Neue Nockenwelle nach 450km Fressspuren | Posts 32+

Could it be that there's only a temporary lack of oil, especially at high engine speeds, perhaps due to a clogged oil intake snorkel in the oil pan?

Based on what I saw in the video about the oil on the camshaft, that's what I would have expected.

@Herbert: I was referring to a much too high tension on the timing belt. As the original poster writes, I trust that he knows how to handle the tensioner pulley.

Hello Rainer,
The oil pan has been removed several times. There are no traces on the oil pickup tube. It's as verschandeln as it was on the first day!

I removed the oil filter housing and took a picture of it.
Is there another way to test this, besides building a flange cover and applying air pressure to determine the opening pressure?

Also, everything seems normal here.

@Rainer Vielen Dank für deine Einschätzung zum Thema Zahnriemenspannung. DIt makes me happy.

Back to the posts. Did I perhaps miss something and fail to answer a question in my excitement? Are there any unanswered questions remaining? I'm having trouble keeping track of everything...

Hello,

I just happened to come across this post.

"My ARL engine from a Golf 4 (150 hp) had the same damage to the camshaft. I installed a camshaft kit from INA back then, and after just a few thousand kilometers, I had the exact same problem. In my case, two new hydraulic lifters were defective and were making a clicking noise (that's why I opened it up again)."

"In my case, the lower bearing shells were also copper-colored. Back then, I tried installing two of the best old hydraulic lifters and new bearing shells. After that, the problem was practically "ignored" because the knocking noise disappeared. Now, 60,000 km later, the wear hasn't changed much, except that one hydraulic lifter is now making noise again when the engine is cold."
It might not be ideal, but it keeps running, has power, and doesn't make any clicking noises once the oil pressure is established.

But what I'm actually trying to say is the following:
On the cylinder head of my engine, there was a screw at the rear that allows you to measure the oil pressure within the head. It's located on the right side of the cylinder head, approximately 5 cm from the right edge and about 1 cm from the edge of the cylinder head cover.

Definitely in that area.

Perhaps this information will be helpful again. In my case, the oil pressure was also okay. However, when the engine was really warm, the pressure was just slightly below 1 bar at idle (at the cylinder head), which is why I increased the idle speed a bit. This also helped because of the single-mass flywheel that was installed.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Vg leo" translates to "Best regards, Leo" in English.