metal, the chemical would have to be very aggressive. In that case, (with this cleaning method), the turbine blades, shafts, and bearings would also be damaged. No provider can afford to bear these damages. As I said - the action is pointless.

Who says that cleaning and lubricating a metal has to damage it?
And if you haven't personally tested this product, your text should contain more than just assumptions to justify your final statement.
Innotec has a reputation to uphold, and it wouldn't be able to survive in the market if the products it sells to industry didn't work.

Tagessuppe wrote:

Innotec has a reputation, and it wouldn't be able to survive in the market if the products it sells to industry didn't work.

Generally, a lot of things are sold, sometimes even products that only work due to the placebo effect.

Sure, it might work for some people and potentially bring about improvements, but that will usually remain an exception.

I haven't tested it myself yet, and I probably won't. However, if it only removes soot and carbon deposits, it's likely to have limited success when used.

Tagessuppe wrote:

And if you haven't personally tested this product, your text should contain more than just assumptions to justify your final statement.

I've disassembled quite a few VTG loaders, more than some others here, so I know the real cause.

RedR32 wrote:

The material choice for the exhaust housing is cheap.

The posts in the American forum (tdiclub) are written in a quite humorous way...

"Americans are truly ruthless. They're using 'EZ Off' heavy-duty oven cleaner to get the turbo engine sparkling clean. It seems to be working well, though." This stuff only costs $4.90.

Some people also wanted to use diluted phosphoric acid to remove rust, but rust was usually not a major issue.

What surprises me the most is that many of the users there have been driving around with completely dilapidated VTG (vintage tractors) for years, and then they are completely surprised by the improved performance after cleaning. They weren't just experiencing occasional emergency shutdowns; they essentially had no more boost pressure.

Phosphoric acid works well on rust.
This method can also be used to verschandeln up iron artifacts found in the ground.
I've also read about oven cleaners quite often, but apparently some of them don't work well with aluminum.

Kent - One Shot is supposedly quite good for dealing with carbon buildup.
I also have a can of that stuff at home and once I put an injector nozzle in a container filled with it for a quick test.
You could really see how the crust was flaking off.

I think it's probably just pure solvent, and it smells like Revell glue .