Verzweiflungstat: Benzinerfrage | Posts 16+

Are you talking about the fuel pressure regulator?
This is a part that I haven't touched yet because the expert said it's not supposed to break, or it wouldn't work.
What kind of stuttering or lagging were you experiencing? If this thing costs less than 50-100 euros, I'll replace it immediately.

So, today I inquired about the cost of this membrane: 28€.
Is this normal, @roli?
I didn't order them yet; I wanted to take a look at the old one first. Unfortunately, I couldn't get it open because I don't have the 1.5 Torx bit, and I couldn't open it with any of my other tools either.
Then I sprayed the vacuum line to the brake servo -> nothing.
Recently, I damaged the right side mirror while reversing out of the garage.

Avenga wrote:

So, today I inquired about the cost of this membrane: 28€. is that normal?

Okay. So, I checked the Kadett first, without looking for a spare part. And that was fine.

Hi!
I'm writing to you again with some bad news:

-Ignition trigger checked: OK (New one costs 80€!)

- Fuel pressure regulator replaced, no difference.

- Control unit replaced, no difference.

- I just installed the DIS ignition module with the connector from a colleague, but there's no difference.

Okay, now only the ignition coil remains. Three people have already told me that it could be causing the misfire, for some reason. My voltage reading is above 14V when the engine is cold, but drops below 14V after driving for a long time. However, the voltage reading is also very sluggish, and I don't see any spikes or harmonics.
What I noticed was:
My old battery was pretty much at the end of its life. Then I went to Opel (during the fall break), and they definitely made a fuss during the compression test, suggesting they might be able to do even more. After that, the car ran surprisingly well for about a week, with good power and the voltage staying high. Then I installed the new battery, and from that point on, it was just jerky and unreliable.

I'm at a loss for what else to do. The ignition trigger can only either work or not work, right? Otherwise, it wouldn't know when to fire, and it simply wouldn't run. I don't want to waste 80 euros on something that won't do anything; I've already spent enough!
(Starter motor: €40, Adjust immobilizer: €18, Fuel pressure regulator: €30)
Oh yeah, you can't just disconnect the bra without any preparation, otherwise it might end up in a mess, right?
I mean disconnecting the cable.
Perhaps someone can explain this to me in more detail, specifically regarding the LiMa and whether that could be the issue!
Then I'll get the 70A one (I currently have the 55A one).
Best regards,

I moved that to a new thread within this thread because it belongs here.

Avenga wrote:

Hello, I've discovered something new, maybe someone can help me understand it. Here's the story: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=7768 And now, the continuation: In the meantime, I've been doing other things: "Ignition coil purchased for €1.50 and installed -> performance improved, the extreme jerking it sometimes had is gone." "I completely disassembled the entire fuel injection system, cleaned everything thoroughly, replaced both seals, and cleaned the idle control valve. Later, I bought a new one (because the idle would sometimes stay above 1000 RPM even when the engine was warm, and then, when I gave it gas, it would suddenly drop to 800 RPM)." Well, it didn't really achieve much. Overall, since then, I have NOT experienced the following: -It would stop working if I started driving in the morning when it was cold, and after about 1 kilometer, when I pressed the clutch, it was probably the LLR (likely referring to a sensor or module). - It seemed to be running on 3 cylinders when I started it cold, but then it would cut out after about 10 seconds or after one restart attempt, and then start again the next morning: also a positive sign. "At least it achieved something, but the LLR cost me 50 euros." "So, last night (after reading a lengthy thread on a Golf forum the night before, where someone was experiencing similar issues with their GTI and had replaced everything), I disconnected the knock sensor, i.e., the cable. I cleared the snow and drove, and it ran really well, just like I remember from my old Corsa A, no hesitation. Then I tested it when it was warm: first gear to 2000 RPM, then almost fully depress the clutch and accelerate in second gear -> just like the guy in the forum, no hesitation. I was really excited and repeated the test a few more times to confirm." Then, after a few kilometers, I did it again, and I noticed it felt like it did before, and it started shaking again when I did that. Then I turned the cart on and off again, because the yellow light takes a while to illuminate and for the system to detect that the sensor is disconnected. It worked fine again without any jerking, then it started jerking again. So, it had nothing to do with the light. Replacing the knock sensor probably won't fix the problem. Does it not use a default map or ignition timing when the sensor is disconnected? I don't understand it. This morning I went out on the cable again, but the ride was pretty bad. It felt really sluggish at the bottom, and it was also jerky after shifting. With the sensor reconnected, it's working again, but it's still glitching. What is that? Is it a coincidence that the knock sensor is triggering? Maybe someone still knows something.